Alice Fordham
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Here in Beirut, they love plastic surgery. They don't just love being beautiful and glamorous - though the city does have a shop that sells only gold shoes - they love the whole process of spending money to change your appearance. Beiruti hoydens go out in the evening with bandages still on their noses, to show the full-time people-watchers of Lebanon the status symbol that is having the money and leisure to make themselves even more beautiful. Older women, I am told, like to go away for a special holiday and come back all healed up. Banks here offer loans specifically for Botox or plastic surgery, which is getting cheaper. You could bounce a squash ball off the breasts at the private beaches. Surgery is a national obsession.
Now, there is something of a backlash. An exhibition of paintings has just opened, depicting women with their bandages still on, lips painted scarlet and a look on their faces that might be anything from haunted despair to indigestion. It has been received as an indictment of the shallowness of this national quest for physical perfection and the status of beauty.
Scratch a little deeper and it is not just that it is shallow for the Lebanese to be obsessed with their appearance. There is bewilderment at the morality of the rich and sociable being interested in beauty when there is so much horrific stuff happening around them. Can these people, the thinking goes, literally not see beyond the end of their noses? How can they expend so much time and effort on something so vain when, as earlier this week, there was a bus bomb in Tripoli? In May, civilians were dying in sectarian gunfights in Beirut. The violence was in Hamra, a louche and lovely party area. Within one day of the May violence dying down, the bars were open and the girls once again putting on the glitz. The mother and child who died in the violence seemingly forgotten.
The glamour pusses of downtown Beirut are the rich and lucky minority. But it is a Lebanese tendency to push aside troubles and focus on fun. Some see this as a national psychological defence mechanism. These people have endured decades of internal and external strife and they live in a country where sectarian rifts are getting deeper and, very likely, storing up trouble for the future. If they focused on what had happened and what was likely to happen, they couldn't cope. So, in Beirut at least, they go to the rooftop nightclubs or the road of bars in the beautiful, battered area of Gemmayze and make the most of the clubs that stay open no matter what the security situation.
Some are less charitable in their assessment of the mindset. “It's sick,” said a Lebanese friend bluntly. “They don't think about civilians dying, they just party, party, party.” The World Press Photo picture of the year prize in 2006 was given to an image of young beautiful Lebanese women, driving through a bombsite as if on a sightseeing tour, wrinkling their (perfect) noses. Other Lebanese friends said that in 2006, they heard people moan that the war had “ruined their summer”.
Sure, the young are vain and reprehensible, but I have sympathy with their desire to distract themselves from reality. Because, like everyone else who has come to Beirut in the summer, I am suffering from a dizzying crush on the place. And the hedonism of the gilded youth here is an indivisible part of its charm. Without the gold-shod girls and champagne-buying guys, the mixture of chaos and charm would not be nearly as intoxicating. No foreigner propping up a bar and enjoying the beautiful melting pot that is Beirut has any right to complain that the rich kids ignore the suffering and corruption.
And I am not the only foreigner sinking Lebanese rosé here this summer. The country is crawling with tourists, and all over the world you meet people whose eyes go all filmy if you mention sunrise on the Corniche. Beirut is a crazy, jewelled mosaic of the brand new and the bombed-out, of dust in the evenings and silhouetted palm trees in the morning. And the economy of this country needs tourism. While it is not a philanthropic urge that motivates Beirut's parties, the city's reputation for fun and the Lebanese reputation for charm and hospitality do attract visitors who support the many employees of hotels, shops and beaches.
So, if it is denial that fosters this charm, then it is hard to condemn it. A society that prizes artificial beauty seems superficial but it is a symptom of a coping mechanism that creates one of the most adorable cities in the world. In July, crowds gathered outside the memorial to Rafik Hariri, the prime minister assassinated three years ago. But they weren't commemorating him. They gathered in Martyrs' Square to listen to Mika, and the Anglo-Lebanese popster's slick melodies played to a euphoric crowd enjoying the zenith of one of the best Lebanese summers for years.
Because, really, what else can they do? Read up on Lebanon. This country has torn itself apart for ever; the differences are implacable. If everyone in the crowd watching Mika stopped, and sat, and started talking about their beliefs and about how to solve problems, they would probably come to blows. Everyone here has deeply held affiliations, inherited and totally incompatible with the views of their friends. Who can blame them for skirting around the issue and thinking instead about society, style and about how great they're going to look after their surgeon is finished with them?
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The story about the World Press Photo 2006 of beautiful young Lebanese women on a sightseeing tour in South Beirut has been debunked many times over. They are actually refugees coming to check the damage to their neighborhood and houses. If they look fabulous, it's not their fault. They're Lebanese!
Gert Van Langendonck, Beirut, Lebanon
Lebanon is a tourist destination.The party scene is part of the Lebanese culture.It existed way before the wars started.Yet, I do agree that lately it is being used as an escape from reality.Not only by rich people, I know some who blow their pay check in a couple of nights just party.
Omar , Ottawa,
Those who frequent the glitzy rooftop bars have exclusive access to the resources and people who can make things happen. Instead of getting their small brains together to advocate for a positive change, they wonder what they're going to wear that night. Who can blame them? I can.
Sam, Lebanon,
Whether you agree with the authors views or not, the article is very well-written and discusses a real phenomenon happening in Lebanon. For those who do not have the same opinion, well go ahead and do a better job.
Mounir Asmar, Madison, USA
Writing is constructive, especially for a country whose history book doesnt cover the last half-century. I personally feel that people should stand up for their views and what they think is right for their country, but its perfectly OK to party and have fun along the way. Right?
Mounir Asmar, Madison, USA
For those of you outraged at the criticism, have you actually read the article?
The author ends up saying that nobody has a right to criticise, least of all non-Lebanese.
Sure, there are legitimate points raised, but the author ends up defending the mindset.
Besides, criticism is healthy.
Louis, Beirut, Lebanon
First of all who r u 2 judge these people's lives when u dont know the half of what they have been through. If anything u should be praising them for being able to go about their lives the way they do after all the suffering they have seen. Next time research more carefully before u write ur article
Serena, London,
If what happened in lebanon over the years happens in the uk or the states people will not be going to plastic surgeons or clubing they all will be looking stressed and going to rehab centers and to psycholoists and correct me if I was wrong Alice...I hand it to the lebanese great survivors!!!
Rima, London,
Sorry Alice, but they're not only shallow&empty, they condemn those who refuse to be like them. Not to mention that not only they don't read, have no knowledge, but also have the audacity to argue!They dont work and have a Srilankese "housemaid"!Lebanese!! Read "Pity the Nation" from Gibran
Joumana Gebara, Ain saade, Lebanon
Sandra from Beirut, i totally agree with u!!!! How dare you generalize??You just came for a visit. Have you ever lived there? What does cheering for Mika have to do anything related to the above things you have mentioned? so now we're not allowed to enjoy ourselves?wev been morning for 3 years now!
mays , Dubai ,
Alice article is putting the finger on the wound If Lebanese accept to blame themselves about the problems & refuse to be sheep for the leaders Lebanon might again be called The Paris of the Middle East We are successful and innovative community outside Lebanon why can't we be inside
Salim-Montreal
Salim, Montreal, Canada
Lovely article, Alice. Few have been able to balance the extremes at play in Lebanon the way you did. I gave up a quiet London life for that "intoxicating melting pot" but the few periods of joy we get between bouts of tension are each worth a lifetime. Superficial? Indeed, but not in this context.
Ramsey Naja, Beirut,
Alice,
Don't we call that stereotyping? you have reflected the image of 20% of the Lebanese, did you have the chance and time to see the other 80%?
Most of the people you saw in the nightclubs are Lebanese immigrants who are top executives working around the world and enjoying their vacation.
Ibrahim Choueiry, Dubai, UAE
I predict from the last paragraph that Alice Fordham will have a successful career in peace building. All our cosmetic surgeries have made us too dumb to realize that a good talk, followed by a good collective hug, would solve all our problems! Was Aug 15 a slow news day? Gotta love Orientalism!
Nadia Houri, Beirut & Montreal, Canada
We did EVERYTHING to make our voice heard on Martyr's square. Now was the time to cheer for a successful Lebanese singer in the heart of Beirut.
Ur criticizin plastic surgery? ur country's own invention? haha, pretty ironic! Oh, & is it by magic that all those US celebrities keep lookin younger?
Sandra, Beirut,
Lebanon has so much passion it is palatable! Vibrant and sincere dedication to perseverence in spite of peril is evident in its religions,food,traditions and its desire to embrace life in all its botoxed beauty and other unique expressions of self. Allow it to begin its redefinition toward peace!
Rob Miketa, Brussels, Belgium
Hello Alice
When I got married I never thought what the words, "for better for worse" might entail. I have witnessed killings, bombings, suffered death threats, cried with mourning relatives, but ultimately raised four beautiful, sane children. Life has to go on. You visited, we live.
Yvonne Stead Nasr, Beirut, Lebanon
If Lebanese didn't try to have fun they would commit suicide with all the problems inside and inflicted upon from the west and east and all countries making profits out of countries like beautiful Lebanon.
tania, london, uk
Lebanon is really one the best and most beautiful countries in the world , and for those who don't know about this amazing country , they are really missing some incredible beauty sites , and an amazing lifestyle.......
Ghady, Beirut, Lebanon
Forty two years ago, Lebanon was exactly as it is described in this article. The arrogance, corruption, self-absorption, and westward outlook of the wealthy elements is precisely what led to the civil war. Living in a state of denial is not cute or appealing, and does nothing to heal Lebanon.
Michelle King, Houston, USA
Lebanon is my life. Christians, Jews and Muslims we live together in Lebanon in Beirut. Lebanon is not a terrorist country. Lebanon has always been pro-west.
Chris Antoine Beiruti, Beirut, Lebanon
I love Lebanon my country cause it is the country of contradiction. If Lebanon is not like this, Lebanese people will not be motivated to built new life for the future.
Beirut one day will be back and called Paris of the Middle East. All what Lebanon need is the Peace with his neighbor.
Mark Sawaya, Montreal, Canada