Steve Hawkes, Retail Correspondent
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Primark, the cut-price fashion chain that has transformed Britain's high streets, said yesterday that it had been buying clothes from suppliers who use child labour. Primark said that it was dropping three Indian companies that make thousands of clothes for its stores after discovering they had sub-contracted work out to companies that, in some cases, used children for embroidery work.
George Weston, the chief executive of Associated British Foods, the parent company of Primark, said: “We are appalled, we feel let down and we are taking all the action we can to prevent this happening again.”
The move comes after an investigation by the BBC Panorama team whose findings are due to be broadcast next Monday.
Primark insisted that at no time was it aware that children were being used to finish the products, ranging from
T-shirts to skirts. It added that garments supplied by the companies involved accounted for only 0.04 per cent of the total amount it buys around the world. The items made by the companies, all based in Tamil Nadu, have been removed from the shops.
Primark claimed not to know the age of those children involved but journalists investigating the suppliers are believed to have found some as young as 11 working on the garments.
A spokesman for Primark said: “Work was being given out by unauthorised middlemen and that is enough for us to cease trading with these suppliers.”
Campaign groups rounded on Primark for dropping the suppliers rather than working with them to improve working conditions.
Martin Hearson, the campaign director of Labour behind the Label, said: “Cutting and running from suppliers following exposure by campaigners or the media only serves to punish those workers brave enough to speak out about their conditions. It certainly won't do anything to improve their lives. Such actions make Primark's ethical claims ring hollow.”
Founded in 1969 in Dublin, Primark is now, in volume terms, the second-biggest clothing retailer in Britain after Marks & Spencer, with nearly 170 stores. The popularity of value chains such as Primark and supermarket brands such as George at Asda meant that while the number of clothing items bought between 2001 and 2006 rose by 50 per cent, the amount spent rose by only 25 per cent.
Competition between retailers has put more pressure on buyers to cut costs among the supplier base.
Mr Hearson said: “It wouldn't be fair to say that clothes sold in Primark are made in any worse conditions that any others sold on the high street. However, Primark is driving a change in the industry that is putting ever more pressure on suppliers.”
A spokesman for Primark said: “Primark's prices are low because we don't overcharge our customers. Most of our clothes are bought from the same factories as other fashion retailers and people producing them are paid exactly the same whatever the label and whatever the price in the shop.”
Mr Weston said that Primark will appoint a non-government organisation in southern India to be its “eyes and ears on the ground”.
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I think that Child Labour should be banned and taken more seriously. Nothing has been done about the Primark incident and i think people should take action. Someone should start a petition or something because it is really becoming out of hand. I've been doing a speech on it for my HW.
Devina, London, England
At least the people at the manufacturing base were getting paid. Steven Prussia, a Fairtrade licensed and London based buyer, took possession of a whole consignment of clothing from a small cottage factory in Madagascar in 2006 and disappeared into thin air without paying the 250 poor workers!
Arlene, Cape Town,
Primark has essentially taken away a basic necessity such as food from thousands of indian families and children. If a family cannot meet its basic necessities of food, clothing , shelter what good is going to come out of educating children who may starve to death prior to their 14th birthdays?
VB, london, UK
I make sleepers in Canada with 100% Cotton French fabric which retail at $40 my neighbour makes them in China his retail $25. I pay 4 Euro/M & $18/hr. His fabric cost is about 1 Euro. White Collar middle class buy China. The blue-collar workers buy Canadian. The consumer is the problem & HYPOCRITES
Jason Pearson, Toronto, Canada
he dropping of three Indian Suppliers may not hit the beleagured firm. But is Primark acting ethically in this whole ethical episode by taking away the livelihood of hundreds of innocent workers through this one act of theirs? Dropping of hats will not resolve the problem, right?
Kalpana Muralidharan, Bangalore, India
Now i feel sorry for the indian people, i have visited and seen the slums in india, and the people are happy for the work in able to survive. Primark should NOT have run and dumped the suppliers, they should have workked with them. now Primark has taken the food out of the poor childrens mouth.
Martyn , Rotherham , Rotherham
What will become of those children and families now without that income? Where people live in extreme poverty it may be necessary for children to contribute to the family income. I think the welfare of the children should be monitored, working hours limited and an education provided by the employer.
Vicky, Bolton, England
At least India is a democracy and PRIMARK clothes are cheap...Marks and spencersuses china for almost all its clothing and bottles shampoo,allsorts..well you cant even film there...i have heard of TIBETAN PRISONERS forced to make goods in terrible conditions.. i am not saying in M and S outlets
JEAN, LONDON, England
All the big companies are playing the game, like Primark didn't know. "Ethics, of course I understand ethics, even a twelve year old child knows about ethics. Quick someone go out and find me a twelve year old child."
Graham, St. Albans, uk
Primark cannot think that by removing buisness from these factories that the issues are solved, obviously complex supply chains must be a result of lack of knowledge or accountabilty by primark themselves. All products should be made to the labour laws of the country supplying them at the very least
verity, manchester, uk
India is definitely one of the fast developing countries. But still a long way to go. Not employing child labour may make some families to starve. It could be a good idea to insist that such children should be provided with basic needs like education and time to play. We helped some to do that. Thx.
K.S. Rajamani, Chennai, India
Why not demand that India end child labor? It's now a wealthy nation, and as such should be shamed into abandoning it's exploitative cultural practices.
Jenny, Grand Rapids, MI US
Isn't ironic that the same family also owns Selfridges and Fortum and Mason.
Caroline , London,
Agreed. I've heard about this kind of thing before. If other companies were mentioned in the doc, they might have put pressure on Channel 4 and threatened to stop placing ads. It shows a complete lack of bottle by Channel 4. They should trust the journalists or not have made it at all.
Graham, Bath, UK
What happened to that program that Channel 4 made a few weeks ago called "the devil wears primark"....was this anything to do with Primark publisising the issue? - the show was mysteriously not shown despite a huge advertising campagne on channel four about it.
Chris, Bristol,