Wherever Iain Spink goes he attracts attention. The huge puffs of smoke billowing into the sky above his stall draw in the crowds like moths to a flame but he still can’t quite believe it. “I never fail to be amazed. When I go to shows and light my fire there can be a crowd of 50 or 60 people around me,” he says. Today, at St Andrews farmers’ market in Fife, a slightly smaller crowd is hanging around watching him work the smoking whisky casks and forking up the spoils – hot Arbroath smokies straight from the barrel.

Spink has introduced this little known delicacy from the North-East coast of Scotland to a whole new audience. He has been touring farmers’ markets and agricultural shows every weekend for the past five years making smokies using the same time-honoured methods as fishwives in the 1800s.

Haddock, and it has to be haddock to be a smokie, is gutted, headed and dry-salted before being tied in pairs at the tail and suspended over old oak whisky casks and covered with damp Hessian sacking. A fire of oak and beech logs lit inside the barrels smokes the fish for more or less 40 minutes depending on the dampness of the air.

After 30 years in the business Spink can tell when a fish is ready just by looking at it. Perfectly cooked it is golden metallic brown on the outside with pure, "creamy" white flesh on the inside. And the taste? “It is very delicate, moist, lightly salted, lightly smoked. Absolutely delicious,” he says.

The Arbroath smokie was awarded Protected Geographical Status – which decorates the likes of Champagne and Parma ham - by the European Commission in 2004. The humble smokie was elevated to the status of luxury food overnight amid a flurry of publicity. Now only haddock smoked using traditional methods within a five-mile radius of Arbroath can use the name.

“It really raised awareness. People at shows suddenly started recognising my product. They had seen it on TV or in the paper,” says Spink.

He is responsible for most of the rest of the attention. His customers recently nominated him as a UKTV food hero and he is up for a BBC food and farming award as food producer of the year. He has also come to the notice of chefs like Nick Nairn and Gary Rhodes who have been urging him to find a way of getting his smokies on to their customers’ plates barrel-fresh.

Despite the many options available to him Spink wants to keep his business small and personal. Smoking fish in front of his customers is what he’s all about. He is content to let other producers benefit from all the extra business he generates and keep things simple himself. “I’m demonstrating an old craft and at the end of it – massive bonus – you’ve got a healthy, fantastic thing to eat”.

Find the best places to buy smoked food in the UK


ORIGINAL SMOKIES FROM ARBROATH
I R Spink, Forehills Farmhouse, Carmyllie near Arbroath, Angus
(01241 860 303; www.arbroathsmokies.net)

Search out Iain Spink’s freshly hot smoked haddock and trout at farmers' markets, game fairs and agricultural shows around Fife and the rest of Scotland. Smoked mackerel and herring are also available in season. Currently no mail-order service. Check website for details of his appearances.

RR SPINK & SONS
Arbroath, Scotland (01241 872 023; www.rrspink.com)

The only supplier in the world where you can get authentic Arbroath smokies mail order. Among a fine selection of other produce is 18-hour smoked salmon and trout, hot smoked salmon slices crusted with pepper, mustard seeds and dill, maple syrup cured hot smoked trout, smoked mackerel and kippers. From upwards of £25 special packs with a selection of the range can be bought.

BROWN & FORREST
Langport, Somerset (01458 250 875; www.smokedeel.co.uk)

For 15 years husband and wife team Jesse and Charlie Pattisson have been hot smoking eel over an open beech-wood fire to a traditional German recipe. Over time their repertoire has increased to include venison, lamb, duck breast and sausages all smoked the same way. Award winning cold smoked salmon and trout and smoked mussels all come recommended. The restaurant serves succulent fish and meat straight off the fire with bread and salad, which is a big hit with locals.

COLFIN SMOKEHOUSE
Portpatrick, Stranraer (01776 820 622; www.colfinsmokehouse.co.uk)

Colfin’s award winning smoked salmon and trout are available to buy from the smokehouse shop or nationwide through a hamper service. Visitors are invited to watch meat and fish being brined in a mixture of salt water, brown sugar and dark rum before being smoked over sawdust made from old whiskey casks. Smoked mackerel, eel, haddock, mussels, tuna, chicken and kippers are also sold as well as fresh fish and shellfish in season.

HEBRIDEAN SMOKEHOUSE Ltd.
Clachan Locheport, Isle of North Uist
(01876 580 209; www.hebrideansmokehouse.com)

A family-run smokehouse taking advantage of its position on the shores of the North Atlantic to produce peat-smoked salmon, sea trout and scallops. Hot-smoked salmon is a recent addition to the range. Products can be ordered via online shop or over the telephone.

L. ROBSON & SONS Ltd
Craster, Northumberland (01665 576223; www.kipper.co.uk)

World renowned Craster Kippers are the speciality of this fourth-generation family-run fish smoking business. They are mackerel that have been cold-smoked above a smouldering fire of whitewood and oak shavings. The family also produce oak-smoked salmon, haddock and cod. All products available to buy online.

PORT OF LANCASTER SMOKEHOUSE
West Quay, Glasson Dock, Lancaster (01524 751493; www.polsco.co.uk)

Huge variety of high quality smoked goods available to buy either from their shop or online (they can deliver to Europe, too). Local River Lune wild smoked salmon and home-made gravadlax are recommended as well as more exotic delicacies such as smoked blue marlin and swordfish. Smoked meats include goose and pheasant breast, smoked black pudding, bacon and Cumberland sausages. Delicious Glasson’s pates such as smoked trout with horseradish are also a good bet.

BARKERS HIGHLAND BEEF
Mid Torrie Farm, Callander, Perthshire
(01877 330203; www.barkershighlandbeef.co.uk)

Among their selection of beef cuts from home-reared Highland cattle is smoked, thinly sliced topside of beef which comes ready to eat and is recommended as a starter. Available mail order.

THE OLD SMOKEHOUSE
Brougham Hall, Brougham, Penrith, Cumbria
(01768 867772; www.the-old-smokehouse.co.uk)

A selection of imaginative smoked products such as Thai-spiced hot- smoked salmon, smoked Cajun chicken fillet and juniper berry brined carpaccio of cold smoked beef complement classic offerings like smoked salmon. Other treats include cold-smoked venison, quail and pheasant and smoked pork and stilton sausages. Products are available at local farmers' markets, retailers and mail order.

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