Matthew Parris: My Week
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When this week I recognised not only the region where British travellers have been kidnapped in the Danakil Depression, but the village itself — and when from the pictures of their shot-up vehicles I saw they had been been abducted from the very yard where my BBC producer, Jeremy Grange, Ethiopian guide, Solomon Berhe, and I slept alongside our own vehicles, a year ago — I thought it worth digging out our tapes.
Hamedelah (the village’s name) means Mohammad’s well: a flyblown settlement of sticks and stones by a dry river bed where thousands of camels and their drivers rest, en route to and from the salt-caked bed of the depression (an hour’s walk away) where villagers from the Afar tribe chip blocks of solid salt for the camels to carry up into the highlands. There are no roads, only tracks.
You stand at the foot of a thorn-pricked wilderness of dry mountains, rising 6,000ft up into the highlands and civilisation. With this escarpment at your back, you face east straight across the depression, 300ft below sea level: blinding white salt. To the right-hand side a smudge of inky blue-black, the dead salt lake; in the distance behind it a low, smouldering volcano, Hertale. A little to the left smoulders the crumbling rock-salt rubble of Dalol, where vivid yellow sulphur streaked with the orange of iron comes hissing out of the ground in a superheated sulphuric acid solution. Ahead and across, like an ocean, lies the salt pan, on its horizon a line of low, waterless Eritrean mountains called the Danakil Alps holding back the Red Sea. You could walk across within a day, though horribly exposed.
Near the village I met an Ethiopian called Osafa who had done so (at gunpoint) the year before, while he was making the salt-fetching journey with his camels and fellow camel-drivers. Now Osafa had only donkeys (one of which had just fallen) and a mule, all overburdened with salt. I was making a documentary, Camel Train, broadcast on BBC Radio 4 last June.
Solomon translated (simultaneously) and Jeremy tape-recorded as we walked. Here is Osafa’s story. Solomon is translating; Osafa is speaking in his Tigrina tongue. “[It was] last June. [The kidnappers] had Kalashnikov. We were nine people. Among the nine people they only took three men — I don’t know how they select them — and 15 camel. They chose the best camels because they knew they were going to take them a long distance so it will not work to take the tired camel.
“So first [we] travelled three nights and three days continuously; then after that eight nights and eight days. So the first two days [we] started to feel thirsty and [we] couldn’t get water and [we] were vomiting and [we] were exhausted.” (Here on tape I interpose my own summary of Solomon’s lengthier translation . . .)
“The thirsty and exhausted group was eventually picked up by an Eritrean army patrol, who gave them water, food and medical treatment, but because of the political and military tensions between the two countries the soldiers had little sympathy for the plight of a few Ethiopian camel-men and soon handed them back to their captors.”
[Solomon translating]: “They put [us] in prison there, after two months they brought [us] eight days and eight nights to the border of Ethiopia then they left [us] . . . then [we] were begging for food and their water and . . . asking the way to [our] area, then [we] managed to reach [our] village.”
I asked Osafa how he dared return, this year, to the same journey. [Solomon translates:] “I don’t have any other choice, so I have to [carry salt] again until I die.”
I wish now we had recorded every word Osafa said; quizzed him about where he was taken, why his captors had taken men as well as camels and held them so long; and what was the relationship (if any) between his captors and the Eritrean Army. But I shall never see Osafa again. I hope he and his poor donkeys made it back to the highlands.
— Why, when the news media say the Iranians want nuclear “weapons”, do we call ours the British nuclear “deterrent”? Is ours not a weapon? Should we follow politicians in smuggling opinion (by choice of words) into a simple report?
Talking of opinion, which of the two countries is, in your opinion, in the clearer and more present danger of being attacked by a nuclear power? Which could more convincingly argue it needs a deterrent?

Matthew Parris joined The Times as parliamentary sketchwriter in 1988, a role he held until 2001. He had formerly worked for the Foreign Office and been a Conservative MP from 1979-86. He has published many books on travel and politics and an autobiography, Chance Witness, for which he won the 2004 Orwell Prize. His diary appears in The Times on Thursdays, and his Opinion column on Saturdays
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I think you are putting your finger on a point here. Osafa has never left his parched, hostile country, while you and a small army of people from affluent, easy lands have eagerly poured in for the experience. Why hasnt Osafa left? Clearly, as he says, it is mainly his poverty, but it isnt entirely that because he could leave. Probably it is as much because he is attached to the terrain. Somewhat the same position applies to the whole Middle East. Europeans have adventured to the Middle East over the ages but the reverse has not been the case. Europeans may, in general, have been more prosperous, but then you would have thought that might have encouraged a reverse movement from the Middle East - Jews aside. Until the appearance of excessive oil wealth, this has not occurred. Rich Iranians and rich Arabs stay in their countries by preference, while Europeans and Americans have flowed through, fascinated by the desert experience; and intermeddling - TE Lawrence the classic example. So the answer to your last question is unmistakable.
Henry Percy, London, UK
The Iranians as far as I gather from the press do not recognise Israel on thier maps as they still believe the land belongs to the Palestinians therefore Moishe does not have an argument. As far as stated Iran wants to create a nuclear generating capability which it is entitled to do within the treaties, Israel has a nuclear weapon but this is OK because they did not sign up to the treaty. The west are simply scared that Iran will get a nuclear weapon and so will not be able to be intimidated by the USA and its friends. Let us not be fools if Iran fired a weapon at Israel they would retaliate and given previous examples it would be well out of proportion, even the leaders of Iran are not that stupid.
Let us concentrate on resolving the differences and getting ALL parties to follow UN resolutions and we might possibly achieve some kind of peace.
Joseph Kellie, Edinburgh, Scotland
The most likely kidnapper is a local Afar group as many are now concluding. I would speculate the motive is related to Salt Economics. Salt is the bread and butter of the nomad Afars. And as recently documented by BBC in âCamel Trainâ, the old Afar salt grounds are no longer as in the past exclusively mined by the Afars; many Tigrians now make the dangerous trip to the salt mines. Some have been held hostage in the past by whom, again, I can only assume is the same Afar group holding the Brits now. I am not surprised the Afars would see anyone showing remote interest in their salt mines as a threat. The Brits, may have seemed to show more interest in the Salt mines because, I am convinced, they are not your ordinary tourists. If they were, we would have seen the âHave you seen meâ picture on the milk carton.
eritus, Virginia,
Interesting that a few days ago a UN mission in the area is quoted as offering to help find five people who should have known better than to approach a dangerous area. Perhaps Matthew could tell us whether or not this august body was equally ready to help find poor Osafa, who has little choice but to be there to earn a living. Does the UN have its priorites right?
KR, Stockport,
I presume the British nuclear deterrent is called that because it is threatening nobody.
The Iranians are publicly threatening Israel with anahilation. That makes their nukes a 'weapon'.
Or is anahilating Israel also a form of deterrence?
Moishe, Jerusalem,
Its thought-provoking when one can relate directly to a specific location which later becomes newsworthy, especially when the indigenous culture differs from ones own.
I lived for two years to the age of nine in a colonial house (now beneath the ocean due to sea erosion) on Victoria Island, Lagos, Nigeria. A few hundred yards away was a disused former military firing range of the Kings African Rifles where I occasionally found spent rounds in the sand banked up against a high concrete wall which faced away from the sea.
I have since been told that this place became the final destination of many politicians deposed in that country following some of the coups and changes of government since Independence.
dr venables preller, Warrminster, UK
Iran can achieve deterrence more cheaply by resorting to moderation.
Lawrence Poole, London,
Trident is a fearsome weapon without common sense. You ask why a potential first strike capability is found so offensive in the Iranians and yet our own is described as deterrence - I'd say why describe a 4-WD vehicle as a people carrier when it's clearly a baby tank.
David Aspinall, Newcastle on Tyne,
a moving report matthew - a correspondent with heart and soul, the faceless and invisible people of this world are briefly given a voice.
richard mccance, nottingham, notts.