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The sheiks who rule the UAE beam with pride at the very mention of the Burj Dubai. Towering above the hot and hazy desert, this as-yet-unfinished 2,000-plus feet of steel and glass recently became the world's tallest man-made structure. For the Emiratis, the building, not to mention the rest of the topsy-turvy skyline, is exhibit one in their contention that Dubai is the most modern and dynamic conurbation on the planet.
But those who are actually getting their hands dirty building the sky-scraper — hundreds of thousands of labourers imported from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and the Philippines — may tell a different story. That is, if they could speak freely about their experiences.
One of the most difficult ironies of the Dubai success story is that the multi-star resorts, huge shopping malls and gleaming office towers are built on the backs of workers toiling under what human rights organisations have described as little better than slavery. Thousands of skilled and unskilled workers are disgorged into the region every month, having been recruited by agencies on the promise of wage packets that, while ridiculously low by western standards, considerably outstrip earnings in their home countries.
The problems begin not long after those immigrants pass through the airport. They say their passports are confiscated so that they cannot return home without their employer's permission; their wages are docked to pay agency commissions. Living conditions are uncomfortable at best, labourers shoehorned in seven or eight to a room. A cramped and tedious bus journey takes them to building sites where they work 12-hour days in searing heat that can reach 50 degrees Celsius.
There has been some progress, thanks to a combination of a series of labour strikes and the sharpening glare of the international media. In Dubai, the Government last year imposed a "midday break" rule on construction companies, requiring them to allow workers to down tools and seek shade for a few hours a day during the three most brutal summer months. An amnesty was announced for overstayers, who were even flown home at the UAE's expense with no questions asked; the scheme was flooded with applicants.
The Dubai police force recently launched a human rights department, primarily aimed at protecting the position of foreign labourers and those caught in the country's burgeoning sex trade. Anwar Mohammed Gargash, the UAE's minister for federal national council affairs, has said the Government is dedicated to "streamlining our laws and practices in line with our cultural heritage and religious values, which enshrine justice, quality and tolerance".
But there are still problems throughout the region. The position regarding women's rights, sexual orientation, freedom of speech and the treatment of those charged with criminal offences is increasingly falling under the spotlight. The reality is, despite the financial and commercial advances, Kuwait is the only Gulf state with a fully democratically-elected government — indeed, both men and women there are given a vote.
The position of women in the region is a complicated mix of reverence, protection and, in many cases, subservience. On one hand, the UAE recently appointed a woman to its governing cabinet for the first time. But parochialism persists, with men allowed more than one wife. In Saudi Arabia, women are forbidden from driving because doing so could expose them to men to whom they are not related. Non-Muslim women convicted of consorting with men who are not related, regardless of the circumstances, are routinely lashed.
Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch both claim the death penalty is routinely used in the UAE and Saudi Arabia, away of the glare of international eyes. According to Amnesty, court proceedings in Saudi Arabia fall short of the international standards for a fair trial: defendants do not have the right to formal representation by a lawyer and in many cases are not informed of the progress of proceedings against them.
Geoffrey Bindman, the English solicitor and human rights campaigner, is acting for two Britons and a Canadian who are suing the kingdom for allegedly falsely accusing them of murder and torturing them. "The general position regarding human rights in the region is dreadful," Bindman says. "In relation to the Saudis, we were met with nothing but obstruction and hypocrisy at every turn."
Professional bodies are also cautious about the region. The International Bar Association has just opened a Middle East base in Dubai. Its executive director Mark Ellis is clear on the human rights position. "The Gulf region has no choice but to embrace and expand protections for human rights," he says. "International investors . . . will come under increasingly heavy criticism if human rights norms are ignored or minimised. Gulf states cannot afford this."
The Law Society of England and Wales also has concerns. Alison Hook, head of the society's international department, says: "While there has been significant progress in countries such as Oman and the UAE over recent years, there remain significant human rights issues that must be addressed by the region's leaders.”
Hook argues that the region needs an independent body of lawyers to protect and represent individuals against the state and to promote improvement in human rights, access to justice and due process. Currently, despite the hordes of legal practitioners pouring into the region from the UK, US and Europe, no such body exists at a meaningful level in any of the main Gulf jurisdictions. Some suggest that the arrival of the IBA, which has a strong record on campaigning for human rights, could provide the impetus.
International lawyers should bear in mind that business is enhanced, not hindered, by a positive human rights environment, and they are crucial to both.
Jonathan Ames is the editor of The Brief, a monthly legal magazine based in Dubai
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