In the late 1980s, half a million of us came to play here and almost universally loved it, but during the civil war, we shifted our allegiance to Spain, Greece and Turkey — even though most of Croatia was never touched by the conflict. Well, we’re finally back. About 170,000 British visitors are expected in 2004, and 24 holiday companies are featuring the country for the first time.

The smart set are already there in force. Steven Spielberg, Pierce Brosnan, Andre Agassi, Gywneth Paltrow and Sean Connery are all among the celebrity names to appear in the hotel visitor books. Some like the country so much they bought a piece: Robert De Niro, Clint Eastwood and Sharon Stone are each rumoured to be buying their own private island.

If you visited back in the 1980s, you’ll find Croatia largely unchanged. A few designer hotels have opened, welcome alternatives to the rather drab 1960s structures, but otherwise its glittering coast remains just as it was 20 years ago — and all the lovelier for that. And if you can’t afford to buy an island, don’t worry: you can certainly afford a holiday, because Croatia now offers perhaps the best value for money anywhere on the Med.

CROATIA FOR BEACHES

CROATIA HAS more than 1,000 miles of mainland littoral, as well as those 1,000 islands. The swimming is sparkling — 58 resorts fly Blue Flags — although the beaches tend to be narrow and pebbly.

TUCEPI

The 40-mile Makarska Riviera used to be the gold coast of Yugoslav tourism. Most of its resorts are not worth a look, but Tucepi is attractive, friendly and low-key, with a beach, a marina and a good hotel. The town of Makarska is within easy reach if you want some livelier evenings, while a ferry to the island of Brac makes split weeks an easy option.

Sample package: £425/£525, half-board, at the smart Laurentum, just back from the beach, including flights from Gatwick or Manchester (£15 extra) to Split, with Holiday Options (0870 420 8372, www.holidayoptions.co.uk). Or try Hidden Croatia (020 7736 6066, www.hiddencroatia.com).

BRELA

This is a cluster of gorgeous white-pebble beaches backed by a thick fringe of fragrant pines, with watersports on the main strand and a shaded coast path to some smaller, quieter neighbours. If you want to up the tempo at night, walk to next-door Baska Voda.

Sample package: £489/£539, half-board, at the Hotel Marina, right above the beach, including flights from Gatwick or Manchester to Split, with Bond Tours (01372 745300, www.bondtours.com). Or try Croatia for Travellers (020 7226 4460, www.croatiafortravellers.co.uk).

CAVTAT

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