Chris Ayres
Star musicians and your favourite Times writers at the Albert Hall
I was in a Las Vegas cab, heading from the airport to “the Strip” when I caught my first glimpse of it.
“Bloody hell,” I said. “It looks like they're building the Death Star.”
“It's the CityCentre,” corrected my cabbie, a long-haired and fidgety type. “A city-within-a-city. They say it's gonna cost more than $8 billion: the most expensive private land development in American history. Only in Las Vegas, huh?”
Indeed.
CityCentre - a joint venture between the 90-year-old corporate raider Kirk Kerkorian and Dubai World - is the kind of real estate project that could only happen in the heat and booze-frazzled lunacy of the Mojave desert. Not content with choosing one celebrity architect, the developers hired five: Norman Foster, Cesar Pelli, Daniel Libeskind, Rafael Viñoly and Helmut Jahn. Together they are creating an excesstropolis of almost comic proportions. Amenities will include a ten million sq ft hotel-casino, two other hotels, three apartment towers and a “retail and entertainment district” the size of one of Jupiter's moons.
All this probably sounded like a great idea two years ago, before Wall Street froze over and pundits started talking about the Great Depression II. These days it's hard to avoid the feeling that Sin City put its future on black just before the spinning ball of the economy landed on red. In total, the city's developers are $35 billion in the hole on projects such as CityCentre. If they're completed, Las Vegas will be a new city. If not, the entire house of cards could collapse.
One big project - the $2 billion Cosmopolitan hotel-casino - is already facing foreclosure after the developers missed loan payments. Another, the $6 billion Las Vegas Plaza, is rumoured to be facing delays, although this is officially denied. Even Donald Trump is getting worried and has put his plans for a second luxury apartment tower on hold. Others are concerned that all this financial pressure is resulting in sloppy construction practices. Over recent months nine workers have died in eight accidents at various sites: one man was cut in half by when a counterweight for a CityCentre lift fell on top of him.
In the old days, Las Vegas couldn't have cared less what was going on in the rest of the US economy. But ever since the likes of Frank “Lefty” Rosenthal were run out of town in the late 1980s, the city has been downplaying vice in favour of business conferences, three-starred Michelin restaurants, and French-Canadian acrobatic troupes. Old Lefty - who not only survived several recessions, but also a direct hit with a car bomb - must be laughing himself to sleep at night in his Miami retirement home.
There's an upside to the imminent death of Las Vegas: the place is a lot more fun than it used to be. There's less traffic, the restaurants are less crowded and you can actually get some elbow room at the blackjack tables. My advice to anyone planning a trip: do it sooner rather than later, while you still can.

Chris Ayres is the Los Angeles Correspondent for The Times and the author of War Reporting for Cowards, a critically-acclaimed account of the Iraq War. He joined The Times in 1997 and was nominated as Foreign Correspondent of the Year in 2004. He lives in the Hollywood Hills
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All recessions have their end. Vegas has survived hard times before and without doubt will do so again. In the meantime maybe we will see bargains on the condo market. Particularly when there are more condos available than there are high rollers to snatch them up.
Mary, Tulsa, Oklahoma, USA
Spent last week in Vegas. The residential market is still steaming along, with new housing south and west of the city. The prices were very reasonable for the unionized working class folks that make the strip run 24-7.
The water shortage must be addressed, but I wouldn't write Vegas' future.
Michael in LA, Los Angeles, CA, USA
So many times have critics said that Las Vegas is finished, or that it has bet too high on its next big project, or that it has over expanded to such a stage that it cannot possibly work! Not once have they been right, so to be quite frank, I put my cards on that Vegas will continue to thrive, grow and flourish as one of the most visited places in the world. After all, 38 million tourists a year (a number on the increase), many of whom come from overseas, means that a depression will really have to criple America before this place looses out. After all, I'm sure a Times reporter must remember that phrase 'the casino always wins'.
M Burton, Crowborough, East Sussex, UK
By all means, come to Las Vegas now, while £1 still buys you $2, but we're hardly on our last legs.
Part of CityCenter is already built: the condominium sales office. It's been described as the most expensive temporary structure in the world; once CityCenter proper is up and running, it will be gone in favor of something new. And when CityCenter itself outlives its usefulness, we'll implode it in the middle of the night like the buildings it replaced.
Bill, Las Vegas, USA
I went to Las Vegas, an astonishing place - America "red in tooth and claw". But don't go for more than a week, and fit in a trip to the Hoover Dam and the Grand Canyon. You won't know America when you get back, but you'll feel as though you do.
It's weird - the country that sees the rest of the World as a theme park, is rapidly becoming a theme park for the rest of the World.
Ken Leyland, Liverpool, U.K.
Places like Las Vegas, Phoenix and Tucson were not feasible until modern air conditioning was invented and used prolifically. In some ways, none of these cities really should ever have been built since they have no local water supplies. As global warming continues -- and even escalates -- and the Western United States continues to undergo increasing long-term drought, it will be VERY interesting to see if places like these 3 cities can grow or even just maintain their existence. It is also likely that Las Vegas in particular will feel a crunch when Americans can no longer afford the cost of flying or driving there and must cut back on expenses such as gambling, travel and hotels. I'm very glad I'm not signed onto a billion dollar development loan hoping against hope that "if I build it, they will come."
Janet, Salt Lake Citiy, UT, USA
A lot of people are saying that only the really great projects are actually getting built. Project City Center is the giant out of all these projects but so many others that have been cancelled would have made the available room glut much worse.
One astonishing thing about Las Vegas is how high the room occupancy rates are. Major strip properties are very often completely booked every weekend, when room rates skyrocket. This is the main reason why so many high end projects were announced.
One of the biggest concerns Las Vegas pundits have had is how overpriced the city has become, especially for the convention business, which is much more price sensitive. The largest convention is the Consumer Electronics Show which has recently been alienating its visitors with the uppity attitude of the with excessive price gouging.
The addition of tens of thousands of brand new high end properties Adds to the number of reasonabley priced, high quality rooms aplenty for the price sensitive.
John, Berkeley, CA USA
Where is Frank "Lefty" Rosenthal when the city of Las Vegas needs him most?
david johnson, houston, texas
The closing statement was based on much more than erratic spending on wasteful projects. There exist a whole host of issues which point toward the demise of Las Vegas, including potable water waste, geographic location, and energy consumption. I would be extremely skeptical that the intent of this article is to persuade individuals to vacation in Las Vegas, rather to bring to light the inevitable decline of the city into focus. Granted the timeline will be hard to predict, but the outcome is clear.
Patrick, Denver, Colorado
I so disagree with this article. Instead of speculation, I'd rather look at facts. Look at the tourism statistics of Las Vegas through the years
http://cber.unlv.edu/tour.pdf
From 2001 to 2007, visitor volume increased from 35 million to 39 million people.Hotel occupany rates increased from 84.7% to 90.4% during these years.
You know what's long long gone... $19/night hotel rooms and $1.99 prime rib dinners you can get anywhere on the strip!
Arlene, LA,
So, you've explained the upside...could you give us a refresher on what the theoretical downside would be? I missed that part.
Dan'l, Portland, US
What is the implication of this closing statement from Chris Ayres?
"My advice to anyone planning a trip: do it sooner rather than later, while you still can."
Does he mean that Vegas will soon be gone and we should all therefore hurry before its demise?
Mr Ayres is surely exaggerating. No doubt the intention of his dramatic statement was designed with the intent of getting himself noticed rather than accurately portraying the facts.
My comments irrespective of their content will probably be received with orgasmic pleasure, but Mr Ayres will now be marked down a notch in my list of journalists I pay heed to.
My toughest decidion was whether to be annoyed by his article or whether to laugh in derision.
Laughing won hands down.
joe, glasgow, uk