Ben Macintyre
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In the foetid depths of the Burmese jungle, on the road to Mandalay, slave labourers toil to build a glinting new metropolis for their military overlords. This is Naypyitaw, “Seat of Kings”, the new capital city decreed by Burma’s brutal junta, and the latest (and oddest) example of autocracy as architecture.
This week foreign journalists got their first glimpse of the new city, some 300 miles north of Rangoon, a strange, gleaming confection of official hotels, ministries and government housing. To the east stands the new fortress that is home to Burma’s supreme military commander, the reclusive General Than Shwe.
Naypyitaw is intended to project power and control, but the absurd new city in the malarial jungle speaks more of paranoia and megalomania. The new metropolis may even bring a little hope to the oppressed people of Burma, for in the long and tasteless history of totalitarian architecture the most extravagant building works are often the precursor to a regime’s collapse.
Tyrants have always built big and gaudy. The dictator awards himself a new city, a palace, a monument in stone, intended to intimidate and impress. He imagines, like Shelley’s Ozymandias, “King of Kings”, that his great statue will confer immortality, but it crumbles to dust, a warning of the transience of power: “Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair.” Just about every despot has had an “Edifice Complex”, as Deyan Sudjic, the architecture writer, entitled his recent book about the relationship between wealth, power and architecture.
Hitler, Stalin, Mao, Mussolini and Saddam all imagined vast cities constructed in their own honour. Stalin’s Palace of the Soviets was to be higher than the Empire State Building. Hitler’s Reich Chancellery was a deliberately theatrical statement, with towering brass doors 17ft high and the Föhrer’s 4,000 sq ft “study”.
In 1984, written in 1948, George Orwell left a prescient description of the sort of totalitarian architecture that would soon dominate the Communist bloc, imposing and hideous: the Ministry of Truth, an “enormous, pyramidal structure of white concrete, soaring up terrace after terrace, three hundred metres into the air . . .” Saddam put his heart into his architecture. Or rather his arms, which were cast in bronze (in Basingstoke), and then formed into a huge arch holding two scimitars aloft. Today, in Basra, British soldiers eat their lunch in the colossal hall of one of Saddam’s 32 palaces.
Saparmurat Niyazov, the grotesque dictator of Turkmenistan, dubbed himself the Great Turkmenbashi, “Father of all Turkmens”, renamed the month of January after himself (and April after his mum), and built a new capital from white Italian and Turkish marble on the edge of Kakarum desert. The dictator died last December. His huge gold statue still stands in the city square, automatically rotating its face to the sun; but probably not for much longer, for the sun has already set on the city Turkmenbashi built.
The moment of greatest architectural extravagance seems often to presage the waning of power. Sir Edwin Lutyens completed his redesign of New Delhi in 1931, a magnificent modern imperial capital intended to last for ever. The bells carved into the pillars of the Viceroy’s Palace were silent as an indication that they would never ring to signal the end of empire. The British left just 16 years later.
In the same way, it has been shown that large corporations often disintegrate most rapidly after building large and impressive new headquarters: a company that spends its cash and time on self-aggrandising buildings may already have lost the edge.
Up until the end, Hitler was still planning his Germania, Albert Speer’s Brobdingnagian vision of a new Rome for the 1,000-year Reich: avenues wide enough for 90 stormtroopers to goosestep abreast, a triumphal arch to dwarf that of Napoleon, a dome nine times larger than St Peter’s. One of the most telling scenes in Downfall, the remarkable film of Hitler’s last days, depicts the Föhrer in his bunker, madly enthusing over a scale-model of Germania as the bombs fall.
Hitler once studied to be an architect. So did Mohammed Atta, the mastermind of the World Trade Centre attacks. The Great Turkmenbashi was a town planner before taking power. Three monsters of destruction, each fascinated by the symbolism of architectural power.
Men build great palaces to show they are strong, or defy the world, or prove their worth to themselves. Or to hide. Work continues today on Robert Mugabe’s $5 million retirement palace in an exclusive Harare suburb, a sort of African-Chinese pagoda covered in expensive and ugly blue tiles.
Almost all significant architecture is about the projection of power: the pyramids, the Taj Mahal and Hamilton Palace, the unfinished £40 million mansion being constructed by the property tycoon Nicholas van Hoogstraten. Unveiling plans for the Millennium Dome, his own Great Work, Tony Blair declared: “It will be the envy of the world.” A billion pounds later, it stands empty, a monument to Mr Blair, but not quite in the way he intended.
Above all, architecture is a political art. Few regimes can resist the temptation to flatter themselves in stone, brick or bronze. Yet the architecture of repression holds a particular place in cultural history, for it seldom endures: undermined by hubris, held together by the ego of one individual, the new cities and grand palaces of the dictator tend to decay swiftly, like the gilt peeling off Saddam’s bathroom taps.
Brasilia was built in 1965 to forge a new identity for Brazil, but Burma’s new capital is very different: a place for the junta to seal itself away from the people, a fortress inside a fortress. In the Burmese jungle a new city rises: Naypyitaw, Seat of Kings, refuge of the paranoid, mausoleum of military dictators.

Ben Macintyre is Writer at Large for The Times and contributes a regular Friday column. His earlier roles at The Times include being editor of the Weekend Review, parliamentary sketchwriter and bureau chief in Washington and Paris. He has also published a number of historical non-fiction books
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Tom Dyckhoff
From my roof terrrace in Bonnington Square SW8 I can see towering above the chimney pots the green-winged tips of St Georges Wharf. Bling brutalism, Miami style luxury and hideous are not words that spring to mind. To me it's simply beautiful. . Whenever crossing the unlovely Vauxhall Bridge and St Georges Wharf's chipped-ice contours come into view, it seems to transfer the whole cityscape in that area from solid and stoical heaviness to a vista of shimmering glaciers, sheer white cliffs and mythical winged creatures soaring through the skies.
I feel honoured to have this building so close that I can see it every day. The people who live there must feel distressed and miserable to have read Tom's article. I hope they have the strength to ignore it and continue living and loving the chance to live what must be one of the most architecturally innovative buildings in the whole of London.
Mandy Privett, London, Englan d
Wouldn't the Millenium Dome make a lovely shelter for the homeless? Certainly the Sally Ann could do with a new facility besides the one near Royal Eye.
Walt O'Brien, Binghamton, NY USA
The truth is obvious when it is pointed out to you, but how do you recognise great civilisations, except for the legarcy left behind them.
Harry Smith, Galashiels, Scotland
Dear Sirs:
As Britain contemplates how to handle the situation caused by the abduction of its sailors and marines by the Iranians, it should consider how the Americans handled the seizure of its embassy and 52 diplomatic personell by the Iranians. Almost 30 years, the ineptitude of America's President Jimmy Carter allowed our diplomats to languish for 444 days. Bullies like the president of Iran understand only one thing: the decisive use of force. I hope your Prime Minister handles this situation better than our President did.
Michael T. Merrion, Atlanta, Georgia, USA
Speaking of Burma, did anyone ever figure out how many people died from the Tsunami there a few years ago.?Strange that we never heard anything about them.
sc, Atlanta, USA
on the iran case
please can't people in england broadcast there emails to iran to say, we are 100% behind the captives and believe it was an inoccent mistake and that they should be released now, and that they have been held far to long, and that no matter how many broadcast iran put on tv will not excuse the fact they we are not at war with them and that those people just want to go home to there family;s and you are holding them beyond there will, and the will of the person you worship. cause which ever god u worship the meaning, the same do unto others as u would do to you. i don't believe in god in any christian or catholic church or muslim but i do believe in witch craft and what do they teach you. what you give, you recieve. that's good magic. black magic is hurt and will be hurt. so iran go on hurt our people and see what god and karma will rain back on you??
DIANE REYNOLDS, SPALDING, LINCS
and there was i thinking the taj mahal was built for love
fred, london,
Mike, from London, has a good point, one worth mulling over.
Anyway, tyrants do like their goofy physical monuments, goose-stepping masses of soldiers, banners proclaiming the people's undying love for them, and crowds of little uniformed children bearing flowers for their Beloved Leaders. Sad, really sad. And it just gets worse shortly before the tryants are dumped into the dustbin of history.
Let's hope the the few remaining such crack-pots are dumped before they do too much more damage to their own people.
James, Jacksonville, Illinois U. S.
A very good article, well written except for the reference to the Foehrer - I think Mr McIntyre meant Fuehrer? I expect faultless grammar from The Times and at least a basic knowledge of European Languages. If in doubt ask, don't guess.
Dorothy della Porta, Warwick,
I was told that Orwell fashioned his Ministry of Truth- the " enormous, pyramidal structure of white concrete, soaring up terrace after terrace, three hundred metres into the air . . . " upon Senate House- the University of London's library building (situated between Malet Street and Russell Square in Bloomsbury)..... the physical description certainly matches. Perhaps London University is truly evil, too.... I think we should be told!
A. Jones, Brussels, Belgium
Three years ago I worked with an NGO which was helping the indigenous peoples of Burma/Myanmar to survive. This is a junta which has been built on rape, murder, pillaging, theft and land reclamation, displacing populations and generally destroying what was once a wonderful country.
Ben Macintyre is right. However, what will anyone do when this powercrazed and brutal regime crumbles?
As anyone who knows about Burma, the house arrest of Aung San Suu Kyi is the tip of the political iceberg. Burma is made up of many ethnic groups who all have their issues with the country. Whoever has the task of rebuilding this ravaged country will need to negotiate more than than the social and economic disaster that the junta has created.
Frances Roberson, Croydon, UK
It's great. Now, if we decided to make the world a better place we only have to drop one bomb and no great architectural treasures will be lost. It's practically an invitation.
Miike, London,
Brasilia, with all the mysticism that surrounds it, was suppose to be the pride of a new, beautiful, modern and strong country, home to a free, rich and democratic people. Today Brasilia is a decaying place with monumental buildings falling in disrepair and in reality, is no more then a place from where corrupt and incompetent politicians lie and steal, to and from, their own people. What a shame.
Fabio C, London,
Its all very well to be patronising, but you are conveniently overlooking Henry VIIs chapel, which in its day was exceptional. Then there is the new Palace of Westminster and Trafalgar Square. This representative building is pretty universal but different regimes have their different styles. The American, for example, is particularly conspicuous - Washington DC alone - but we dont necessarily see it in the focus you are using here. And then there is Versailles and post revolutionary Paris. The French are particularly keen on their representative architecture. The big mistake is to tear down regime buildings in a fit of reaction - unless they really are ugly or badly designed.
Henry Percy, London, UK
Conversely, many architects seem to be wannabe dictators. Just look at the grandiosity and arrogance they exhibit when they are allowed to express themselves.
Frank Upton, Solihull,
Correct me if I am wrong, but was it not the Conservative Government immediately prior to Blair's Government that planned, and set in stone the building of the Dome. Labour inherited a white elephant they could not simply destroy.
Though saddled with this, they did make some unexplainable errors in the content and future of the Dome.
Michael Holloway, Sydney, Australia/ NSW
This article is a great example of why I love to read the Times. And I say this without a trace of irony despite the fact that I live in Canberra [ which is coming on quite nicely, thank you ]
James , Canberra, Australia.