Martin Samuel
2 for 1 tickets to Casablanca, this coming Monday
On British Airways flights this summer, in what the smug set through the forward blue curtain refer to dysphemistically as goat class, travellers may quite literally be left asking: where's the beef? It was announced this week that BA is dispensing with the service of beef dishes in its economy-class cabins, in preference for fish pie or chicken and tarragon. Cost does not enter into it, BA claimed. The new meals are healthier. Lighter, too; and without religious prohibitions for all passengers.
Now one might imagine that BA would wish to look after its top-end customers as well, the ones paying the big bucks for leg room and the chance to eat olives in the lounge at 6.15 in the morning. But, no. In business and first class, passengers will still be served beef, implying that BA wishes them to be unhealthy, bloated and trapped next to a ticked-off Hindu for several hours.
Either that, or the whole thing is a scam, a rip-off, a way of cutting costs while pretending to be doing the client a favour because, let's face it, fish and pie, like chicken and tarragon, only go together when bonded by cream, meaning neither is as healthy as, say, a bit more space between seats so the guy in the middle doesn't go down with deep-vein thrombosis. Or some air not expelled from the mouth of Hades. And, as any Jew, Muslim, Hindu or vegetarian knows, meals that conform to religious belief or personal choice can be ordered in advance. That is why bacon sandwiches are handed out on early-morning shuttle flights without causing a riot.
So something is fishy and it is not just the pie. No, what we have here is space-saver wheel syndrome, or another example of the way the consumer is hoodwinked under the guise of efficiency, health, safety, security or conservation, while the reality of big business is always bottom line, bottom line, bottom line. British Airways may dissemble, but beef being available to those who wish to pay means that better living and religious sensitivity do not enter into it. Beef prices have risen from £2,500 per tonne to £4,000 per tonne in the past three months. If BA was upfront with its public, the announcement would read: if you can't afford it at home, you ain't getting it on us. At least then you would know where you stood.
Space-saver wheel syndrome started in that bastion of fair practice, the car industry, where the advent of the term “optional extra” afforded people the privilege of paying for something that had previously been treated as standard, like a radio or upholstery that did not look as if it had been stolen from the Bakerloo Line in 1963.
Then someone came up with the idea of a space-saver wheel and the penny-pinching racket really took off. The space saver replaced the old spare tyre buried in your boot, because that was just taking up room. Screw being safe and roadworthy, you thought, how can I claw back a few inches in a part of my vehicle that will never see daylight from one year to the next unless I am a drug dealer or engaged in the smuggling of tobacco products? Space savers could be fitted in place of a punctured tyre but did not have the same specification and could only be driven temporarily, and then at 50mph maximum. If you had a long motorway drive, they were hopeless.
They may have saved the company money, but to the driver they became the thin end of the wedge. Worse followed. No spare wheel, no spare tyre. These days, many cars contain a puncture repair kit, one step up from that used on old bicycles. You seal the hole with glue and re-inflate. If you have a repairable tyre, that is. If not, you are stuffed. For your own good, of course. Nothing to do with money. Nothing at all.
The bloke that towed me to Kwik Fit in Watford, once the RAC had established that my puncture was the sort that a glorified Band-Aid could not fix, really had bought the ticket. As I cursed and ranted about what a rip-off it was that cars no longer had spare wheels, how dangerous this was, how I could have been stranded had this been a country lane at midnight, not 9.30 Sunday morning on the M25, he explained, quite chattily, that a lot of cars did not have them now and he was always towing people off motorways for a simple puncture.
“It is all about performance,” he said. “You get better performance if the car is lighter.” Four words to describe my car. Big. Volvo. Diesel. Automatic. I could not be less interested in performance if I was driving a tank. Jeremy Clarkson would spit at me in the street. I no longer want to see what this baby has under the hood. I have no desire to open her up on the straight through Epping Forest. I have made my choice and it is to live out my driving years like a member of the Soviet Politburo. Better yet, like Mr Magoo. If I plough this bastard into a ditch, I'm walking away without a scratch. Now if I was being towed in a Maserati GranTurismo with a guy telling me it was fair trade for the exquisite joy of motoring, I might concur. But I am driving the equivalent of an armoured milk float and I'm up on a trailer, too. So I'm feeling gypped.
And, of course, it is dangerous. If you have a bald spare tyre you fail your MoT, but you can have no spare tyre at all and that is fine. It took two vehicles to get me off the motorway, when it might not have needed one. This could have left a family with small children stranded, or marooned a vulnerable person late at night. By law we should all have a fully operational spare wheel, not a space saver or a tube of glue. Volvo is not being straight, but neither is BA.
Nobody is on a plane for the food, but consumers at least deserve honesty. You might not know a boeuf béarnaise from a coulibiac, but you'll care soon enough if the pilot tries to land your holiday jet on space-saver wheels. For your own good, naturally. Nothing to do with money. Nothing at all.

Martin Samuel has been a sports writer and columnist for The Times since 2002. His football column appears every Wednesday and on Tuesdays he writes for the op-ed pages
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No spare wheel on my motorcycle. Should I be worried?
Simon, Brighouse,
Just should mention the condition of your spare wheel is irrelevant to your MoT and you will not fail on its condition.
Quite agree about space savers though - and I refuse to buy a car without a proper spare.
JB, Telford, UK
Just a word on re-using towels in hotels, it might be good in terms of reducing chemicals to the environment, but its essential for reducing the amount of water consumed in laundering linen. Fortunately, the practice is growing around the world, which given the demands on our water systems is good.
Undala, Cranfield, UK
Of course it's about the economy. Why do you think hotels plea with us to re-use towels? It's not to stop bleach being pumped into our rivers, it's to save them a few quid on their cleaning bills.
Nobby Clark, Perth,
I agree with the attack on BA penny pinching. You got one thing wrong though. It extends to business class as as well. On a recent interncontinental flight not only was there no meat on the dinner menu but none on the plane at all!
Ian Lang, Siena, Italy
Jamie, about the water. It seems that Airport WHSmiths always have the cheap water with newspaper deals. INo, the biggest scam is that you can't fill up an empty water bottle (fine to take these through) airside as the toilet taps are always warm water sensor-activated - no cold water.
John, Knutsford, Cheshire
BA beef is nothing compared to the security based scams. We can't take water through security at airports, and there are no drinking fountains. On my last trip I was offered a small bottle of water for £2.
If this was really a war on terror we would have laws against profiteering.
Jamie, Gtr Manchester, UK
DJ, Brill, UK
Do you honestly believe that the weight difference between a space saver and a full size wheel actually makes any real difference to the MPG of the average car?
John, Reading, uk
I relish fish, but am concerned about the flyer who is so allergic to it, that its smell makes them very ill. I gave up long ago on finding businesses that lacked greed or deception. Poverty could have been lessened much if things were different. See Majorca, land of rich, tax free, and greed.
Kyt, Ramsey, USA
I have so far steered clear of spacesavers, but it's getting very difficult.
To be fair, spacesavers save weight, for improved fuel economy and good eco figures.
Even so, punctures are usually in awkward spots or in the dead of night
DJ, Brill, UK
Tires are a lot better quality than they used to be. A few years ago a flat tire would have been by far the most common cause of a roadside breakdown but I doubt that is now the case, as long as they are in good condition and correctly inflated.
Glen, Melbourne, Australia
Of course, you could always check if your car comes with a spare wheel before buying it. But I guess our minds are too highly tuned for that, or something.
jon livesey, Sunnyvale, CA/USA