Joanna Bourke
Download 'Too Hot', an exclusive Specials track from iTunes
What is it about the way women dress that excites so much fury? In Johannesburg, a young woman was recently stripped, sexually assaulted and paraded naked by a group of taxi operators as punishment for wearing “indecent” clothes.
Only three years ago in Britain, an ICM poll found that one in every four women believes that a woman who wears sexy clothes is partially or totally responsible if she is subsequently raped. Evolutionary psychologists like Randy Thornhill and Craig Palmer even argue that young men ought to be made aware of the evolutionary reasons why men are aroused by the sign of female flesh and that girls ought to be taught “the costs associated with attractiveness”. We are constantly told that we live in an egalitarian, post-feminist world, but women are still seen as somehow to blame if they are sexually assaulted.
Women have not simply sat back and let themselves be dictated to about how they adorn themselves. Clothes are the new politics. In France, thousands of women marched in the streets to defend their right to wear the veil. Many of them have done this in the name of free choice, rather than slavish devotion to religious or parental exhortations. In Jerusalem, a growing number of Jewish women have taken to covering their heads in a sal. Some have even wrapped themselves head-to-toe in a gown resembling the Iranian chador or the Afghan burka. As one of the defenders of the sal admitted: “If the Jews want to conquer the Arabs in their land they must enhance their modesty.” In such a way, women's clothing is pressed into service in the battle between Jew and Arab.
At the other extreme, women with more money than sense are having Botox and plastic surgery or paying for their little toes to be amputated (pink-ectomies) in order to fit into the latest Jimmy Choos.
With all this happening, is it any wonder that debating the politics of clothes is back in fashion? In the past women found themselves constrained by fear of dangerous spaces. They protested that walking around Soho at night was liable to elicit wolf-whistles and offers of “cash for snatch”. Today, restrictions on women's movements have shrunk to the very garments against their skin. Even when not flaunting their flesh, women's bodies are seen as sexual. Indeed, some rabbis criticise the wearing of the sal precisely on the ground that it actually draws attention to women.
By definition, femaleness has become pornographic. Whether making arguments for covering up women's bodies or encouraging exuberant sexual expression in dress, these debates share a profound fear of women and their alleged voracious sexuality. Women must know their place, or pay the price. If they break the rules, they should expect a backlash.
For women even more than men, clothes have always been about identity. They signify belonging - whether to another man (a father or husband), a nation (Indian or British), a faith (Muslim or Jewish), or a cultural community (hippie or goth). In fearful times, when society is threatened by war, corruption and crumbling values, it becomes even more important to encourage or coerce women into taking up a symbolic role as upholders of morality and stability.
While these debates about clothes affect women, they reveal a concern about men. Paradoxically, it is men who are the real problem. Arguments about women's clothing expose a profound distrust of the male sex. After all, who are scantily dressed women supposed to be corrupting, unless it is decently attired men? The problem is that men's sex drive is aggressively needy: women need to police their outer garments because men can't police their inner beast.
As long ago as September 1946, the British Medical Journal published a letter from a doctor suggesting that the Government consider the “compulsory veiling of women” in Britain as a solution to an epidemic of crimes of sexual violence. As he quipped, tongue in cheek: “So long as the leaders of civilisation remain unaware of how to promote self-control in the individual the Moslem solution may prove the only alternative to wholesale compulsory sterilisation of the male.”
In this country, at least, neither the knife nor compulsory veiling is likely to prove popular. But the politics of clothing remains important for those seeking equality for men and women. A couple of days ago, hundreds of women in Johannesburg marched in the street, some wearing mini-skirts and high heels, demanding that men who violently attack women for violating a respectable dress code be punished. Women's right to wear a mini-skirt or, indeed, a burka, might not be on par with their right to the vote or to equal pay in the workplace, but without one it is difficult to see us attaining the other.
Joanna Bourke is Professor of History at Birkbeck College, London. Her latest book is Rape: A History from 1860 to the Present
Win a luxury weekend to Newcastle and its neighbour Gateshead, find out more here
Risk, resilience and embracing new technology
Industry sectors news at a glance. Interactive heatmap, video and podcast
Discover the power of collective thinking. Submit a solution and be in with a chance to win a Media Hub Home Entertainment System
The inside track on current trends in the charity, not for profit and social enterprise sectors
Everything the Business Traveller needs to know to make a better trip
Make the most of the summer and enter our fabulous photographic competition, you could win a £5000 holiday
Corsica is an island of beauty and contrast, an ideal holiday destination
Enjoy further reading from Travel to Fashion, Business to Sport, discover more
Shortcuts to help you find sections and articles
The clever way to lease a new car is with Car leasing made simple™
2009
per month on 36-month
Personal Contract Hire (PCH)
2008
42850
Car Insurance
£24,250 - £30,346
MI5
London
£60,000
The Environment Agency
Bristol
Up to £90K
Boots
Midlands
OTE £85k
Credit Protection Association
Nationwide Opportunities
Completely London
Luxury Condo's in Manhattan with NYC views
The best new homes in Wimbledon?
Nationwide
Fabulous Cruise And Cruise & Stay Offers Including Virgin Atlantic Flights Prices Start From Only £699pp!
Last Minute Cruise And Cruise & Stay Offers. Med From £499pp, Caribbean From £699pp!
5 star quality at a 3 star price.
8 fabulous Canadian cities ...you won’t find cheaper
Contact our advertising team for advertising and sponsorship in Times Online, The Times and The Sunday Times, or place your advertisement.
Times Online Services: Dating | Jobs | Property Search | Used Cars | Holidays | Births, Marriages, Deaths | Subscriptions | E-paper
News International associated websites: Globrix Property Search | Property Finder | Milkround
Copyright 2009 Times Newspapers Ltd.
This service is provided on Times Newspapers' standard Terms and Conditions. Please read our Privacy Policy.To inquire about a licence to reproduce material from Times Online, The Times or The Sunday Times, click here.This website is published by a member of the News International Group. News International Limited, 1 Virginia St, London E98 1XY, is the holding company for the News International group and is registered in England No 81701. VAT number GB 243 8054 69.
As a male, I believe firmly that what women wear in any way, shape or form could never justify any act of sexual barbarity forced upon them. Any human, male or female, deserves choice in what they wear without consequence!
A, Inverness,
Dan,
So what are you actuallly saying? It seems you are saying that women are responsible for the actions of men if they wear clothes that men find a turn on. If a man sexual harresses a woman, assaults her, rapes her then it is always his fault never hers no matter how attractive she looked to the man. And if you think your opinions are so acceptable Dan I suggest that next time you are in a bar chatting someone up, that uoue mention that you think it is acceptable to rape a woman and blame it on her for dressing sexily. Of course you won't because like all men who say these things are acceptable you prefer women not to know yur opinions. Next time I hear a man saying that if a woman flirts with a man he thinks it is acceptable to have non-consensual sex with her, I am going to ask him if he ever tells the women flirting with him this!
lou, uk,
Dan,
Wome do take responsibilty for their clothing, they just do not take responsibilities for the actions of men. Grow up, will you. You seem to be saying women should let men feel powerful if they do not want to be raped. While I agree with you that rapes are about power not sex (there has been an increase in the numbers of straight men raping men!), to suggest that women are pasrtly to blame for the actions of men is pathetic and belittles men. And most women do not think that man must make the first move, so perhaps the reason why you always have to make the first move is because no one finds you thta attractive. I am sure if you told women your opinions on how men are not always responsible for their actions it would explain why no one makes the first move.
lou, uk,
I think responsibilities are held here by both sexes. Men need to control themselves and women need to take responsibility for what they wear.
Power is an important underlying issue here. What is frequently overlooked in debates here is that the woman is not always benign in how she chooses to dress - my experience of female friends is that they dress provocatively because they love the feeling of power they hold over men by showing off. However, the vast majority of women don't flaunt that power, as the vast majority of men know how to control their physical power. The point is that any form of power wielded to excess builds resentment in those dis-empowered.
A thorough dispelling of the myth in society that women aren't as sexual as men and the removal of chivalric, outdated notions that the man has to make the first move in any given dating situation is also needed. While it feels nice to be able to pick and choose potential suitors the guy always has to make the move :-(
Dan, London,
Time the codpiece came back into fashion?
F Kimbal Johnson, Louth,Lincs, uk
I am a very beautiful women (I know that sound sbig headed but it is true) and I dress normally yet i still get groped by men when I am out in Britain. Always I threaten to call the police, and remind the men they will have been caught on CCTV, and while they pack it in they always swear at me. Should I only go out wearing a full face veil? Or should men be told that if they want to be allowed out in public they behave proprly. I live in Denmark and while there are rapes the level of sexual harresment just doe snot occur here unless one goes to a British bar. As a result women can sunbath topless and not get bothered by anyone but Danish women avoid the bars thta are known to be tourist traps because it means spending the night being groped. Of course the said gropes do not like it when the police turn up and they spend the day of the football match they have come to see in the cells (they are normally drunk gropers who get very agressive when women tell them to back off )
Astrid, denmark,
The problem has been defined as a female one it isn't. It is the continuation of the myth that male sexuality is uncontrolable. Until this is challenged it doesn't matter how women behave or dress they will still be made responsible for
male behaviour. This view is particularly prevalent in traditional
societies and yes traditional Muslim societies.
Not on mates. Your drives are your responsibility. We are all enjoined not to make judgements about people according to
what we see and assume. Women are people too however they dress.
Adam, Harrogate, UK
I would like to add that it is not just men who judge a woman's character by her clothes, other women do it too! I bet there is not a single one among us who can honestly deny having judged another woman, whether for her professionalism at work or her supposed promiscuity in a nightclub, by her clothes!
And though I could never believe that a rape could be the fault of the woman as it is such an aggressive, despicable act, but I certainly think women can protect themselves. My most annoying friend is a girl who wears skirts that barely cover her knickers in nightclubs and then starts fights when men try to grope her. Their behaviour is disgusting but she cannot dresses in that fashion knowing full well that she attracts attention, is she not provoking being objectified and treated like a piece of meat by continually displaying herself in that way?
Holly, Birmingham, UK
I think women should be allowed to carry guns like they can in the States. That way we can wear what we like.
Thalia, London,
Bleat! Bleat! Bleat! Just one more chapter in the never ending saga of women complaining the life isn't fair to them. Here's a little bit of reality! Life ain't fair - to anyone! It doesn't matter how often you parade the dogma of sexual quality and the social engineering intended to achieve it (I'll leave out the bit about how that social engineering is currently aimed at making women the Napolians of the Animal Farm scenario), equality of any sort is essentially unnaural. Simple fact - women ARE the weaker sex, at least physically, which is the factor that determines if you are likely to be a victim. The only thing that prevents the wholesale return to the politics of the caveman is the application of the law, itself a basically unnatural invention. True most men abide by it, but there will always be some who don't, and the number is rising as they feel victimised by the law. Women would be much safer if they understood that fact and acted in ways that mitigated the effects of it.
Bob Finbow, Haverhill, England
The whole subject is complicated by the "nature or nurture" question. Are men turned on by revealing clothing on women? Of course they are but then the question arises as to what is revealing? Male Muslims appear to believe they will not be capable of resisting being turned into raging sexual attackers by clothing that Western men have grown up to live with. Of course, nothing says that Western men can't enjoy the view and I think the chador or veil is a very attractive and sexy garment, anyway!
James Silverton, Potomac, USA
If i see a lady wearing skimpy clothes, i'd probably love the sight. But what if a rapist out on parole also sees her? Thats why dress modestly. Simple. Fact. Truth.
Faz, London,
I am surprised that the Professor misses out one of the single most important drivers of women's clothing in the present day - namely the fashion industry.
When she talks of what 'clothing has been about', she should acknowledge that nowadays it is a high margin, frequently purchased product which women feel the need to keep changing due to changes in fashion.
Haider, London, UK
Used to hide and conceal things from prying eyes. Often one can glimpse that underneath all that material the wearer is may have make up, demin, frilly socks, and the Satan of them all a pair of American branded trainers.
I saw two such young females in Tesco flicking though the latest issues of Hello and Bella magazines.
It just goes to show that what is happening on the outside does not always reflected what is going-on on the inside.
The burka is kinkiest dress code of them all! and makes a mess trying to eat Spaghetti Bolognese. Viva la Burka!
DSH, London, UK
It just goes to show men have not evolved at all , they lack self control & still see women as the weaker sex.
My question is , do people really believe Eve seduced Adam ?
I think not , all of history points to Adam being the seducer !
maggie Millington, brittany , france
"For women even more than men, clothes have always been about identity..."
This identity is impossed on women by the media. Womens identity are associated with their clothes. Clothes are specifically designed for certain functions. Different sports clothes, for sports events. Smart clothes for meetings/functions. Pyjamas for sleeping. Swimwear for swimming. Ski wear for skiing. Police clothes for policeman/women. Builders clothes for building. Zero clothes for poll-dancing/porno film making. Mini-skirts/fish-nets/high heels for re-light districts. Sheeps skin clothes for north pole adventures. veils/head coverings for Nuns/Muslim religious people...etc
Basically, what ever clothes women wear, tells males about their personality and identity. So when males see women on the streets with mini-skirts, they automatically link them with working girls, porno stars or poll-dancers. That is why they get the most attention. Men identify women from what they wear. It's natural.
Mohammed, London, UK
I think a role swap would help men reassess. For a month, for instance, men should wear only black and cover themselves completely. They should not be allowed out of the house unaccompanied. Women should try white and see if it is brighter and cooler. Then we could move away from shopping where the only comment possible might be: What a lovely shade of black.
Phil, Hong Kong,