Caitlin Moran
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A recent survey, by the hitherto unheard-of company “Comfy Quilts”, has identified the most loathed kitchen gadgets. Although beating off stiff competition from the waffle iron, at the end of the day, it was the electric can-opener that carried off the prize. Although the survey didn’t explain just why their surveyees had nominated any particular item – perhaps, one suspects, because Comfy Quilts’ corporate reservoir of imagination ran dry on the day it decided to call itself Comfy Quilts, instead of Fatal Quilts – I think we all know why.
It’s because the electric can-opener is the most loathsome kitchen gadget. That’s just a fact. Watching one in action – a lopsidedly clamped tin being sporadically punctured by something that operates with effortful whirring – is a grievously vexatious act. No one can witness a can-opener in slow, wonky action without murderous black fury raging in their impatient heart. To be near an operating electric can-opener is to clench your fists, grind your teeth and imagine how much quicker and easier it would be to grab the can, scream and smite its top section off with an axe.
While, obviously, pleased that the provoking nature of waffle irons and electric can-openers are finally making the international news agenda, I can’t help but feel ultimately disappointed by how cursory Comfy Quilts’ investigation has been. Electric can-openers? Is that it? You’re going to leave it there? What about the other 9,000 wholly loathsome kitchen gadgets, which, even as we speak, are pointlessly filling people’s kitchens and making their lives almost inexpressibly worse?
Even now, just thinking of them makes my blood pressure rise. So many things have been unnecessarily invented. The electric popcorn-maker? You could just USE A PAN WITH A LID! Breville Rice Cooker? USE A PAN WITH A LID! Micromark Ome-lette Express? USE A PAN – WITHOUT A LID! Electric bread-maker? USE THE OVEN! Brita Aqua Filter Water Cooler? USE THE TAP! The Smoothie Maker? Ggnkkkk! Gnaghk! Gnar!
The Smoothie Maker, to be honest, I consider to be the last straw. A Smoothie Maker is just a blender – IT’S JUST A BLENDER! – but with a tap on the bottom. A small, useless tap which will, on the first day of use, become clogged by a single strawberry seed, leaving you flossing the tiny nozzle with a pin until 4am, weeping. A Smoothie Maker basically marks the UNINVENTING of the blender. It is a negation of progress. It’s like having sex with monkeys. It will do humankind no good.
Of course, a kitchen gadget doesn’t need to be £29.99 and electrical to be useless and hateful. As any long-term habitué of car-boot sales will tell you, ever since mankind became the master of smelting, he has made baffling, essentially useless metallic kitchen gadgets. The Victorians were frankly deranged by the possibility of filling the average kitchen drawer with culinary knickknackery. And do you know which foodstuff most regularly inspired their inventions? The egg. The egg, it seems, inspires some manner of jealousy in the heart of Man. We look upon its perfect packaging and serene ovoid form – a masterclass in engineering and design – and wish, in some way, to interfere with it. Improve it. Become the master of the egg.
And so, over the millennia, it is egg-taming, egg-primping and egg-torturing implements that have cluttered the kitchen drawer. I have “egg baths”, “egg rings”, “egg-yolk keepers”, and at least half-a-dozen egg poachers of varying construct, methodology and insanity. My favourite item – now, sadly, lost – was a pair of “boiled egg scissors” which promised the ability to: “Cut a hard-boiled egg. . . like scissors.” This is perhaps second only, in terms of special powers, to being able to climb buildings and ejaculate wrist-web.
Of course, there is only one place where an unhealthy fascination with kitchen ephemera will lead you – and that is the Lakeland catalogue. Ah, the Lakeland catalogue. For anyone enthralled by culinary tat, it exudes the same inescapable allure that the assassination of JFK offers the paranoid. It is at Lakeland that mankind’s destructive jealousy towards the perfection of the egg reaches its apogee. Only Lakeland vends Cracking Eggs – a curious plastic jaw that promises to “crack eggs perfectly every time!”, the Egg Separator, the Egg Slicer – JUST USE A KNIFE! – and the threatening Egg Piercer. On the online version, every entry is accompanied by a one-click option to “Tell a friend!”.
However useless and borderline terrifying these items might be, however, none of them inspires in me the fury of something seemingly both innocuous and ostensibly useful. Since the age of 11, I have been convinced of the parasitic malignancy of the oven glove. Grrrrrk, oven glove! If you use an oven glove, I judge you, in the same way that other people make judgments about 4x4 drivers, or Nazis. Why would any right-thinking person have an oven glove? An oven glove is an abomination on the face of the earth – like the fat, overpampered cat of the kitchen. If you want to get something hot out of the oven, you should use a folded tea-towel. That’s what Indiana Jones would do, if his casserole was on the verge of catching.
The idea of fussing around in a drawer for a special glove is the act of a nervous, niminy-piminy bachelor like Timothy Lumsden in Sorry, and that counts for the ladies, too. Oven gloves are leeching off us. Oven gloves are taking us all for a ride. Oven gloves are laughing at us.
That the Lakeland catalogue has seven different types – including a “Revolutionary Gauntlet” – doesn’t surprise me at all.
Smile and smile, and be a TV villain
The latest thing in Japan is a “smile consultant”. Smile schools are teaching people to maximise their smiles. But is that really so great? Everyone presumes that a smile is a pleasing and reassuring thing but, some of the times in my life I’ve felt most terrified have involved someone smiling – often people on the telly. In fact, here’s my top five most terrifying Light Entertainment smiles:
5) Vernon Kay: dingdong, you could hammer on Kay’s face like it’s a big front door – it’s as if his brain can’t answer. You can imagine him beaming as he presses the Total Nuclear Destruction button: “Because it’s red, an’ red’s my favourite colour.”
4) Jimmy Carr: a smile of such supernatural smugness that it might cover him in an impenetrable sheath of self-satisfaction, making him the only living thing left on Earth after Vernon Kay’s fatal big mistake.
3) Eamonn Holmes: looks like the giant at the top of the beanstalk. Smiles at people like they’re tasty, and he might cover them in gravy and eat them.
2) Davina McCall: the desperate, deranged smile of a good person who knows that her career can now be calculated in seconds.
1) Bruce Forsyth: the smile of a man who stopped wanting to talk to anyone except his golf instructor years ago.
Flaming luxury
The recent fires in California are notable for one thing: they have been the most luxurious disaster in modern history. Evacuated into the Qualcomm Stadium, residents received so many donations that officials had to request people to stop bringing stuff. There were masseurs and acupuncturists and live bands playing West Coast rock. California’s interior designers and stylists chipped in, too – one shot shows a bed covered in a Quaker patchwork quilt, accessorised with an ornate French birdcage, and what looks like a Diptyque candle.
Caitlin Moran was a published author at the age of 16 and went on to be one of the new wave of music journalists at Melody Maker in the mid-1990s. She has been writing for The Times since 1992, mainly on popular culture
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Clearly you have not seen the Breville Hot Dog Maker.
Sorry but it blows all the other entries out of the water! Do you have them in UK or is it just for us simple folk down under?
It features a bun warmer - yes! And a place to boil the sausages - coz evidently a pot won't do!
Utterly useless space taker upper!
Deb, Perth, Australia
Thick oven gloves cannot compare with towels. I've never tried the silicone ones, so I don't know about that. I keep my oven glove right beside the stove. The last thing I want when the timer is beeping is to look thorugh the drawers.
Guest, Somewhere,
Sir,
The fact that Liam Byrne was making an âimport telephone callâ should be an exacerbating factor, not a mitigating factor, as presumably his mind was fully engaged on the deporation, rather than the road.
His endorsement and fine should have been higher due to the low regard he clearly has for other road users.
Yours Rob Heath
Rob Heath, Reading, Berkshire
I bought oven gauntlets (for use in the aga) for my wife for her birthday. For some reason it didn't go down particularly well, although she does admit they are much better than tea towels at retrieving dishes from the depths of the roasting oven.
Ian Wright, Isle of Man,
I love my electric can opener. Given to me by an extremely eccentric girl in Brisbane, I would be bereft at it not working. And I have another girl friend who has a small device I much covet. Your maligned egg scissors. I search in vain for one. Not being a spoon basher of boiled egg tops, I find my aim maladjusted at best with a knife as I try to decapitate a boiled egg. Breakfast at her place is a pleasure as the little slicer first pricks the boiled egg and then neatly slices off the perfect sized top. Such a simple device and yet so sublime.
Michael, Auckland, NZ
Ms Moran
I can't help but have noticed over the last few months, but you are a very good looking woman.
Cheerio.
Chris Phipps, Worthing,
Yes, all very witty, but folded tea towels aren't thick enough and if damp produce penetrating steam to really burn the fingers!
I also use my bread maker almost every day to produce bread made from yeast, flour, water, butter and salt without any additives (see T2 earlier this week) whilst still having time to sleep and get to work.
One day when my joints give up I might even buy an electric can opener.
Marc Thomas, Oxford,
My favourite is the "cake tester". It's actually just a knitting needle. Fantastic.
D, London, UK
So what is useful?
Mike Jackson, Buderim, Qld Australia
Wise words in every regard, however dissing the oven glove is flirting with insanity! As someone who has worked in a bakery I cannot convey in words the mounting weeping frustration of constantly searching for those feckers in the face of rapidly charring food...for anyone who wants to know, it takes approximately 3 seconds for searing heat to travel through two damp balled up tea towels and cause mild to permanent skin damage (if only we'd thought to use a special drawer)...a pair of grimy, blackened, suspiciously soiled oven gloves should have pride of place in every right thinking individual's home!
Evelyn, Dublin, Ireland
Electric can-openers are worse than worthless. Electric knives, on the other hand, are hilarious retro entertainment. We have one we inherited from an old roommate. We brought it out once to slice a roast, and all our guests were fighting about who would get to use it. It's a party in a box, I swear.
Celina, Washington, DC, USA
"Electric bread-maker? USE THE OVEN!"
Thank you for that much-needed wake up call. I shall from now on be rising every morning at 4 am to knead, prove and bake my daily bread the way the Lord intended.
MickJ, London,
Alex from Milton Keynes - your oven's too hot! Turn it down man.
Dom , Manchester,
I think you are being a bit unfair to Lakeland Caitlin, perhaps you did not realise that they are the company who pioneered the gadget for removing the leafy part on the end of a strawberry. Who can live without this?
chris walter, maidstone, england
Dear Ms. Moran,
I would like a decent excuse to send you money directly. Please write a book.
Peter N., Reston, VA
Ever seen the electric knife sharperner sharpener? Yes, that wasn't a typo. One can buy a sharperner to sharpern ones sharperner.
Sarah, London,
I am an oven glove man myself. They have the serious advantage that they are about 50 times thicker than even a doubled teatowel, and stop my obviously delicate fingers from being seared to shreds. I haved tried both on numerous occasions - this is not an unsupported hypothesis.
David Giles, Düsseldorf, Germany
1. Which idiot invented cans in the first place?
2. Why would you want to eat things from cans?
3. Who put the poisons in the water in the first place?
4. Bread-Makers are for the lazy or disabled.
5. Count up the cost of all the pointless kitchen items you have.
6. Consider life without them.
7. Buying pointless gadgets is causing pollution.
8. They're going to break one day (probably soon).
9. When you throw them away they'll cause more pollution.
10. Eggs are awesome.
Andrew Corr, Burton On Trent, England
you assume everybody has a conventional oven..rice cookers and slow cookers etc are great for people who live in rooms and have no hob either. I agree that many smaller gadgets are unnecessary.
yvonne, Ely,
Oven gloves would be fine if my thumbs were in the middle of my hands!
John Faris, Peekskill, New York
tap water is full of poisons, use your Brita filter instead
Ralph Tedesco, London, UK
My favourite item to laugh at in the Lakeland Catalogue is the free standing bean slicer - a large unweildy contraption somehow superior to a knife that implies one will already have a wall-fixed bean slicer but will have lately been feeling whistful about the possibility of slicing beans in a variety of locations.
Mary , London, UK
Nooooo..! An electric can opener can't possibly be the worst kitchen gadget; I'm sure to arthritic, penniless pensioners it is viewed as the greatest invention ever to be bestowed upon this earth.
And bread makers are awesome. Okay, so it's customary for the machine to sit on top of a cupboard, neglected and dusty for a couple of years but after that initial period, it's actually pretty practical. You just bung in the ingredients and it does all the work for you. It kneads the dough BY ITSELF! Amazing! And rather fun to watch too( you can even dance along with it if you so please..). Also, there's no need to worry about when the bread will be ready as it has it's own timer, and, most importantly, you can leave the house while it's still on without the risk of your house burning down.
Olivia, London,
I'll happily join you in condemning most kitchen gadgets to the gadget drawer (a drawer which requires an oven glove to negotiate - or possibly even a gauntlet) but leave me my egg piercer. It's the only thing I've found that allows me to eat my morning's boiled egg from inside the shell rather than outside the shell.
Yes, I should probably remember to take the egg out of the fridge the night before or cook it in something arcane to avoid cracks, but for those of us who barely function until after breakfast an egg piercer is a life (or at least blouse) saver.
Anne, London,
My flatmate had the same opinion of oven gloves. When getting food out of the oven she got burnt on the wrist twice. She thought it was funny until some bloke on the tube made a comment about her being a bunny boiler who had tried to slash her wrists. Several weeks of long sleeves in summer ensured the permanent use of oven gloves.
Paul, London, UK
So, Caitlin, do all your tea towels get stained with the gravy and grease that gets on to anything you handle hot food with? Two ruined towels every time you lift a casserole? (You have to use one on each side) And if more than one person is helping in the kitchen, dirty tea towels left lying everywhere? When my children were children, in order to have hot dishes all carried to the table at the same time, I bought enough oven gloves for everybody. Also, I agree with Alex of Milton Keynes that even some gloves let the heat through, and folded tea towels are hopelessly thin.
Madeline Macdonald, Knebworth, UK
You know what is really needed is an electric unclogger for smoothie maker taps ..... anyone got the number for the patent office?
Laurence, Clifton,
Yes,yes,yes,yes,yes,no Caitlin!
As the Indiana Jones around this house, responsible for all cooking, but also an unhealthy love of tinkering with my vintage and classic cars, I find little use for most gadgets. But the little grey men in the Health and Safety Commission would inhale their 300 pageGuidelines in a gargantuan gulp of dismay at your suggestion that folded tea-towels should be used to remove hot dishes from the oven! They may look very silly and become easily contaminated, but oven gloves are a must for this adventure -free chef if he wants to survive to cook another day!
Rodney Knight, Barton Mills, Suffolk
Caitlin ... You are always good copy, and this is another. I leap for joy when I see your byline at the top of the page!
Steve, horsham, UK/West Sussex
My most hated electrical item is a mini beignet maker. Totally and utterly useless, I tried it out once and nearly hurled it through the glass doors onto the garden. It's now in the garage awaiting its fate. Funnily enough, no one wanted to buy it when I took it to the local flea market...
Sarah Hague, Montpellier, France
You can "fold" them.
Jack Thursby, Sheffield, UK
My electric can opener works just fine, and is a lot quicker than doing it by hand. An oven is no substitute for an electric bread-maker, since the latter takes care of the rising and kneading as well as the cooking. A knife will not slice eggs as efficiently as a wired egg-slicer. And the burns on my mother's wrists are an eloquent testimony to life without oven-gloves (I even bought her a pair, which she refuses to use).
Alys, Colchester, U.K.
So the electric can opener is the worst gadget, is it? Just wait until you get tendonitis and want to open a can. I sometimes have difficulty in opening the front door with a key, perhaps they can invent something for that.
Birgitta Karlsen, Bolton, England
Some of the items you mentioned may be impractical or over-engineered. Yet, some of the items may still have their place, for example items to make life easier for people who lack the manual dexterity to perform what we would consider menial tasks in the kitchen. e.g. The elderly or disabled.
Fony Vaio, London, UK
We use our wooden toast tongs every day and would not be without them
Johnny Norfolk, Mileham Norfolk, England
I love my electric can opener, so there!
samiam, london, uk
I also feel mild disgust at the idea of an oven glove, but must accept that they are a substantial improvement upon the tea towel as a hot-item-from-oven rescuing device.
This is for the reasons already mentioned here, and another, namely that with certain dishes the uppermost flapping bit of the towel is at risk of flopping over and dipping into your lasagne/shepherd's pie or what have you, contaminating both it and the towel.
Simon, Sofia,
Caitlin,
If you really want to replace your "boiled egg scissors" try here:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170135680625
I also saw similar items in the Croydon Allders earlier today.
Some items like baguette boards (a chopping board so narrow that it won't collect the crumbs from cutting a baguette that does even the slightest justice to the word crusty) are abominations to all possible utility.
Remember that some of the implements are actually suited to the infirm.
Though not perhaps the Smoothie maker.
Dan Allen, Crawley, UK
Thanks for the info. A pillow I can plug my ipod into is just what I have been looking for.
Quentin, Reading, UK
You forgot to mention the kitchen abhominations of banana hammocks and toast-tongs! Its the fall of Western Civilisation!!!
Katie, Ottumwa, USA, Iowa
Oven gloves? I found the best ones at Williams Sonoma. They're sort of a spongey material (think wet suits) with rubber-like material on both sides. They guard well and are very flexible. As far as the most useless item? Hmm, not sure. I actually use most of my gadgets, but I don't have, nor do I want, an electric can opener or an electric pop corn popper.
Babs, Greenwich, CT
Oven gloves are absolutely ridiculous! I wholeheartedly agree.
Alicia, Richmond, VA, USA
Wouldn´t be without my oven gloves - they hang on a hook ever at the ready. Numerous burns taught me the value of these gloves.
Sandwichmakers are my pet hate. The result tastes good but the work involved in keeping them clean has banned them from my kitchen. In fact, my kitchen is virtually gadget-free. My criterion is: if it makes work for me, chuck it!
Brooks, Munich, Gerfmany
Can you imagine anything worse than being shacked up in the Qualcomm Stadium with 5zillion Californians?! Free gifts or no, they are such a cheery, buoyant, smiling (irritatingly) helpful bunch out there I'd be beating the doors down in the hopes of escaping to fling myself into the furnace that was my home......
PS - oven-gloves are great. I think it's a test of one's butchness in the kitchen to see how many years they can last before you finally succumb to screaming 3rd degree burns and dinner all over the kitchen floor....
Nick Parker, Hawkhurst, Kent
I swear by my oven gloves! I would swear at tea towels, as, once wet they have a habit of transmitting heat very quickly and burning. Long live oven gloves!
Kathy, Askam in Furness, UK
Oven gloves can also cover well up the arm, so when absent-mindedly reaching into the oven you don't burn the top of your arm as I so often do unless wearing oven gloves. It's not very clever of me, but I do still have the burns from pre-gloves time to remind me to use them!
Alice, Manchester, UK
Tea towels are too thin. On occasion my oven gloves are too thin. Keep them in a drawer - they should be hanging on the oven door!
alex , milton keynes, england