Celia Brayfield
Take a trip to New York and see the city from the air
Isn’t it time we admitted that art is hell? You go to one of the world’s great art exhibits looking forward to seeing human creation at its most beautiful and instead you experience human nature at its ugliest.
I am full of solidarity with the staff at the Louvre, who are striking for more pay because of the stress of dealing with 8.3 million visitors a year. Their job is to funnel the equivalent of the population of New York City through a palace built for a few hundred courtiers, past a painting intended for a private home.
They describe their days protecting the Mona Lisa from her fans with words such as “unbearable”, “aggressive” and “dangerous”. Citizens, I know just what they mean. It’s probably small consolation that you are actually being paid to be in the presence of Leonardo’s masterpiece while the rest of the world has to pay for that privilege and queue for half a day to claim it.
Just a few weeks ago the Sistine Chapel took action to protect the Michelangelo and Botticelli frescoes, cutting opening hours and raising prices. My recent memory of this, the ultimate shrine of Christian art, was struggling to stay on my feet in the middle of a yammering mob while a team of young priests went hoarse calling for silence and respect. It was like Grand Central Station, except that there just wasn’t room to sit down and weep. Four million people a year, the population of Sydney, enter the Sistine inferno. The queue most days is six deep and a mile long.
These places are like rock stars. They are the charismatic species of art and architecture — the Uffizi, the Hermitage, the Taj Mahal, the Pyramids, Notre Dame, the British Museum, the Tates — and the desire that people have to be in their presence has gone far beyond the attraction of artistic achievement. They are icons, talismans, pilgrimage sites and visiting them is as meaningful as going to a rock concert, getting caked in mud, hearing a booming noise and seeing on stage a capering figure one millimetre high.
The phenomenon has a tsunami-like momentum of its own and draws people whose motives have nothing to do with art and only a questionable interest in humanity. The Louvre is suffering from an added influx of Da Vinci Code readers; I don’t think they’re there for love of Renaissance painting. Pope Benedict XVI showed Christlike forgiveness when he acknowledged that the Vatican tourists are “not Catholic, not Christian and perhaps not even believers” but said he hoped the Sistine Chapel “leads the mind to open itself to the sublime” and so highlights “the continuous interweaving between faith and art, the divine and the human”.
Is it possible to open your mind to the sublime when you’re being herded like cattle to the abattoir? Overcrowding makes every species aggressive. Can you gaze at the majesty of the Pyramids of Giza and screen out the Kentucky Fried Chicken outlet? But pilgrims have to eat. Can the smile of Botticelli’s Primavera touch you even through a thick plastic antivandal screen? If she were a rock star, she would have 20 minders.
The tragic paradox of our great art works is that the more significant they become the less their significance can be appreciated. You brace yourself to visit a great gallery knowing that there’s no chance of the transcendent experience supposed to happen when contemplating a masterpiece. At the Holbein exhibition at Tate Britain a few weeks ago I calculated the elbow-jabbing and toe-stomping that I would have to endure to get a square view of one drawing, tore up my timed ticket and ran away.
It is just as tragic that the millions rush past many great works that aren’t in the exhibition of the moment or listed on the tour-bus itinerary. I’ve long cherished the notion of an art visa scheme, which reserves admission to the greatest paintings to those willing to study for a diploma in the relevant school and collect loyalty stamps for at least ten other unjustly neglected works.
Curators are in a bind. Their mission is to make great art available to the greatest numbers. Crowd control was never part of an art history degree. Read a gallery’s annual report and it will proudly record acquisitions and exhibitions while the visitor experience is the elephant in the room, a massive problem never mentioned. Only when the works are threatened by footfall, flash photography or psychotic fans is action taken.
At the Uffizi, as well as the Perspex screens protecting the major works, the decorated floors and ceilings have been boarded over. At the summer palaces at St Petersburg they insist that tourists wear felt slippers but the inlaid wood floors are still splintering. Increasingly the choice is between risking a work’s survival and letting it be seen.
The sharing of cultural heritage ought to promote world peace and understanding, not make the participants want to cry. It’s time that art lovers united to resolve this paradox. Back in France, archaeologists have found one solution. When it became clear that the cave paintings at Lascaux were being damaged by the rise in humidity caused by visitors’ exhaled breath, they replicated the whole rock face in fibreglass and installed it in a custom-built visitor centre. Only scientists and heads-of-state are allowed to view the real thing.
As an experience, Lascaux 2 is still moving, dignified and impressive, all the more so because it doesn’t brutalise the visitor or pander to the unworthy desire to go home boasting that you almost touched the precious object. With the intellectual rigour that is particularly Gallic, the custodians of this icon recognised that they were really in the theme park business and rose to the challenge of making a mass experience meaningful. Disneyworld or disaster: we have a choice.
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Sorry Tracey Roth, what does Amrican Woman mean? I just couldnt find it in the dictionary... or is it a spelling mistake twice?
Anyway, I think its sad what you can see in Louvre. I believe the 90% of the visitors just go there to tell friends that they saw the Mona Lisa etc etc, and they wouldnt even realise that its a fake one, made by a new printer :)
I wouldn't say that they should do the same like in Lascaux... and increasing the entrance fee might would do less visitors. But what if there is an old lady, living on a pension and really interested in art. Should we refuse her? And I don't understand what is this huge thing about Mona Lisa, there are plenty of other paintings and piece of arts that are at least the beautiful than that "special" one.
Thomas, Brussels, Belgium
Corin Keiler-Lloyd: I may be one of those "US Amrican women. Or descendant thereof" who did what to your Louvers? Doesn't your last point, "Let people go where they want to and not where they think they ought to," mean we agree? Or do you make it a point never to agree with "US Amrican women"? Or Louvers?
Tracey Roth, Danbury, CT, USA
You obviously haven't been to the Ufizzi recently. At this time its simply not true that there are perspex screens around the primavera or the Venus or that half the place is boarded up as you seem to imply. Ok the Uffizzi is busy even on a cold december day but We were able to see the Botticellis in all their glory and the crowd came and went but I was able to spend a long time admiring in detail these truly beautiful paintings - something you just can't appreciate from photos. We were at the Sistine chapel last week and even though it was busy and a long queue, again an unforgettable experience actually to see these fabulous works of art in the flesh. I can't imagine anyone failing to be stunned by their beauty - thats the real draw
Tess, Varese, Italy
I find that I am seldom in the mood for viewing art merely because I am in the position to visit a gallery at a particular time. I think any picture, like a piece of music, needs repeated attention to properly appreciate. Visits to an art icon are thus largely procedural. I think curators and the like should take whatever pragmatic steps they feel necessary to manage their charges.
Henry Percy, London, UK
We visited The Louvre last August at the height of the summer tourist season. Yes the area around the Mona Lisa was crowded but quite orderly. One very good thing, the stewards ushered children to the front of the crowds so that they could all see the painting easily. My family and I thought that was a very special thing to do as my grandchildren live in Canada and aren't often in Paris.
Angela, Ashford,
These attractions are often overcrowded because of the state bureaucracy administering them. They only open during office hours (plus the odd evening and weekend) and charge everybody the same ticket price. Of course there are unpleasant crowds at the busiest times.
The market solution would be to open 24 hours a day, only allow a certain number of people in per hour, and auction the tickets. Then nobody would be in unpleasant crowds, those who were prepared to go in the middle of the night would get in for next to nothing, and those who want to go in the middle of a summer's day would pay dearly for the privilege.
Sadly, the state bureaucracies in charge much prefer short working hours and easily-administered fixed ticket prices, so there is no chance that this solution could be tried.
Dr. Keith Anderson, Durham, England
Simple supply and demand problem:
1. Jack up the price.
2. Subsidize or give away tickets to university art departments and tours of worthy interested parties who don't otherwise have the means to pay the higher price.
3. Digitize the art at high resolution (in 3d for statues and buildings) and put it online for free.
#3 is the real test of faith for the curators since it has the potential to really reduce their income, and yet helps the most with preservation.
J, Washington, D.C., U.S.A.
I'm inclined to agree with you. It is well known that flash photography releases bursts of damaging ultraviolet and fades the paintings. There are ample signs in the Louvre and d'Orsay stating this in several languages, and yet the hoardes continue to walk up to a vivid Van Gough and grab a snap.
I don't understand it - you can buy a lovely print taken by a professional photographer in the gift shop that will be higher resolution and impeccably lit and focused, but they do it anyhow. I found it apalling.
Todd Blanchard, Bainbridge Island, WA
Tracy Roth, you do not know what you are on about. It is not just paintings and the like that are at risk. Landscapes and buildings suffer from footfall. There is a kind of failure brought on by success. I have seen more than one venture destroyed in that way. But perhaps you are just one the US Amrican women. or descendant thereof, who ruined my visit to the Louver and the Mona Lisa. I was twelve and it was forty-two years ago. I went to be in the presence of Beauty and Greatness. I found myself in the presence of Ignorance and Crassness. Ignorance is forgivable, but to express it as derision is Crass. Let people go where they want to and not where they think they ought to.
Corin Keiler-Lloyd, Wolverhampton, UK
That's funny...the original residents of the Louvre felt just the same way about the teeming masses that queued outside for bread...and assigned equally snobbish and elitist opinions upon them.
Tracey Roth, Danbury, Connecticut, USA
As you might expect, Spanish guides have created a more mature method for dealing with monument tourists than the French or Italians. Visitors to the Alhambra for example are limited to 7000 each day. If you fail to purchase a timed ticket at least a day before, you are free to join the daily queue for one at the entrance which begins to form around 6.30am.
Organised groups take precedence at all times as they must employ a guide. Groups of over 30 require 2 guides. Their rate is a negotiated 150-180 Euros per guide per group. (each extra language 15-20 Euros) Many manage 3 tours each day, some 7 days a week.
seamus, spain,
The idea of replicating the most important works of art is intriguing, but what do you do with Venica? Do you replicate the whole lagoon? Anyhow, if you go during the dead season, you can still see the museums (and Venice) without fiighting the hordes of tourists.
renato baserga, Philadelphia,PA, USA
This is a hideously elitist argument, but I'm afraid you are right. Umberto Eco suggested a few years ago building replicas of Italy's most important "sights" for mass visits.
I'm very pleased to have known most of the great museums in the 1970s, when I used to show art history students around the Uffizi and other European museums in the summer and thus have good memories of the paintings. Now I avoid the Uffizi, but fortunately in Rome, Florence and Paris (to cite just the cities you mention) there are plenty of "unknown" galleries with enough paintings to satisfy us and still today few visitors.
Or you can move to China, as I have, and begin your aesthetic life from scratch. Better than Giaconda and Primavera under plastic!
william dunn, Beijing, China
'Virtual galleries' need to be further developed. The technology exists, but work has been half-hearted, and most gallery sites remain primitive. It is true that nothing beats the experience of looking at a masterpiece 'in the flesh', so to speak, but I too have visited the Louvre many times, and the reality is of peering at the thing (or bits of it) through a surging human tide for a few moments - before the tide sweeps me onwards. I and doubtless many others would settle for virtual reality as an excellent second best (or a best?)
Andrew May, De Panne, Belgium
Celia, the answer is as you say... replicate... clone, copy or whatever... Who can tell the difference? Sir Joshua Reynold's Mona Lisa in the Dulwich Gallery is in a much better state of preservation than the real one in the Louvre; moreover, recently I stood alone squarely in front of this copy [Reynold's thought HE owned the original ]!
Modern tools can create magnificent replicas of everything from the Marbles to La Primavera. Let Art copy Life and replicate!
Derek Lamport, Lewes, UK
I don't know how I feel about this strike. And I can understand what Ms. Brayfield is saying, but I don't know if I sympathize with her views, either.<br><br>I suppose that I have been to the Louvre a dozen times. I never tried to get near the Mona Lisa - she was always one of the things left over for next time - but I have spent some of the important moments of my life looking at another of the cultural icons, the Venus of Milo, or whatever you want to call her. I saw and understood things which I had never noticed in hours spent looking at dozens of photographs, and I'm glad I was there. It was important to me. The same is true of Renoir's spotted Girl in the Sun in the Musée d'Orsay, and several other icons of the sort. And now Ms. Brayfield is telling me from the heights of her superiority that I'm some kind of low animal, and my presence only damages the artworks, so that they should only be left visible to superior creatures like her. She's no doubt right.
David, Petach Tikva,
Celia,Celia,Celia...You a member of the 4th estate,strikes again for ,what else can I say...the 4th estate...!!!...Of course a visa debit....Only those of the Arts to see and marvel...How perfect an answer...Remove the 4th estate and all of the 'hot air' will disappear....
timothy mccarthy, san marcosca, US of A