Giles Coren
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Influential commentators writing in The Times have helped to shape government policy for years. But this is surely the first time that a minister has been forced by a restaurant critic to call for action.
For make no mistake, this is all my doing. Since I first made my stand against bottled water in 2006 – incorporating penalty points for serving it into my restaurant ratings, vilifying its producers and mocking its consumers – consumption of the stuff has plummeted (probably). Far more restaurants than ever before offer tap water first and then bottled only as the Bling-Bling alternative. Punters who opt for the Perrier or Badoit now do so with a blush and an apology to diners at the next table.
In 2008 drinkers of bottled water are the new smokers.
Mineral water is a preposterous vanity. It is flown and shipped around the world, from France and Norway at best, from Japan and Fiji at worst. It is bottled in glass that is mostly thrown away and is stupidly heavy to freight, or in plastic that never decomposes and just goes to landfill or ends up in an ocean “plastic patch” the size of Texas.
Food snobs and restaurant critics make a song and dance about mineral waters they like and don’t like. New York’s Ritz-Carlton even caters to the whim of abstemious punters with a dedicated water list and sommelier.
The vanity of it! While half the world dies of thirst or puts up with water you wouldn’t p**s in, or already have, we have invested years and vast amounts of money in an ingenious system that cleanses water of all nasties and delivers it, dirt-cheap, to our homes and workplaces in pipes, which we can access at a tap.
In 2006 we bought three billion litres of bottled water. I have no idea how much that is. But it seems a lot. Especially when we were fooled into buying it because of labels that said “pure as an alpine stream”, “bottled at the foot of a Mexican volcano” or “cleansed for three million years beneath a Siberian glacier”. What morons we are.
We spent £2 billion on the stuff. And then we grumble about water metering and annual domestic bills of a couple of hundred quid for water that is just as good, and whose consumption is unlimited. That £2 billion could go some way to mending the odd leak, towards digging the odd reservoir.
From the restaurants’ point of view it is just a clipping system. It’s more free money. The mark-ups are bigger even than they are on wine. You’ll pay £4 to £5 in most posh London restaurants for stuff no different, no different at all, from what you brushed your teeth in that morning (not leaving the tap on while doing so, I hope). The result is billions of unnecessary food miles, nonbiodegradable waste, millions of tonnes of greenhouse gases, more urban pollution, hell in a handcart.
Giles Coren has been a columnist for The Times since 1999. He began as a feature writer before becoming restaurant critic in 2001. His reviews appear in The Times Magazine on Saturdays
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I never buy mineral water at home, but I live in Belgium where restaurants won't serve tap water, unlike France where a "carafe d'eau" is normal. A French friend asked for tap water eating out in Brussels & was told "Sir you're not in France". How about an EU right to tap water??
Rebecca, Brussels, Belgium
Hugh - you miss the point entirely. If beef was available "on tap" (oh the joy!) but people insisted on buying it in bottles at 100 times the price, then you would have a point.
Greg, London,
The point is it makes no sense to pay for something that is free and bountiful. Did you not read the article? Why waste so much energy and money on something that's not proven to be better than tap water? It's totally irrational. There is clean drinking water in your backyard and yet you have to drink water from thousands of kilometers away. It's just plain idiotic. Half the world does not have clean water to drink.
If you are so concerned with chemicals in your food and the risk of getting cancer, then may be you should not be eating meat or any dairy products because those have chemicals too. Heck, you should not even eat vegetables while you are at it since it has pesticides and herbicides.
Easiest way around this "fear of contaminated tap water" is to buy a water filter that takes out the fluoride. So when you go out, just take a bottle of water with you. There is no excuse for drinking bottled water, other than laziness and ignorance.
Wilson, Hong Kong,
I don't think it is 'all your doing'. I think your trying to jump on the bandwagon like everyone else. This is a very angery article which is obviously shrouded in personal opinions & politics.
Tap water doesn't taste anything like bottled water. Don't get me wrong - i drink tap water, but don't try lecturing people with blatant silly statements like that.
Couple with the fact that Alan Johnson (our health secretary) has ordered all public water to contain flouride (a substance 20 times more poisonous that lead). There are so many studies linking the correlations of flouride against high cancer levels. Indeed the government own report concluded that further research was required.
What choice do we have? - I think we have no choice but to drink bottled water without putting ourselves in harms way.
I think we'll see an increased demand for bottled water once such meddling starts.
ian, manchester, uk
Does our restaurant reviewer eat meat? Beef in particular poses far worse environmental problems than bottled water: consider that it takes 8kg of grain to raise 1kg of beef - this puts immense needless pressure on arable land and is, in fact, one of the main drivers of tropical deforestation. The energy demands, methane emissions, and deforestation involved in the beef industry contribute more greenhouse gases than the entire global transport sector. Worse, the eating of beef is viewed as normal and rational, whereas the snobbish indulgence in expensive bottled water is the domain of a minority of gourmand twits with more money than brains. It seems a waste of time and energy to pick on bottled water while there are far more serious environmental problems on our dinner plates.
Hugh, Oxford, England
http://www.thewaterproject.com
We're calling on people to stop drinking exhorbitantly over priced bottled water and donating the money saved to finance clean watrer infrastructure in undevelopped and developping areas of Africa. We've only been around about a year but we've already started making a difference and we continue to expand the area we are serving.
Alex, Saint John, Canada
In countries where the water is good enough for drinking then all govt and its agencies should set an example by not using bottles particularly during conferences and meetings.
c goh, rickmansworth, uk
Given the water around here is so full of limescale, I would not even wash my car with it, never mind drink the stuff, what's the alternative? Fit a chemical filter and drink some weird stuff? I dont think so, I'll stick to bottled water.
Arthur, Newcastle,
This might apply in the US. But in India we cant drink from the tap as its contaminated and mixed with every toxin possible.
Hari, Bgl, Ind
Wella - please!
I take it your one of those of people who has loads of "allegies" mmm if you really believe you have these problems then why not get a filter attached to your tap?
claire, london,
A Republican is a Republican, is a Republican. It isn't the John McCain running for President. It is the philosophy of that party. Just think what harm Bush and Cheney have done to this country! Bush would like to blame someone else. They are Republican and are suppose to be running things.The criminal behavior is theirs.It might help if the Republicans could pick someone intelligent. Remember that photo on TV when it showed McCain with a little movement saying "Bomb,bomb,bomb Iran" Even if it was meant to be a joke,do we really want someone with such poor judgement.Then,with all of that protection in Bagdad, he was walking through the market place talking about how safe it was. Granted,he was a war hero but that doesn't translate into being President.
Betty McKenzie, Adrian, Mo.
Bottled water is an unnecessary luxury. The smarter, more environmentally friendly choice would be to use a water filter and re-useable bottles. There is absolutely no reason to pay over $1 a bottle for something readily available at home.
Get more info about bottled water and its impact on the environment at www.BottledWaterBlues.com
Susan, Los Angeles, CA
Bottled spring water is not the same as tap water - it's far more easily digestible. People suffering from stomach problems can often tolerate it when they can't cope with tap water. So it does have a very specific medicinal use.
Wella, Canterbury,
Yes, I am sure that you ride everywhere on your bicycle after eating locally sourced produce and wearing clothes and shoes manufactured from the sheep and cattle in your garden Giles! Hows about the fact that bottle water is essentially pure (yes, no chemicals) and comes on the same containers that bring over wine/fruit and other produce.
Its easy to bring anything down to the lowest base level, cheese is CHEESE (Brie = supermarket value cheese), freshly squeezed orange juice is the same as concentrate stuff, and theres no difference between a £5 wine and a £50?
They all look and are called the same right? WRONG!
This article should say "drink soft drinks not bottled water when out...!!"
Christopher John, London, England
Spot on!!!
Greg Gulbrandsen, Bend, Oregon, USA