Ben Macintyre
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And so Richard Elloway set off from Land's End, armed only with his national bus pass, a comfy fleece and plenty of timetables. On one local bus after another, he slowly trundled his way up Britain. At moments, the explorer's spirit quailed: he was horribly stranded in Tiverton, after missing the last bus to Wellington. The natives of Lincoln were restless, and rather noisy. And yet he never lost hope, or belief in his quest.
After eight days. 1,133 miles and 40 buses, Mr Elloway finally reached John o' Groats, having become the first person in history to get from one end of this country to the other by travelling entirely on local buses, for free.
Why? Why would a retired teacher of 61 leave home and hearth to hack his way through the forbidding jungle that is the British bus system? For the same reason that British men and women have always plunged into uncharted and unlikely territory: because it's there.
I found myself moved and uplifted by Mr Elloway's epic journey. His slow omnibus odyssey was somehow reminiscent of Dr Livingstone, riding his ox through the wilderness wearing that bus conductor's cap. Livingstone was the first European to see Victoria Falls; Mr Elloway enjoyed “getting off the bus and finding people's accent had changed”. They would have recognised one other as kindred spirits.
No other people on Earth do things like this. The round-Britain windsurfer, the naked hiker, the Munro-bagger, the explorer attempting to spend a night on every Hebridean island, the man who rowed his antique Thomas Crapper bath across the Channel: these are a strictly British species. The “because-it's-there gene” is hardwired into the national DNA, alongside the genes for collecting and cataloguing: this is where the spirit of Captain Scott meets the quiet obsession of the trainspotter.
None but a Briton would set out to conquer the bus system in this way, because none but a Briton would feel impelled to try. Every country has its explorers, but no other country, I believe, is almost entirely composed of secret explorers, each just waiting for the right challenge, however small, however eccentric.
I know a man who, as a student, travelled on every bus route in Birmingham. Anyone who has successfully scaled a personal summit would recognise his description of the elation, and the gentle disappointment, when he got off the last bus, on the very last route.
Success is not a necessary part of the great British quest. Indeed, we love heroic failure more: Mark Boyle, who recently set off on a two-year mission to walk to India without money, but only got as far as Calais; James Cracknell, the Olympic rower who sank two minutes after starting a 1,400-mile journey to North Africa; Captain Scott writing with frozen fingers: “We are in a very tight corner, and I have doubts of pulling through.”
The modern quest-seeker is often a charity fundraiser, a record chaser or a self-publicist, but some of the most extraordinary explorers have been private people, driven only by a particular interest and peculiarly British sort of madness.
At the start of the 19th century, the Rev Joseph Wolff, one of the oddest explorers this country has ever produced, announced that he was heading into the wilds of Central Asia to find the Lost Tribes of Israel. For many years, dressed in full canonical garb, he harangued Afghans, Sikhs, Turks, Indians and Uzbeks, trying, and failing, to convince them of the superiority of the Anglican faith. Many of his hearers did not take kindly to this. Wolff was beaten, stripped, threatened with death in a variety of complicated ways and thrown into a bug pit by the Emir of Bokhara. After completing his travels, he retired to a vicarage in Somerset and never did anything remotely interesting again.
With so much of the world already discovered, mapped and accessible via Google Earth, the “it” in “because it's there” has changed dramatically over the past 50 years. It may still be Everest, though the mountain is now horribly crowded, but it may also be a trans-island bus journey, or the Pennine Way, or the marathon, or even simply following a single sports team to every fixture.
This longing for a personal quest, embedded in the British soul, is partly cultural, a remnant from the days of empire when great swaths of the world remained mysterious, awaiting only an Englishman in a pith helmet to be “discovered”. Alongside the names of Livingstone, Speke or Thesiger, came hundreds of unknown, middle-class British explorers: missionaries, scientists, soldiers, but also many who were simply up for a challenge.
When George Leigh-Mallory declared “Because it's there!” in response to the question he had been asked so many times before, he was not intending to frame some profound truth, but stating the blindingly obvious. Everest may be a larger challenge than most, but to Mallory it was only logical that if there was a big mountain, a British mountaineer would want to climb it.
The British urge to get away and achieve some self-made mission is, of course, mirrored by the desire to come home: in the words of T.S. Eliot “to arrive where we started, and know the place for the first time”. Ernest Shackleton wrote that “no one who has not spent a period of his life in those stark and sullen solitudes of that sentinel the Pole will understand fully what trees and flowers, sun-flecked turf and running streams mean to the soul of man”.
After his solo odyssey through countless sullen bus stations, Mr Elloway must have felt the same. Why would a lone pensioner test the limits of human endurance by bus? Because it's there. Except when it's late.

Ben Macintyre is Writer at Large for The Times and contributes a regular Friday column. His earlier roles at The Times include being editor of the Weekend Review, parliamentary sketchwriter and bureau chief in Washington and Paris. He has also published a number of historical non-fiction books
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Once me and 3 of my friends embarked on one of these kind of eccentric journeys. We had a 'media' day at school which basically conisisted of being given a camera for a day and free reign over what to film. We didn't have any good ideas at all, so we decided to film ourselve on a long walk. We decided to walk from Harpenden in Hertfordshire to Windsor, using a road map and a compass. We woke up early and walked, in normal daiily attire, the entire day up to 11.30ish at night. We travelled through countless villages and fields along the way and enjoyed every minute of it. Sadly we only made it just outside Windsor, on the outskirts of Slough. We walked about 30 - 40 miles due to the roundabout route we took and saw loads of different villages. Brilliant fun, but we all had very sore legs the next day.
Ross , Harpenden,
Apparently this British tendency has rubbed off somewhat on Americans. There are many here who attempt such personal quests. One favorite is to hike the entire Appalacian Trail, a 2,100-odd-mile pathway from Georgia to New Hampshire. Each year several thousand set out to do it. A couple hundred succeed. Some who are unable to take off the several months required for this feat all at one go do it in sections over a period of years.
D.L. Anderson, Crossett, AR/U.S.A.
Brilliant article. This has made my day!
Stuart, Leicester,
Bob from Reading: the occasional mean-spirited pernicketiness is also a peculiarly English trait, wouldn't you agree?
Seb Carroll, Leeds,
"None but a Briton would set out to conquer the bus system in this way, because none but a Briton would feel impelled to try."
Nonsense. When I lived in Japan I had an American friend who travelled from the top of Hokkaido to the bottom of Kyushu in Japan all the way by local train. There was also a Japanese buy who cycled the same journey. And as for Munro-baggers, there are countless Japanese who spend their lives climbing all the "100 famous mountains" of Japan, or walking the 88 Temples. I'm sure you can find these characters in every country - it's not exclusively British at all.
Richard Holmes, Stourbridge,
A great individual effort, and very enterprising of Mr Elloway to to make such an imaginative, constructive and systematic abuse of taxpayers' money. When I look at the massive deductions on my payslip each month, the bitterness I feel at having the money I could put to such good use confiscated from me and sprayed around such meretricious and vote-buying tricks from New Labour will remind me just how much we need to send them packing at the earliest opportunity.
Jacques Francis, Westcott,
Would it not have been better for the government to have simply avoided the destruction of pension provision so that the elderly could, on becoming too uncertain to drive themselves, afford to pay for their own bus travel?
Odd though it may seem, offering "free" travel to a group of people who have few spcific tasks on which to spend their time may simply encourage unnecessary journeys of this kind, to the detriment of the environment and the taxpayer who is merrily picking up the tab.
Few people would spend their own money on such an ultimately pointless journey, why should this man be applauded for spending our money on it?
I suppose we should just be grateful that the government didn't introduce a means tested tax credit scheme allowing pensioners to reduce the tax deducted from their pension income by the value of their bus travel.
Bob, Reading,
Interesting! This could never happen in America because our bus service (and train service) is terrible, and in many areas non-existant.
Ed, Pottsville, Pa. USA
I'm sure that your colleague, Jeremy Clarkson, could turn this into a great TV programme/series. How about it, Jeremy?
Bill Peter, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
When I was at school in north-west London, in the sixties, a popular venture was to try to visit or pass through every station in the London Underground system (by train of course) in the minimum time.
Martin, Newmarket, Suffolk
Well done to the fella.
I 100% behind free local travel for pensioners. But this is a step too far - it costs an extra billion.
Glad I read this article as it explains why recently I've seen alot elderly non-londoners on buses in central london - seeing the sights. They are busy enough and this travel is not essential.
Its unfair - as I guess many will come to London to see the sights saving their £3.50. But few will go the other way.
The only way this scheme makes sense is for the people who live on boundary of two bus areas - say on the outskirts of large cities.
I'm happy to pay for free Local travel but not this..
Terry, london,
Just one thing missing. Ben McIntyre's eccentricities.
I think it is rubbing it in . We have been given a priceless concession, and people rush off to exploit it to the limit.
This is the age of excess no point climbing Everest unless you do it carrying a bicycle and whistling Dixie.
As for myself I started in a modest way and steadily worked my way up. When I was 6 my mother entrusted me to an older boy who took me off on many adventures culminating when we got stuck between to bridges in a narrow space overlooking a raging river. he panicked, and I never told my mother. In the last 15 years I have traversed the globe at least 10 times, and visited 80 countries. I must confess to cadging free travel in HongKong and travelling all round Sydney, and San Francisco,but I did pay for the passes. I just got the utmost out of them . Travel to the end of Sydneys underground and you are in the wild bush surrounded by miles of forest. Well worth it.
ged, manchester,
How did he get his "free" bus pass in Scotland? I thought the new free passes were just confined to England.
M. Grant, London, UK
Hmmm. Eight days "armed only with a comfy fleece" etc. What - no toothbrush and pyjamas, no change of "smalls"? Where did he sleep? Surely not on all night buses. There's more to this and I think we should be told.
Well done, anyway.
P. M. Shaw, Farnham, Surrey