Melanie McDonagh
We've made some changes
to The Sunday Times
Bye-bye, Roxanne. Farewell, Manor. Ta-ta, Nancy. Adieu, Giselle. Off you go, Hobo. Ave atque vale, Ramona.
The celebrity handbag is on its way out. It's one of the umpteen signs that the economy is in slowdown, that conspicuous consumption is not where we're at. Celebrity or “It” bags cost anything from 500 quid to 10,000, depending on the skin of the creature they are made from and the designer. They are the kind of accessory worn by Victoria Beckham. More than half of British women bought a handbag last year - in the case of girls aged 15 to 24, more than seven in ten - and a large number bought one that cost about a month's salary. This year half a billion pounds will be spent on swanky handbags.
One distinguishing thing about the It bags is that most of them have a name. The Nancy, for instance, is the Smythson bag, named by its director, Samantha Cameron (wife of David), after her daughter. The Giselle is the creation of the young Brit designer, Luella Bartley, for supermodel Giselle Bundchen. The Ramona is a Jimmy Choo creation. And so on. All the big fashion houses have them, signature bags that - together with make-up and perfume - constitute a bigger percentage of their profits than clothes.
Now, according to the retail forecaster Mintel, their era is drawing to a close. Or at least demand is slowing and women are thinking about buying the high street take on couture bags, or eco-friendly versions, rather than the things themselves.
If you are a man, this phenomenon may have passed you by. You may have noticed that your wives or girlfriends, if high maintenance, are wearing bags of inordinate size, possibly in scary purple or green. But the nice distinction between, say, the Blow Bag - Alexander McQueen's tribute to Isabella Blow - and the Bay Bag by Chloé, is likely to be lost on you.
Which is tragic for the women concerned, because they cost £985 and £886 respectively. As so often in fashion, the phenomenon is down to women buying to impress other women.
I hate them. There is something morally repulsive about an accessory that costs so much for such a short lifespan. A couple of generations ago a woman might have bought a Hermès Kelly bag as a lifetime investment. Now you buy a designer bag for a season. The style guru, Tamasin Doe, former fashion director of InStyle magazine, puts the street life of an It bag at about six months. After that it loses its status value.
There will always be enough Russian oligarchs' girlfriends to keep the top end of the market afloat. But if normal women are starting to shun It bags, it's either bad news for the Chancellor or a welcome sign that an entire sex is coming back to its senses.
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Expensive bags aren't all necessarily it-bags. Things like the Hermés Birkin and the classic quilted Chanel flap bag will always be stylish - not fashionable, stylish. I know I'll still be carrying my Chanel bag in 20 years and perhaps hand it on to a daughter one day... So while it-bags may be over, luxury never will be.
Claire, Paris,
Why is it that, as commenter Laura points out, men can spend many times the cost of a handbag on a new car every year, and let's not even start discussing the cost of prestige watches, but women spend money that they've earned on something they like and it's the end of civilisation?
Miriam, London,
I've no wish to carry around a 20-year-old handbag, any more than I'd want to wear 20-year-old shoes! My current (modern) bag was 10 quid from a market stall and does the job just fine. Next year, I might even splash out on another!
Alys, Colchester, UK
Last week I saw Jeremy Clarkson explaining why why a man should pay an extra £50,000 for the better model of a £100,000+ car.
He forgot to mention to match girlfriend/wife's handbag.
Odtaa, Richmond, UK
You still can't find anything you've put in them, however expensive they are.
Frank Upton, Solihull,
Rats... A latest handbag has always got me off the hook at Christmas and Birthdays, now I'm going to have to come up with something else.
Bernie Gudgeon, Okehampton, Devon
There are "It" Bags and there are "IT" Bags. Most of the bags mentioned above will be dated in 10 years time. Sell all of them and get a Hermes Birkin or Kelly. Your daughters will still be carrying them 20 years from now. Or, if you are business minded, and you manage to get a hold of one, sell it online for a profit!!!
Theia, Lausanne, Switzerland
I GET IT NOW.
It is a "Stupidity Tax" on status-conscious females
DrBubb, London and Hong Kong, UK China
This passed me by.
Paul, London, UK
£1,000 on a bag? that's ridiculous. obscene, even.
what about shoes and a hat, for god's sake?
jem, london, uk
I don't think that it is necessarily about status.
I have two handbags, both of which cost under £1000, but neither of which was cheap.
They are recognisable as designer bags, but I bought them because I believe them to be classic pieces. I intend to be using my Nancy in 20 years' time and I don't think it will date. Sure, some people buy designer bags (and clothes and shoes) because they want to wear the label which I do not understand, but there are also those of us who buy beautiful pieces in much the same way as you might buy a painting or earrings. And if it costs me lots of money, well, I work hard to earn it. Surely it is no different from a man getting a new car every couple of years? I know a number of men who do just that (and have done for decades).
Laura, London,
I personally think the "It" bag aficionados are missing the point of fashion - by all means, buy an expensive bag if you like it, but why be a lemming and copy whatever some so called celebrity is wearing? People are, of course, free to spend their money as they wish, I hasten to add.
Stephanie, London,
i am a russian oligarch, very funny that you all find gbp 1000 expensive, one day your country will be my theme park
oleg, krasnoyask, russan federation
"An entire sex is coming to its senses"!? You need to stop generalising a 'gender' based on stereotypes. I care not for 'it bags' or 'what's in this season'. Your article is pseudo feminist.
Marie, Manchester, UK
"Normal women"?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
John Smith, Manchester, UK
I can't be bothered wih bags and know nothing about them. I like pockets, especially secret ones.
Mrs.Josephine Hyde-Hartley, Bacup, UK
An entire sex? But the point of these bags is that they are, by any general measure, exclusive and the "normal" women I know always thought they were ridiculous. Maybe it's different in your little media bubble, but don't think we all want to get in there with you.
Neil McF, Southampton, England
Paulina;
Let's see -- one month's after-tax pay each six months or less on a series of dress-up status tokens; I wouldn't say "free" was exactly the right term for that.
"Whacked" might be closer.
Brian H, Vancouver, BC Canada
I didn't even bother to read this article, have I made a mistake? I don't think so.
Fred, Dagg on Sea, NZ
Melanie;
The answer to your headline question is, "Doubtful." It's far likelier that the competition for points has moved on, almost certainly to something even goofier. Please investigate and report back! Especially if it turns out to be something like exposed nipple jewelery ....
;)
:D
Brian H, Vancouver, BC Canada
As someone who never has kept her brains in her handbag at 51 I would like to say men prefer women who spend their money on durable outdoor clothes and dogs.
Yvonne, Ely, UK
Can one really say that women are 'free' when we spend like this? The psychology of the neediness and drives behind this type of purchase indcates a real lack of choice and freedom. It is a sad reflection on the female gender if this is seen as 'freedom'.
Debbie, London,
I am not giving up my bag addiction, no chance! Chanel 2.55, Eel skin Jimmy Choo Carolina, Fendi jeweled baguette, Zagliani puffy. And thats just this week. Journos writing rubbish for the sake of it - have you been to Selfridges lately? Plenty of women like me getting our names down on the 'it' bag list. It so not over.
Sunita , Northwood, Middlesex
Who are these women? They must be out there but I've never met a single one.
Rachel, London,
Ah the great divide between those who embrace conspicuous consumption and those who do not... Interestingly, the moral/economic argument being advanced by the author (such as it is) is likely to be lost on those who impulsively and regularly require fresh shots of esteem to elevate themselves in the eyes of their fellow women - shopping is not a particularly rational or considered experience for many people.
Jonathan M Smith, Edinburgh, UK
Short lifespan? Perhaps this is more telling of the throwaway attitude of the author toward her clothes and accessories. Not very eco friendly is it? I for one have shoes, handbags and items of clothing for decades, and plan to own them for decades more. Classic pieces of fashion, are like classic pieces of furniture, and never go out of style. And to own a tiny piece of history, I would happily pay a few weeks of my salary. I think that women have fought quite hard for the right to spend our wages without guilt or fear of reproachment from our husbands or envious peers... I believe the young call people like this 'haters'... quite.
Siobhan Doyle, Blessington, Ireland
Don't be so judgemental. Women are free to spend 1000 quid of their hard-earned money on a handbag without having to justify this to anybody. Fantastic.
Paulina, Rotterdam,