Janice Turner
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Recently, while it was being extended into an intergalactic megastore, my local supermarket closed for a whole week. This major event happened to coincide with a malfunction in my fridge. The perfect opportunity, I thought, to shop as green campaigners beseech us. I’d pop into the local butcher, fishmonger, deli and greengrocer, make foody badinage, inquire what was in season, sniff tomatoes, squeeze melons. Since nothing would keep in my lousy icebox, I had to do this every day, just like a frugal Fifties housewife or an Italian mamma.
I preen myself as being a virtuous cook-from-scratch paragon (except for pastry and custard) but after seven days of popping and chatting, sniffing and squeezing, I was exhausted, bored and had achieved very little else. The morning our store reopened and the fridgeman cometh I was down those aisles like a deranged pensioner in Supermarket Sweep. Modern life may be rubbish, but it is magnificently convenient. And to pull away from the force field of its comfort and ease, takes a stronger will than my own.
This week modern life claimed two far more significant victories. Despite £220 million in government investment, 30 per cent fewer children are eating school meals now that Jamie Oliver has insisted they are healthy. Another £119 million government scheme to give a daily piece of fruit to every child aged between 4 and 6 does not, it seems, establish an enduring apple habit.
And because the free carrot isn’t working, there have been calls for the stick: Oxford University’s Department of Public Health has suggested a tax on junk food. But will, say, £1 on a ready-meal make people cook fresh food? Would doubling the price of doughnuts make us prefer grapes? Or would it just ratchet up the financial stress for the (probably low-income) bearer of the shopping basket? There is not a child in state school who is not fluent in nutrition. I have sat through at least three class assemblies on healthy eating, often being lectured on the evils of fat and sugar by small children with straining waistbands.
Britain’s children are not fat for lack of scaremonger food-labelling, education or government initiatives. They are fat, because we are fat. We are fat, because modern life makes us fat. And while we beat ourselves up about our rancid British snack-and-go eating habits, our lack of Mediterranean menus, we should remember that a third of children in Italy and a quarter in Spain are overweight. And, counter to its culinary arrogance, France is set to have the same proportion of enormous enfants as horreur! America by 2020. French mothers are serving more ready meals and le dîner, which once stretched over several dainty courses and 88 minutes, is now consumed in just 38, often in front of the telly.
Moreover, according to the World Health Organisation, child obesity is now common in Mexico, Peru, Thailand, Morocco and industrialised China. Most bizarrely, in parts of Africa three times as many children are obese as suffer from malnutrition.
Wherever people move to cities, they earn a little more money and do not need always to toil over stoves. They can buy fast-food from stalls, which is less effort, and, anyway, children programmed to gorge on fats prefer it. They can’t afford many treats for their kids, but an ice-cream or a cola brings a smile, so why not one every day? Eventually they can afford labour-saving devices, microwaves, Hoovers. Their lives are less wearying and drudge-ridden. Sanitation means they don’t need to fetch water; public transportation ensures they no longer walk many miles to work. Modern life, progress, mean effort declines, yet our appetites remain undiminished.
Then culture reaches our present rung of development, where in order to be thin it is necessary to run counter to every prevailing social force. Few of us do manual work, so we must contrive to replicate hod-carrying or steeplejacking in a gym. I puff around the park not to get slim but to avoid getting any bigger, otherwise at my desk I wouldn’t burn enough calories to ever enjoy pudding. Exercise is rarely integral to our daily lives; we have to insert it artificially, to “make time” for a workout. No wonder it feels such a fag.
We do drive short distances, rather than walk, not because we are lazy but because we can afford the petrol, so why would we not? To be slim in the modern world requires 24-hour discipline, a constant denial of the most convenient, delicious, alluring, instantly satisfying option. Moreover, even if we manage to maintain our own iron will, how do we police our children? How do we instill the unfashionable virtue of self-denial? It is irksome always to say “no”, when your instinct is to delight those you love. Grandparents would once slip kids a bag of chocolate buttons: now their indulgence runs to a tree-trunk Toblerone.
These days even middle-class children are pretty fat. In our age of plenty, the fridge is forever full. Fat kids are an embarrassment: they make their parents look weak, irresponsible and chavvy. We envy those whose progeny are picky eaters. Yet it is not the done thing to tell a six-year-old “no, you can’t have pizza, because you’re getting man boobs”. In particular, parents of girls oscillate between horror at the obscene bulge beneath the crop top, to terror that a misjudged word might incubate anorexia: both outcomes of affluence.
I am always asking my sons, before they slip another slice of bread in the toaster: “Are you really hungry?” because they can’t be, but then how would they ever know? Of course, kids will sneak out of school, away from Oliver’s broccoli bakes, while they have cash for KFC. Children won’t demand apples from parents when the free school fruit has ended if they’re offered Jaffa Cakes. Kids don’t think about coronary bypasses and type 2 diabetes. They live in the moment, in the mouthful.
Obesity is reaching such proportions that public health is surely coming to a crossroads. Persuasion and education are ineffectual. We either have to become totalitarian. Ban the sale of certain foods outright, perhaps fizzy drinks, whose empty, chemical calories make children fat without even making them feel full. Make school meals free, healthy and compulsory until 18, dole out free fruit to all primary children, start every school day with Soviet-style mass exercise.
If not, then we need to reflect that history is full of worse fates than ordering up a bigger size of trouser, then eating ourselves to death.
Janice Turner joined The Times in 2003 from The Guardian, and writes mainly, but not exclusively, on family matters and women's issues. Her column appears on Saturdays
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whenever the fat debate raises it's head, which is quite often now, the is the usual clamour from the faty-haters, Where have these people developed such a rabid hatred of all things fat?
richard, worcester,
I agree with Tessa. We all have choices and to say modern life makes us fat is no more than an excuse. But lets be honest shall we?
The fact is the British are greedy and lazy. Yes some work hard but they are in debt, blame others for their problems and then run off to the pub to drown their sorrows. We produce shoddy goods (always have), charge the earth and then we, the public are stupid enough to pay for it! I would not buy a house in the UK for half the money. They simply are not worth it!
Get a grip Britain - stop whinging and be responsible for your own situation!
Richard, Plymouth,
Janice Turner asks - "How do we instill the unfashionable virtue of self-denial?"
Answer: by being consistent right across the board, not least by refusing to legitimise chronic sexual indulgence. That's why I'm not hopeful of our chances of success.
Dan Baynes, Barton Seagrave,
I've thought as much myself, although you'd still have fat people, only where there is starvation do you not get any. As for the class element, those with ASBO's seem to be mainly, thin.
B.Adu , London, UK
I don't see going to the gym a chore, I see it as fun - I meet my friends there, we do a class together - we chat. I am size 8-10 and most of the women in my aerobics class are slimmer than me.
I don't LIKE chocolate, cakes and biscuits, I don't have a sweet tooth - I don't think eating fresh fruit and vegetables and cooking meals from scratch is a chore, it is enjoyable for all the family.
Stop making the lowest common denominator the norm - acknowledge that a bit of self-discipline can make the difference - who knows once you start to see a difference in the wobbly bits you might start to enjoy it.
Cassius, London,
I am sorry, Jaice, but i do not agree with you.
I am Italian, and most italian mothers work and do not spend their life cooking at home, that's a very old stereotype, like the english women closing their eyes and thinking about England, during sex.
Since I was 14, when i returned home, i would cook my own steak and pasta, because my mother was working full time.
I never saw an obese child in Italy, where did you get the 30% number, in your dreams?
Obesity is caused by lazy parents who do not train their children what to eat and when.
GUY, DENVER, CO
Sally, 100 years ago no one needed sports fields or swimming pools to stay healthy.
Exercise should be built into your daily routine or it's unlikely to work - yes that means leaving the car at home and walking.
Thomas Maxwell, Redhill, UK
We're lucky enough to live in France with our three children. While I'm sure Janice's research into French eating habits is impeccable, it's interesting that there is only one fast food outlet within a 20 mile radius of us (a forever empty McDonald's) and not a single fat kid in their playground.
Not to be preachy, but surely any parent can simply outlaw fast food and cooking good meals doesn't have to be the fag that Janice describes: get the kids involved, they love cooking. One last thought, it would be more than my life is worth to try and deprive the kids of their sweets, but not allowing fizzy drinks over the threshold not only means they tend to drink water or OJ instead, but they aren't bouncing off the walls on the sugar and caffiene rush either.
Martin Howard, Lot et Garonne , France
Nature never intended families to live in big cities, and have food delivered to them. They should be out in the fields, chasing after the food.
DAVID VINTER, Louth, Lincs., uk.
"The corporate greed that sees playing fields sold off and swimming pools bulldozed, particularly of course, outdoor swimming pools. "
It was government and local government that sold off land. Can't blame it on corporate greed burt rather on government deceit and incompetence.
Neil Murphy, cromer,
One way of preventing children from getting overweight is to give them fixed portion meals, no second helpings of anything except vegetables and fruit. Far too many parents act like short-order cooks instead members of the family at mealtimes. Never ask children if they are hungry, but give them their meals at regular intervals. Don't ask them what they want to eat - you're the parent, it's your job to decide what your children eat.
Many parents I know constantly offer their children food and drinks. It seems to be a modern way of showing affection, negating boredom, keeping them quiet and so on. We don't spend enough time with our children, and then overfeed them when we're home. Food is no substitute for real parenting.
Sarah N., London,
Many of Janice's points are valid, but not all. I don't remember many obese kids when I was at school in the post-war austerity era. But we certainly had water, hoovers and public transport. Among the main things we didn't have were fast food and cars. School dinners were grim but not, as I recall, high in fat, and mum always cooked a proper meal, with fresh -if basic - ingredients in the evening.
Cars are to blame for many modern evils, and motoring should be more expensive. Janice seems to think it's a chore to make a short trip on foot - if she'd try it sometime she might find she enjoys the exercise and mingling with real people, instead of coping with traffic and parking problems.
Barry, Wallington, UK
as you mentioned, as technology have been developing constantly , stationary of person is increasing .in that connection , person's muscles can't use calories for his or her body.by that , these calories are stored in our body.this stuation can lead to emerge collestrol risk. at the same time , this stuation is important risk for obesity.because as possible as we can do sport prugencies such as once two day .besides this , we should not give everything to hands of technology .that is to say we ougt to reverse this trend .
tevfik, ankara , turkey
My kids say that they prefer today's school meals to the way they were before Jamie Oliver. Now they are interesting - before they were covered in a patina of grease.
My oldest went to a supermarket we do not usually visit to buy cat litter and she said that there were three aisles with pasta products. What chance being slim for shoppers in that place?
At the same time supermarkets now sell such a range of healthy foods, such as soups. fruit, veg and ready cooked veg dishes that eating healthily has never been easier.
If we had more parks and open spaces perhaps walking and playing in the open would be an option available to those crammed into tiny flats and houses without gardens.
er, Croydon, England
The key to avoidance of the displacement activity which much routine eating has become is to fill out a balanced lifestyle with activities which in themselves take away opportunity for distraction eating.
Rather than doing exercise as such (unless for social interaction), there are many everyday ways of using energy. Stairs, walking and carrying not only use energy but help avoid muscle atrophy. A folding bicycle will fit into the tiniest apartment.
Simple self-prepared meals eaten slowly can be titillating to the most jaded of taste buds when contrasted with nothing as the alternative or a detox soupânâveg day.
dr venables preller, Warminster, UK
As per WHO research, obesity shall be the most silent killer disease in the days to come. It leaves behind a trail of other health disorders like diabities, heart problems, CAD etc. We are paying a very heavy price. Especially our kids and younger generation are getting prone to many middle-age ailments, due to early obesity and unhealthy food habits.
Why are our kids and youngsters growing fat and bulky in their pre-teen years ?
1.Undoubtedly excssive consumption of junk food like Burgers, Pizzas, doughnuts, desserts, ice creams,and fizzy cola drinks add much more calories to their bodies than being consumed by their metabolic activities.
2.Add on to this, is the sedentary life styles.Few decades back, kids would prefer playing outdoor games, doing physical activities and spending more time in the lap of nature and its environment. But, kids of generation next are more apt and glued to computers, i-pods, play stations and cyber gizmos with least mobility.
It's time to rethink??
sandy, New Delhi, India
People like you, (articles like yours), make me despair...full of excuses for their own lacks and passing the buck of responsibility somewhere else. Grow up and take responsibility for yourself and any children you might have and stop blaming society and modern life for any lack of self control. If people are fat, they're fat because of the life choices they make, if their children are fat, they're fat because parents let them be. None of my friends are fat, neither are their children, but it is because of the choices they make and the effort that they make on behalf of their own well being and that of their children. People don't walk short distances not because they can afford the petrol, but because they ARE, in fact, lazy, they make that choice. You can dress it up as much as you like in words, ie it's more convenient, saves times, I can afford it. The bottom line is laziness and the decision that good health and appropriate weight are not important enough priorities in life.
Tessa Jane Webster, Roma, Italy
could not the production of "fizzy" drinks be curtailed due to their co2 content ? I presume, maybe wrongly, that the gas released every time one of the many millions of cans and bottles is opened is artificialy manufactured co2. Without the fizz kids may go off these sugary cocktails.
I also believe " work" is the answer to many of our ills . it makes us fit, burns energy in a productive way, releases happy hormones and gives us a sense of purpose,especially if done as a group activity.
jonathan charles gale, lymington, england
no were are educated to be fat,from cradle to grave intv land,ask a mother the first time tv entertained their child.Today its a brave person who stands up to the new alpha woma.
michael joseph heavey, cahersiveen, ireland
The truth is that people are so tired at the end of the day that they're not going to spend another three hours on their feet cooking a nutritious meal. There's also the problem of depression. If you have nothing to look forward to, ( low pay affording very little), food serves as a comforter. Let's face it, the quaility of life was a lot better 30 years ago, with communities sharing more and people having more time for each other and diet was also better. We need to change our society if we are to change people's attitude to food.
Judy , Liverpool, england
The traditional Japanese diet of fish, rice, veggies and soup has also taken an almost fatal hit from the fast food industry. I'm appalled at the stuff most people eat, no kidding Japan must have one of the worst diets in the developed world.
Most people live on a conbination of supermarket packed meals, instant noodles and McDonalds.
Dave, tokyo, Japan
Have you seen a fat bookseller? Neither have I. And I'll tell you something, they have huge appetites.
Physical work is the key, not bans or taxes on junk food.
Ban escalators or lifts (ok ok except for the disabled), or better charge for each ride up or now. Those who take the lift just one floor up or down will have to pay the most.
may, london,
I am English, but I spent the last year living in a town in the mountains of Guatemala with a largely indigenous Mayan population. There are hardly any fat children there, and very few fat men (under the age of 30). Most of the men work in physical jobs, construction or agriculture. There is also not a lot of money, and people largely consume fresh produce that is produced on surrounding farms. Most people under 30 also have excellent teeth, most likely due to not consuming fizzy drinks etc.
I read a Terence McKenna book where he asserted that the most dangerous substance to hit the West is not heroin, cocaine, LSD, etc, but sugar. I don't see why such harmful products should not be banned. After all, one line of cocaine doesn't instantly kill you, but we choose to make it illegal, isn't the same equally true of Big Macs, Krispy Kreme donuts, and Coca-Cola? Maybe shops should not be allowed to sell junk food/fizzy drinks to children under 16.
Jason Kennedy, antigua, guatemala
One of the causes of obesity is greed: not for food but for land.
The corporate greed that sees playing fields sold off and swimming pools bulldozed, particularly of course, outdoor swimming pools.
Central government has done nothing to protect either: school playing fields continue to disappear and Sport England have not given a single grant to an outdoor pool in the last decade.
Local councils then look at the message that central govt is sending out and respond in kind: how easy it is to save money by closing a pool or two, or by falling back on the excuse that leisure provision is not a statutory part of a council's duties.
Inevitably this backfires: money "saved" by closing pools and selling fields will be spent three times over on the ill health caused by obesity, diabetes, heart failure and so on. Authorities both local and central should act now to reverse this trend.
Sally Wainman, Ipswich, Suffolk, England