USP A beautiful country retreat that's not isolated but in the heart of the old market town of Midhurst. Its aged oak-beamed interior with narrow creaking corridors and secluded reading nooks is stocked with suits of armour and tudor screens. The original part of the hotel, where Queen Elizabeth I once stayed, is banked with a flagstone-floored conservatory which leads to the spa.

AMBIENCE The spa, although small, thoughtfully maximises its use of space with vaulted ceilings and large sliding French windows. These open on to a garden. The spa has three treatment rooms, a barrelled hot tub, steam room, sauna, pool, small gym and changing rooms. My workout in the gym was a self-conscious one since a glass wall divides the entrance from the gym. The gym housed only six machines, one of which was dedicated to working a very small muscle in the middle of your back.

TREATMENT Elemis provide a signature touch to introduce each treatment - a hot foot rub using warm hand mitts. There is a wide choice of treatments available including an "absolute spa ritual" which is a total mind, body and soul massage; frangipani body nourish wrap; lime and ginger sat glow, a very relaxing yet rather superficial body scrub, tanning and wedding make-up. This treat involves the application of warm oils and a minty scrub after brushing and finishes with a moisturising lotion. Showering during treatments is in the changing rooms. It felt a little awkward staggering bleary eyed into a brightly lit, functional space shared by all spa users. My treatment room had tired decor and mismatched towels. The therapist I had was very knowledgeable about oils and their uses during treatment, and provided the most flattering black disposable knicks. At the end of my treatment I was brought abruptly round by icy water in a plastic disposable cup.

FOOD The restaurant is decorated with xmas puds in their pots tied with muslin, some of which are 70 years old. The French menu outlined familiar dishes such as chateau briand served with fresh, locally-grown vegetables and jelly and custard which was truly delicious. There was a fairly extensive wine list and service was very thoughtful. The vast Inglenook fireplace helps evoke the feel of the 16th-century creaky bar, one corner of which locks you into the inner most heart of old Midhurst town. The bar has a second entrance which is open to the public.

IN CROWD During my mid-week visit to the spa it seemed fairly quiet, visited only by a couple of membership gym goers and, in the early evening, by a small group attending an over-50s pilates class.

WALLET WATCH Treatments are reasonably priced: the back, neck and shoulder massage is £55 for 55 minutes. The "absolute spa ritual" is £99 for one hour and 55 minutes. I would go back for more treatments and recommend them to friends since there is a such a wide range available and it was quiet despite the slightly cramped conditions.

NEED TO KNOW The Spread Eagle Hotel and Health Spa, South Street, Midhurst, West Sussex, GU29 9NH (01730 816911; www.hshotels.co.uk)

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