Magnus Linklater
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On a clear day, beneath the slopes of the Matterhorn, you can see for yourself the retreat of the alpine glacier – the most vivid example I know of global warming in action. My map of the area, published seven years ago, shows the ice sweeping down the whole north face of the mountain. Today the glacier has shrunk to half its size. In another seven years, say locals, the great wall of ice that, in 1861, prompted the Victorian mountaineer Edward Whymper to describe the “terror of its invincible appearance” could well have disappeared altogether.
It is not the only example. Along the Haute Route, which runs from Chamonix to Zermatt, we saw whole valleys, scoured and black, littered with the debris of broken rocks, left in their wake by steadily melting glaciers.
You might imagine, therefore, that the Swiss, for whom the mountains are the very soul of the country, would be impassioned in their defence of the environment. That combination of stern efficiency and national diligence which ensures that their trains run silently and on time, their streets are swept clean and even their mountain paths are carefully mowed, must surely place Switzerland in the forefront of the campaign to cut carbon emissions.
You would be wrong. High on the slopes above Zermatt, we came upon evidence that, even here, the defence of a profitable tourist industry takes precedence over the need to protect the natural environment. In the midst of a complex network of brilliantly engineered hydroelectric systems, designed to keep the towns and villages of the southern Alps supplied with power, stood row upon row of brand new snowmaking machines, ready for the next skiing season. Sometime in late autumn they will be transported to the fashionable ski resorts of Verbier, Zermatt and the rest, where early snow is desperately short, and used to manufacture a few more hectares of the white stuff so that this year’s tourists can be gulled for one more year at least into imagining that global warming is just an illusion and that the slopes will forever remain glistening and pure.
As an example of chronic and pig-headed frivolity, the snow machine has a lot to answer for. It is wasteful, energy-inefficient and environmentally indefensible. A single ski resort needs as much electricity as a small village just to keep its snowmaking systems going, and they are insatiable consumers of water. To cover one hectare (or 2.5 acres) of a snow slope, which may last less than a day, a snowmaking system needs 880 gallons of water; to cover all of the slopes in the Alps that have artificial snowmaking facilities, the annual demand has been estimated at 20 billion gallons of water, or enough to satisfy the needs of a city of 1.5 million inhabitants. Because alpine resorts are, despite their icy surroundings, often short of water, these precious supplies must either be stored on site or ferried up by helicopter. The Swiss, veteran users of airborne travel, favour the latter. The French dig reservoirs. The Austrians do both.
It would be hard to conjure up a more potent symbol of environmental perversity than the use of carbon-spewing fossil fuels to help to dispose of millions of gallons of carefully extracted water in order that a few thousand tourists can slide down a slope for an extra week. The OECD, which has been monitoring the skiing industry, last year produced a dry but devastating report entitled Climate Change in the European Alps, from which these figures are extracted. Its editor, Shardul Agrawala, is diplomatic, but firm, in his conclusions. “It is critically important to factor in the[se] environmental implications, and not just operational costs, in making decisions about artificial snowmaking,” he said.
This is, as you may suspect, more than simply an alpine issue. For some reason, sport, leisure, wildlife and the general pursuit of happiness remain impenetrable barriers to perfectly sensible attempts to introduce alternative sources of energy and stem the ravages of climate change. In Scotland, the expansion of the wind farm industry has been slowed and often halted by objections that range from complaints that too many pylons spoil the view to suggestions that the occasional absent-minded hawk might collide with a propeller. In Perthshire, where the inhabitants of Dunkeld are proposing an energy-efficient and well-landscaped hydroelectric scheme on the River Braan, the plans have been thrown out by the National Environment Agency because the river is used by a few dozen canoeists every year.
Yet if we take the warnings about climate change with any degree of seriousness, we have to change our terms of reference. Instead of hailing the inventiveness of the ski resort that makes its own snow, we should accept the harsh reality that nature has terminally curtailed the skiing season. Much as we cherish our birds of prey, we should remember that their prospects of survival are threatened not so much by a freak collision as by the three-degree rise in global temperatures that will occur in the next 50 years if we do not manage to wean ourselves off a reliance on oil and gas. Stuff the skiers, sink the canoeists, gag the bird-lovers; this is a battle for survival, not an exercise in self-indulgence.
And, since you ask, no, I am not cancelling my next skiing trip. But I intend to go where the snow is actually snow rather than nucleated water forced out under pressure through an atomising nozzle, and the hiss of the skis is not drowned out by the ugly growl of some alien machine trying to persuade me that, even though the glacier is melting and the ice is retreating everywhere else, here we can still pretend that we are living in the time-warped artifice of a winter wonderland.

Magnus Linklater's journalistic career spans 40 years, taking him from editor of Londoner's Diary at the Evening Standard to editor of Spectrum and the Colour Magazine at The Sunday Times and editor of The Scotsman. He joined The Times in 1994 and writes a weekly column on Wednesdays. He was chairman of the Scottish Arts Council from 1996 to 2001, and often writes on Scottish issues
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I noticed a commentor invoke the word anthropocentric. That is exactly what the human race is. We tyrannize the planet. We ravage ecosystems and biodiversity. We massacre wildlife species with utter ruthlessness. Back to the point. We invariably prioritize tourism at the expense of nature conservation.
Brien Comerford, Glenview, United States
"...50 years if we do not manage to wean ourselves off a reliance on oil and gas"
Do you actually think there will be any (affordable) oil and gas left in 50 years time (Hubbert's Peak Oil predictions)? Pumping the wells dry will sort out the issues as far as the link between burning fossil fuels and climate change is concerned. What happens to civilisation as we currently know it when the oil has gone is another question.
KuleKat, Winchester, UK
polar ciites
danny bloom, Chiayi, Taiwan
The idea that there is one particular spot on the earth where we can see the results of 'global' warming tells us all we need to know about this particular modern superstition.
Richard Ashton, Maidstone,
Switzerland needs no lectures on its social and environmental credentials. Swiss cities enjoy such clean air as a result of the finest integrated public transport systems you'll find anywhere. Commuting by car is the exception rather than the rule. Waste recycling to the nth degree is standard and universal and real social democracy is held very close to the Swiss heart. They just don't shout about it as much as some others.
David Masu, Zürich,
In the words of this very article "the harsh reality that nature has curtailed the skiing season". Not man, nature. Man has as little to do with climate change cutting down our skiing now as Georgian carbon emissions had to do with the curtailing of skating on the Thames.
Climate change will happen (or not) whether we cut down our carbon emissions or not. Which said, I have to agree with the writer - the days of the alpine resorts are numbered, and all snow machines are doing is prolonging the inevitable long enough for the farsighted to sell up!
Phil, Sevenoaks,
If you are going to quote weights and measures in support of an argument, please could you exercise some consistency of standard: Since you are using hectares as your primary measurement of area it would be appropriate to use litres as your primary measurement of volume. As it stands it is not clear whether you are referring to Imperial gallons or U.S. gallons.
Tim Simpson, Surbiton, Surrey
These "absent-minded hawks" have to dodge the tips of the blades coming into their 'clear air space' at up to 200mph!
There is no hard evidence that wind turbines actually make a difference other than the oft repeated mantra coming from wind turbine salesmen and women!
Andrew H Mackay, Tain, Ross-shire, Scotland
Why berate the Swiss?
Why not have a moan at the huge developments in Dubai? Extremely eco-friendly, that! Especially with all the water needed for the six-star hotels, and even an indoor skiing space - in the desert ...
V. Evans, Cardiff,
Where In the world I wonder, is Mr Linklater planning his ski trip where he will encounter "snow that is actually snow"? Whilst I certainly agree that a few people with specialist leisure interests (skiers, twitchers, canoeists et al), should not not be able to set caveats for dealing with the problem of global warming lest their pursuits be interfered with, I find his stance puzzelling since he appears to be planning his next ski trip to colder climes, presumably further afield than Europe, perhaps North America, where unless he rows there, will surely spew forth additional carbon emmissions as he heroically in his mind, jets his way to carving up and compacting an environment elsewhere, where there is real snow and thus being " gulled for one more year at least into imagining that global warming is just an illusion and that the slopes"(where he is) "will forever remain glistening and pure.".
Rob Davis, Camberley, uk
Great article - this is exactly the kind of thinking we need if we want to really protect the environment and wean ourselves off fossil fuels. So many people are living in a bubble at the moment where they daily ignore the impact their behaviour and the current economic system has on the environment. The snow-free Alps are a warning sign that we should all heed and yet still the uninformed witter on about climate change being "cyclical" and waiting "for the science to be in". Well, the snowy Alpine slopes have existed for millenia as we know since the frozen, preserved corpses of Neolithic hunters have been found there. If it is not a monumental change for these slopes to be suddenly become free of snow and ice in the last decade, then what is it? A slight blip of unseasonably warm weather?
MB, Edinburgh,
please do not forget that two years ago we had snow at 600m.from January 18th to end of March non-stop.
fusun boyner, brent, switzerland
The Swiss have got it right. Humans have always reacted to environments they don't like by changing them. I imagine most people reading this are wearing clothes and inside a building, which illustrates the point.
One of the great ironies of the global warming enthusiasts is that they assert that we change change the climate - first in one direction, then in the other. But then they hate technology solutions, like nuclear power. Or snow cannons to protect local industry.
Stephen, London, UK
Er... retreating is what glaciers do, what they have always done. That is why Loch Lomond is no longer under a mile of ice.
Sean Hunter, Glasgow, UK
Hypocrite! As Zermatt has some of the highest skiing in Europe you will be using that environmentally friendly aircraft to get you to the actual snow somewhere outside Europe.
jimd, Norwich, UK
This is a big problem - environmentalists getting caught up on the trivial details when there's a huge elephant in the room.
Environmental effects of snow making are trivial when compared with things like actually getting to the resort, normal day-to-day living, etc.
If we're not careful, we'll have curtailed our enjoyment of myriad activities just to save 1% of our CO2 output.
Rich, Houston, US
Calling it pig-headed frivolity to maintain ski slopes with snow makers is harshly judgemental. Do you measure everybody by your perception of their frivolous output of carbon dioxide? It is not an environmental issue to make snow articially. The carbon dioxide is not pollution, though the support of the ski village probably is a pollution source, but these people are going to live, work and play somewhere, so it's just a question of venue in this case.
Boxorox, Annapolis, MD
I intend to live today, the world will change, it has always changed and we are but a blip on it, just another element on it!
The new religion, in fact the replacement of it seems most of the other estabilished (christianity, communism, 60s &70s hippism) religions, does not make any more sense than islamism, actually they both seem to demand A STOP TO PROGRESS, FREEDOM AND PROSPERITY!
Jondi, london, uk
Sure Markus just go higher and higher in your cable car to enjoy the spreading destruction of the Alps. The climate swindle can be used to take decadent ski tourists higher and higher. Money is to be made out of this climate hoax.
Ton Biesemaat, The Hague, The Netherlands
How do we know what is causing the glacier to melt and erode? It's a huge assumption to state that Man is to blame and an even greater assumption to suggest we can control it.
Has the glacier always been there? Of course the planet has entered into an ice age (and emerged from it) in the past when - thankfully - the words "carbon footprint" and "man made global warming" did not exist.
The planet changes, always has done, and always will do. There are so many factors involved and too many scientists (on both sides of the debate) are motivated by job security and money to offer what I believe is an impartial view. Quite simply I think there are too many variables to state who or what is responsible.
Of course we should conserve resources and recycle, but the arrogant assumption that we can control the climate of the planet offends me. Mother nature is, and always will be, far more powerful than Man.
The biggest threat to the future of life on Earth is an asteroid strike.
Tom Birkert, London,
Well said. I can't believe there are still people and companies who are choosing to ignore the facts regarding climate change, it's selfish and massively destructive.
Look at the flooding across England and the rest of the World, this is freak weather! It is us and future generations that will pay for our needless and wasteful consumption of energy.
We need educate our fellow citizens and push governments to take action.
deletetechnique, somewhere,
Well... Artificial snow has been used in the Alps for the last 25 years at least. Its purpose is not only to facilitate skiing at times of scarce snow (beginning and end of the season, winters low on snow), but also to protect the surface below the slope against erosion. Yes, it does cost energy and resources, but unfortunately most tourism related infrastructure does so. What about the enormous amounts of energy needed for all those airconditions in hotels in Mediterranean countries, or the Carribean (let alone the water issues)? And what about the recent extravagancas established in the Gulf region (e.g. the hotel towers and artificial islands in Dubai?) with the acclaim of tourism journalists enjoying their promotion trips there. By the way, where does Mr. Linklater intend to go, where "snow is still snow"? Perhaps to some as of yet "untouched" area in a more far away region (e.g. Ural mountains, or somewhere in the Americas), thereby spending even more energy on travel alone?
Andreas Ottitsch, Penrith, UK
You are right, Magnus. Time to start abandoning the skiing concept. It's all been spoilt by snowboarders, anyway!
Howard, Johannesburg, South Africa
Driving back through the green and pleasant land that was France last week, I idly got to wondering what happened about that last big environmental scare that was supposed to wipe us all out - whatever happened to acid rain?
Brian Meredith, Hove, U.K.
A few points:
1) Glacier size is far more dependent upon the climate conditions of when the snow was falling which went into the glacier than today. Therefore the state of a glacier is more an indication of climate conditions a hundred years ago or more, than they are of recent change.
2) Climate change is not a real problem long term for the ski industry in the Alps. Stand on top of a ski field and look up at how much highter the mountains go. Those areas are not developed because they are too damn cold. If the world warms the ski fields need just be moved up the mountain. Ergo Swiss apathy.
3) The World is on average short of fresh water. Northern Europe is NOT. It has a massive surpless. There is no viable mechanism whereby saving water in the UK (or Switzerland) can be used to help people who don't have enough in Africa or Australia. Therefore spewing water out of hoses may seem wasteful, but what else are you going to do with it?
Think first write second.
Will, Cambridge, UK
This argument may hold more water (excuse the pun) were it not for the fact that Swiss eletcricity production is 60% hydro-electric and 40% nuclear thereby creating little or no carbon emissions whatsoever.
Admittedly, without the snow-making machines the Swiss could export their clean power to other less environmentally conscientous countries, but it seems a bit unfair to blame Switzerland when they are doing considerably more than most to protect the planet.
Phil M, Zurich,
I agree with magnus linklater. Another so called sport that he might look at is Motor racing and motor rallies that take place across the world, a multi billion dollar industry and for what,it proves nothing, it burns fuel and rubber, its distructive and certainly not environmently friendly. The fumes polute and are breathed by the millons that get close to it plus the spectators cars all churning out poisoness gas plus the rest of the backup at these events. no doubt money and power speaks especially amongst politicians.The will have to be a few major changes and attitude before I am persuaded to become green
at home
hugh dickinson, Perth, western Australia
"And, since you ask, no, I am not cancelling my next skiing trip."
That says it all really, doesn't it, despite the disclaimer.
Adam Jackson, Freetown, Sierra Leone
Lots of bad science here. The 'three degrees in 50 years' guess is just a weather forecast, not really a scientific opinion but rather an opinion of scientists; warmer weather would mean more, not less birds of prey; the water used for artificial snow doesn't just go away, and it will evaporate more slowly when it is frozen; etc etc.
Frank Upton, Solihull,
Ha ha what amuses/amazes me is the number of 'bright' people who still don't seem to GET IT! All our lives, all our expectations WILL change forever and in a very short amount of time. Frederick Davies and I live in the same city but on different planets. His remarks are classic ostrich as are most of your readers'
Chris Thomas, Oxford, England
Perhaps Magnus might share with us where he is booking this ski holiday where 'snow is actually snow', so that we too might book early and commit with confidence our hard earned cash to our recreation without brisk of disappointment, and our hissing[?] skis are not drowned out by 'ugly growls'
I presume too that he will be travelling by train or coach from London, and perhaps shunning mechanical uplift?
The proper solutions to the problem he outlines are eco-friendly power sources for snow making, water storage and recycling
Otherwise maybe we will have to call time on winter sports as a mass tourism activity, and return it to a wealthy - not renowned for being environmentally aware - 'elite'
john liddell, aberdeen, uk
Glaciers have shifted, shrunk or not existed at all at various times during the earth's life. How can you claim to know whether snow-making machines are causing global warming?
Tony, Rochester,
Mr Linklater's comments are all correct and to be applauded in their widest sense. Snowmaking is a bit of a soft target though. It doesn't work if its too warm anyway and is more about our modern expectation of perfect snow cover each winter after forking out several grand for our ski trip than patching up holes caused by global warming. We didn't use to expect cover to be perfect from start December to end April, now we do.
There are very few resorts with no snowmaking now so Mr Linklater will have a hard time finding one for his next trip. I think Big White in British Columbia is one, but then you have the bigger issue of flting there, which is a far bigger creater of climate change gasses.
His best bet might be to take the train to the Alps and head for the Three Valley's, the world's biggest ski area. It is a huge energy user for snowmaking but does buy in green energy to run the snowmaking and the lifts and even powers it's piste grooming machines with bio diesel.
Patrick Thorne, Inverness, UK
I hope you're not flying there.
Will, London,
It is good to know that the Swiss have seen through all this Anthropogenic Global Warming clap-trap and are not taking a blind bit of notice of it. Good for them!
Frederick Davies, Oxford, UK
so your going to go someplace else to ski, i bet that involves more traveling usually by air?
hummm, sound like a poor plan
graham, birmingham,
Another article that short on science and long on ill-founded opinion; the retreat of glaciers are due to Surface ablation (Dirt on snow) and falls in precipitation.
http://climatesci.colorado.edu/2007/07/10/a-new-paper-on-glaciers-in-the-highest-altitudes-in-the-alps/
Check the science people.
Paul Graham, Greenwich,
Surely the snowmaking comes at great financial cost to the resorts as well? Not to mention the environmental cost.
A bit of common sense should dictate that the alpine resorts of the world band together to fight the battle against climate altering emissions. Would their future not be more secure if they could depend on reliable levels of natural snow every season? Talk about failing to appreciate the long-term realities of the situation.
Tony, Sydney, Australia
Going 'where the snow is actually snow' will not help. Artificial snow is being made because there is more demand for skiing than there is natural snow available. If less people go skiing then there will be enough real snow for those who continue to ski. By skiing on real snow you're just pushing someone else onto the artificial stuff.
Nathaniel Cross, Guildford,
Sir, Perhaps you have forgotten that wherever you go skiing you will be aiding the cause of global warming just by going there. Or, have you choosen to walk or cycle there. If so, you will have no need to ski as you will have exercise enough and avoid all the ski crowds, which again increase global warming because of the infra-structure and industry they require just to be there.>Chinese say, 'He who is too hot because of global-warming should take-off ski-boots.
Wigglesworth, Gachnang,
I believe the Mont Blanc glacier is retreating. I also believe that climate since 1900 has warmed - a little. However, I don't believe either that the climate now is any warmer than during the Medieval Warm Period, or that this warming is caused by man-made CO2 emissions, or that it is in any way catastrophic.
The Hockey Stick is, unbeknown to the mainstream media, now totally discredited. If the CO2 link were valid, the mid troposphere in the tropics should be warming faster than the surface. It is not.
As to the scale of the present warming, a quick glance at www.surfacestations.org will show you that the data on which the alarmist reports rely is very shaky. Urban Heat Island effects have definitely not been allowed for.
Finally, the sea is not rising around Tuvalu. Yes, the islanders are demanding money for it. But all the data we have shows it is falling.
We need to get scientific. Mr Linklater is relapsing into instant emotive reactions and breast beating.
George Johnson, London,
"... so that this yearâs tourists can be gulled for one more year at least into imagining that global warming is just an illusion "
The end of the world is nigh!
Repent!
Repent!
With sackcloth and ashes!
John, London, UK
Good point.
Pav, London,
Come to Australia where we're having the best ski season for years. Plenty of real snow on offer, and that's no illusion. We also had our coldest morning in Sydney since 1986 yesterday. I read that summer hasn't bothered turning up in Britain this year. Perhaps it's global cooling? You heard it here first.
Phil Elmes, Sydney, Australia
Is any treatment of the symptons of global warming 'pig-headed' while treatment of the causes is the only option? Should we encourage safe sex but not treat AIDS patients because it deludes us in to not thinking its a problem?
The figure that the Alps' snow guns use enough water to satisfy a city of one city of 1.5 million (for how long you fail to say) is encouraging as a WWF report showed that in 2001, 80 million tourists visited the Alps.
You fail to understand that people have their own ways of 'pursuing happiness', like those 'bird lovers' you wish to gag. If yours is some sort of self-flagellation by trying to ski on rocks and grass then so be it! You have contributed to my own happiness by giving me the image of your proud self stuck in the mud and making the most of your winter break!
You neglected any alternatives like taxing ski passes with redistribution to environmental causes, and came off as a proper kill joy.
Why save the planet if we can't have fun on it?
Max Luthy, London (Val D'Isere), England
How will you be getting to your ski holiday destination, Magnus....?
Pete Jones, Urumqi, China