Traditionally grown Yorkshire indoor rhubarb aims to be granted the same special protected status as that of Italy’s prosciutto and France’s champagne.

Twelve rhubarb growers, all in the traditional rhubarb-growing triangle bordered by Leeds, Bradford and Wakefield, have submitted an application for Protected Designation of Origin, along with the makers of Melton Mowbray pork pies, Cornish pasties and Cumberland sausages.

What does the ranking mean? Such status would protect and enforce the standards set by its members, and allow shoppers to differentiate the genuine article from impostors and imports. At present, we don’t know whether those long, lipstick-pink stalks in the shops from Christmas to Easter are from Wakefield or the Netherlands. But it means little unless the product is markedly superior to its rivals. And it is — it takes special skills to “force” the crisp-skinned stalks to grow in constant 13C (55F) temperatures by the light of candles.

Historically, the success of Wakefield rhubarb seems to have been a combination of the right variety of rhubarb (Siberian) meeting sulphurous soil at a time (late 18th century) when the wool industry could provide nitrogen-rich fertiliser, and when coal from the local pits could heat the forcing sheds.

Now, those industries have gone and globalisation means that we can buy sun-drenched pineapples, mangoes and passion fruit in the middle of winter. All the more reason to wish this treasure of the British food calendar success in its quest.

Ingredients

Prep: 15 min
Cook: 45 min

Serves 4

100g soft butter
100g caster sugar
2 large eggs
100g self-raising flour, sifted
500g ripe rhubarb stalks
100g extra caster sugar

METHOD: Heat oven to 180C/Gas 4. Beat the butter and caster sugar in a bowl until light and creamy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well.

Gently fold in the sifted flour until you have a batter of dropping consistency.

Cut the rhubarb stalks into 2cm lengths, discarding any leaves. Arrange loosely in a buttered one-litre pie or baking dish and scatter with the 100g extra caster sugar. Spoon the batter mixture on top of the fruit in clumps then smooth out the clumps to cover the rhubarb. Bake for 45 mins, or until the topping is golden and cakey. Serve with rich cream.

Forced rhubarb is available from E. Oldroyd & Sons (0113-2822245).

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