Melanie Reid
Download 'Too Hot', an exclusive Specials track from iTunes
Lazing around this Bank Holiday, we should raise a glass to Atta Sherpa, the Nepalese guide who has just broken all records and reached the summit of Everest for the 18th time.
For while we battle with bedding plants, Atta dallies in the death zone, hoisting a constant stream of fat, unfit, oxygen-starved Westerners into one of the most hostile environments on the planet. However reluctant the lobelia, they cannot really compete with that.
We may mourn the vulgar circus that Everest has become - with wealthy egotists queuing like ants to conquer it - but we should feel justifiably happy for 48-year-old Atta, who is fêted as a result of his exploits on the mountain.
Well fed and well clothed, he and his colleagues are now recognised and recompensed for the unique skills they offer the developed world at play.
But there is a darker, hidden story to be told about mountain guides; one born of this burgeoning age of adventure imperialism.
This one is a direct consequence of the extraordinary growth in charity trekking: the fashionable way for thousands of Europeans to raise money for good causes while having a jolly good time in an exotic place. The Andes? The Great Wall of China? Easy peasy to organise.
Everest is not yet on the mainstream charity challenge circuit - give it only time - but Kilimanjaro firmly is. The peak, the highest in Africa, and at 5,898m (19,340ft) the world's highest free-standing mountain, is not only iconic; it is the tallest that can be climbed without ropes or technical mountaineering skills. Purpose-built for the punters, in other words.
This year some 25,000 Westerners will beat the well-worn tourist path to its summit from the Tanzanian side - like Ben Nevis with bells on. I know of some who plan to go this summer: good people, keen on a low-risk adventure, with plenty of creature comforts on the way, and no desire to carry their own packs. But how many will notice their obliging Tanzanian escorts, Africa's forgotten sherpas, who, despite being ill-equipped, untrained and underpaid, will act as beasts of burden during their week-long trip?
The plight of the Kilimanjaro porters is one of those quiet scandals which no one likes talking about, least of all the companies which organise the lucrative trips. But by Western standards what is happening there represents the kind of exploitation stopped on Everest some years ago.
Up to 20 guides and porters die on Kilimanjaro every year. They will die from altitude sickness, hypothermia and pneumonia brought on by inadequate equipment and the relentless, competitive pressure to keep working.
That figure, shockingly, is more than double the number of tourists who die on the peak every year. Moreover, the guides are young men: by the time they reach their 30s they are finished; their bodies burnt out by the pounding they take. The oldest, currently, is 32.
For despite the advertising pitches, Kilimanjaro is no walk in the park. For anyone. Altitude sickness is an ever-present threat, and there is permanent snow on top, with frequent blizzards and temperatures well below freezing.
Every year eight to ten of the 25,000 who set out to climb it will die, usually as a result of altitude; and the failure rate for the climb is startling, with six out of every ten people unable to reach the summit.
On one British expedition last year, only nine out of 35 tourists summited, and 12 of the group had to be stretchered off the mountain. (The national park, although regulated, is too poor to have helicopter rescue or defibrillators stationed on the hillside.)
With a calculated lack of compassion, Western travel companies routinely employ doctors to care for their guests, but not the guides and porters.
Of the 150 guides registered with the Kilimanjaro National Park, most are self-employed. These young men exist in a ruthless free-market economy, vying with each other for the jobs, and risking their own health with enforced lay-offs and lack of proper re-acclimatisation. Their pay is correspondingly cut-throat. Porters (who carry 20k packs containing water, food, firewood and the tourists' possessions) earn $3 a day; guides up to $10.
Set against the £2,500 the individual tourist must raise in sponsorship, both to cover their jaunt and aid charity, these sums speak for themselves. They are, however, well above the average Tanzanian wage.
Allegedly some companies do not pay their staff any salaries at all, but let them rely on tips; and notably, I could find no companies which actually stated on the internet what rates they paid their native staff (though there was copious information about how little impact their long-haul flight would have on the environment).
Guides and porters also have to fund their own equipment. Meaning that trekkers are regularly escorted to the roof of Africa by shivering Tanzanians wearing wellies and flimsy anoraks - both bought secondhand, for up to $30 a throw - and lacking gloves, hats or sunglasses. One British doctor, who bluntly describes the situation as exploitation, had to treat his porters for snowblindness.
Through this GP, I met one of the guides, a slight, softly spoken African of 24 who came, like them all, from abject, mud-hut poverty. He spoke matter of factly about life on the mountain - of being forced to eat the tourists' leftover food, and sleep five in a bed, in shelters lacking any kind of insulation, while tourists enjoyed luxury A-frame huts. He worried not about his own health, but the responsibility he felt when tourists fell sick.
And, of course, Kilimanjaro raises the universal issues of tourism - casual labour, viable wages, exploitation. But it also demands urgent debate about how, in the playing of these supposedly philanthropic games in the developing world, we behave like the worst kind of colonials from a past era.
Let us not kid ourselves: there is nothing heroic left in any of this. Not in the checkout queue at thetop of Everest; neither, especially, on some naive sponsored walk in Africa.
Melanie Reid reports and commentates for The Times from Scotland. Before joining the paper, she was an award-winning columnist and senior assistant editor at The Herald in Glasgow
Win a luxury weekend to Newcastle and its neighbour Gateshead, find out more here
Risk, resilience and embracing new technology
Industry sectors news at a glance. Interactive heatmap, video and podcast
Discover the power of collective thinking. Submit a solution and be in with a chance to win a Media Hub Home Entertainment System
The inside track on current trends in the charity, not for profit and social enterprise sectors
Everything the Business Traveller needs to know to make a better trip
Make the most of the summer and enter our fabulous photographic competition, you could win a £5000 holiday
Corsica is an island of beauty and contrast, an ideal holiday destination
Enjoy further reading from Travel to Fashion, Business to Sport, discover more
Shortcuts to help you find sections and articles
The clever way to lease a new car is with Car leasing made simple™
2009
per month on 36-month
Personal Contract Hire (PCH)
2008
42850
Car Insurance
£24,250 - £30,346
MI5
London
£60,000
The Environment Agency
Bristol
Up to £90K
Boots
Midlands
OTE £85k
Credit Protection Association
Nationwide Opportunities
Completely London
Luxury Condo's in Manhattan with NYC views
The best new homes in Wimbledon?
Nationwide
Fabulous Cruise And Cruise & Stay Offers Including Virgin Atlantic Flights Prices Start From Only £699pp!
Last Minute Cruise And Cruise & Stay Offers. Med From £499pp, Caribbean From £699pp!
5 star quality at a 3 star price.
8 fabulous Canadian cities ...you won’t find cheaper
Contact our advertising team for advertising and sponsorship in Times Online, The Times and The Sunday Times, or place your advertisement.
Times Online Services: Dating | Jobs | Property Search | Used Cars | Holidays | Births, Marriages, Deaths | Subscriptions | E-paper
News International associated websites: Globrix Property Search | Property Finder | Milkround
Copyright 2009 Times Newspapers Ltd.
This service is provided on Times Newspapers' standard Terms and Conditions. Please read our Privacy Policy.To inquire about a licence to reproduce material from Times Online, The Times or The Sunday Times, click here.This website is published by a member of the News International Group. News International Limited, 1 Virginia St, London E98 1XY, is the holding company for the News International group and is registered in England No 81701. VAT number GB 243 8054 69.
This is definitely an issue that climbers should be aware of but as others have said some of the facts appear to be incorrect. Only the guides go all the way to the top not the porters. Overtipping is discouraged due to the effect of imbalanced wages among the local population and inflation.
RDS, WC, USA
I have just returned from climbing Kili. It was a wonderful, exhilartating,gruelling experience. The guides/ porters who helped us[5 women aged 25-52] up the mountain were amazing and we were all immensely moved by their plight. I am setting up a charity collection to send out mountain gear to them
Carol Hargreaves, Garstang, England
This is what happens when a writer fails to research. Fat is a rarity on Everest, Appa Sherpa was guiding a fit Asian gentleman (I was there), Kili is NOT the highest non-technical (see Aconcagua), Kili is ENTIRELY in Tanzania, Sherpa is an ethinic group not a job, several kili guides are over 32?
L Watts, Tampa, USA
I am a Kilimanjaro Mountain Guide for six years now.No research no data, and thus no explanation. The Melanie article is full of untrue stories. I suggest that she has to come for a research if not for adventure trekking.Client has to select a registered tour operator and with experience.
John Chitanda, kilimanjaro, Tanzania
First climbed to Uhuru Peak in 1963, the last time in 1995 the circus on the mountain is getting worse. In 95 we were actually passed by a Mercedes truck at Last Water (contaminated with leaking deisel drums - for the truck) it was carrying baggage for a Korean group. More Locals put out of work.
Dennis Morrod, Plymouth, Devon, England
I climbed Kilimanjaro last October. Our group consisted of 10 climbers. There were 45 porters for our group.
Given that ratio, a 2:1 ratio of fatalities from porters to climbers isn't as "shocking" as you make out.
Choose a responsible operator that supports the IPPG, then at least you're helping
Chris Cox, Brisbane, Australia
I would suggest that Ms Reid should go to Kili , climb it and then review her misguided comments . First up , the name is Apa or Appa Sherpa ! On my two Kili climbs my guides were 52 and mid forties and very well equipped and fed .... no need of leftovers . Westerners with consciences do tip well .
Ian, Port Elizabeth, South Africa
That comment from Toby of Croatia is the equivalent of Marie Antoinette's alleged pronouncement during the French Revolution of the peasants who were starving, "let them eat cake". I judge a person on how they treat the grafters of this world.
Gavin, Highnam, UK
According to The OED a Sherpa is. "a member of a Himalayan people living on the borders of Nepal & Tibet. Ergo there is no such thing as an African Sherpa.It is not a synonym for a porter or baggage bearer..
Bruce Northwood, Washington, D.C., USA
The Kilimanjaro climbing business is in serious need of better regulation. Those who wish to climb should find ways of lobbying for this--then their business will truly help the local people.
By the way, from what I've read the extreme climbers aren't all Westerners. Many are wealthy Asians.
D.L. Anderson, Crossett, AR/U.S.A.
I climbed Kili too, and I saw porters with gym socks on their feet. And that's with a company that's billed as reputable for caring for their staff. My advice for anyone that's going - plan to tip well and under the table. And leave behind extra gear you don't need. It'll go to good use!
BL, Williamsburg, VA
I climbed Kili in February 2008. I have never experienced a friendlier and more cheerful group than the support team of porters who helped us ascend. Portering jobs on Kili are much sought after by the locals as jobs for hard cash. We tipped the group over $2000 when we left.
Martyn White, London, UK
Having guided in Nepal, I agree the porter's situation depends on their employer. I worked with a highly regarded US outfitter that was meticulous in providing high-altitude gear for their Nepali staff. We treat countless staff illnesses & injuries, and organize generous tips & gifts at trip's end
Paul, Yosemite, USA
This report is totally one-sided and misinformed. I climbed Kilimanjaro last year and before we went much research was done into the company that took us and the welfare of the staff. Once again, if you research these things you can contribute to the local economy and workers well being.
Ross Stirling, London, England
I did Kili in Feb 08 with EXPLORE and the welfare of the porters was paramount. They are socially responsible as a company and treat porters and guides fairly.
Go with a reputable company and ask about how much they pay the porters, weight limits, breaks, etc. before before you book
Laura T, Manchester, UK
I think it points to an obvious inequity and arrogance about fat europeans consuming at expense of the poor, but should propose a better solution: anyone climbing these mountains needs to tip the porters more (rather than not doing the trip and depriving them of work entirely).
Mike, SAN DIEGO, USA
Typical colonial exploitation.
Thomas, Salt Lake City, USA
#2: Moreover, a single porter is obviously being allowed to carry much too much.The loads should be spread among sufficient porters,so that each one has a comparatively light load which includes his personal requirements.To allow
porters to be overloaded with heavy burdens is cruel exploitation.
Joan Moira Peters, Whangarei UK Citizen, temp o/seas in New Zealand
If you want to take charity trip free of exploitation and even air miles, check out the sponsored hitch-hikes that lcd run to morocco and prague. I did it this year and it was much more of an adventure than a package-holiday. It costs the charity nothing to run after you pay an admin fee.
Isobel, Bristol, UK
I'm horrified that your softly spoken 24 year old sherpa was forced to eat left over food. Who forced him and how? This force feeding must be stopped. Can't we contact the United nations about it or failing that Robert Mugabe?
Marion Morrison, Cheltenham,
Ban it I say. Too much money goes to charity anyway, and these porters are fit enough, they're all bound to find work elsewhere- probably in the mines
Toby, Pula, Croatia
Yet again it is assumed that the West should take the rap, and the guilt trip, for the failings of corrupt African governance.
Let's do the maths...
25000 people, paying $600 each, comes to $15 million per year in park fees, and where does it all go I wonder? No money for defibrillators indeed...
Adam, London,
A barrister chum of mine, undertakes all sorts of group adventure trips. Foothills of the Himalaya is favourite stamping ground. I saw revealing snaps of this the other day. What stood out were the loaded porters carrying all the stuff, while the happy white chaps sported along in front. Good show.
Colin, Cambridge, U.K.
Charity sponsorships, where the fund raiser receives a free holiday, give charity fund raising a bad name. Those seeking sponsorship should be obliged to declare how much of the money they raise is spent by the charity providing the free holiday.
William, Nottingham, GB
There are some companies that exploit the porters on Kilimanjaro and some that don't. I climbed with Kiliwarriors. Their porters are well fed, well paid and had better clothing and equipment than me. They sang all the way to the summit and all the way back down again.
Steve, halifax,
There is nothing black and white about this piece.
And if the cheapskate tourists from the West weren't so cut-throat, people wouldn't be charging them with being imperialists in the first place.
edmund wee, singapore,
The porters don't tend to summit but remain below the snow line at the final camp - so I am amazed that you quote a British doctor treating them for snowblindness. They are well acclimatised to the altitude so are unlikely to suffer the effects of altitude sickness. A pointless article.
Marsh, Perth, Australia
Thank you Melanie Reid. A piece that should have been written a long time ago. It has been the publicity in the past that has resulted in the majority of Everest sherpas paid properly. High time for those in Kilimanjaro.
JA, London, UK
Ngowi I would not wish to demean the hard struggle of the Kili porter or the life they lead but the writer seems to think that trekkers turn up like colonials and are carried up the mountain. I would rather pay half the admission fees direct to the porters but would that really solve the problem?
Paul, London, UK
I climbed Kili, just, in 1999. We paid a UK tour company, who sub-contracted to a Kenyan company, who put us with a Tanzanian company.
Before the climb we were told that we had to pay extra for water, [there is none from half way up], and coming down we were asked to pay the unpaid porters. Bad!
Derrick East, Bournemouth, UK
How patronising of the majority europeans commentators that they are providing a living to the poor africans. It is an "I am alright Jack" syndrom. Even if there are inaccuracies in the report, the writer is trying to wake up your consicence and waking up our humanity. Are you up for it? Perhaps not
Naren, London , UK
Mr Paul of London you are trying to make a meal out of climbing Kilimanjaro !
Alot of other parts of our dear continent are not blessed with such a montain (it is beautiful I must say) but somehow we are suviving !
The article has some truth on it especially in Westen eyes !
Karibu tena K'Njaro
Ngowi, Kibosho-Moshi, Tanzania
I have climbed both Everest and Kilimanjaro, and in both cases I was with reputable guiding companies that pay well and provide the best equipment and food for staff. Your article should have focussed on the large permit fees that foreigners pay, and why they don't benefit the local people.
Climber, London, Uk
No one is saying that the business should be stopped, but the health and safety of the porters should not being put at risk recklessly. Despite those criticizing the article, no one seems to be able to dispute the number of fatalities. Mountain guide/portering is clearly different to a waiting job!
SH, London, UK
Well off, over imbibed, fat, fed up chaps, find excitements and new purpose in life away from their wives by trekking in the Himalaya. Unfortunately, largely due to unfamiliar altitudes and climate, this involves overburdened low paid thin porters to carry all of their stuff. I have seen the snaps.
Colin, Cambridge, U.K.
We paid double the daily rate as its a scandal to pay such low wages + a bonus. We paid for their meals and at the end gave the clothes to them as well.Why leave people in poverty when you can make a real difference. $6 is nothing, its a pint in the local pub. Blame the cheap tourists/companies
KC, london, uk
Ive climbed Kilimanjaro and first hand experience dictates that some of the facts stated are wrong, others merely misleading. For example we had porters over the age of 32. Secondly what is the difference between small wages relying on tips for porters in Africa or waiting staff in the UK?
Daniel, Cambridge,
in 1970 I climbed Kibo peak and paid what was then a commercial rate of several hundred shillings. The porters and guides were a lot fitter than us and suffered no ill effects. Also they got ALL the monies.
Seems another example of BIG business and BIG government being BAD for the people!
tim, bournemouth,
In Nepal there is a UK based charity Community Action Nepal who ensure porters have the right equipment for treks and there is also a Nepalese based charity providing boots/clothing for porters. NB leave your boots & clothes & a big tip for porters/sherpas - and make sure they get it!
Andy, London,
Sherpas are an ethnic group. It is not a job. There are about 100,000 of them living, the majority in Eastern Nepal and Darjeeling, India. Sherpa s are ethnically Tibetian and they speak their own language, Sherpa which is related to Tibetian. The author here is obviously refering to porters!
Catherine Sherpa-Blaiklock, Norwich, UK
Being a Tanzania myself and a chagga in tribe (coming just under the nose of K'njaro I am proud of this article for two major reasons
1 Every publicity is a good publicity
2 At least for once the mountain is not being reported as if it is in Kenya (no part of it is in our dear neighbours)
Ngowi, Kibosho-Moshi, Tanzania
This is a badly written, emotive article. The writer should try climbing the mountain and talking to the porters. They are a proud people struggling to survive in a desperately poor country. HIV deaths are rampant and income from the mountain provides the main hope in the region.
David , Hong Kong,
Having climbed Kilimanjaro in January I cannot begin to point out the number of inaccuracies in this piece of journalistic hand wringing. Melanie - have you attempted a climb of Kili? Ever been to Moshi in Tanzania? Ask yourself what would happen to the economy if you stopped trekkers going there?
Paul, London, UK
I hav'n't had mountain climbing experience yet from what one sees on TV, I guessed porters are very underpaid & suggested online some time ago, eg Nepalese shd charge tourists a lot more.It wd be easy to leave it to the firms but tourists shd voluntarily tip each porter the huge amount they deserve.
Joan Moira Peters, Whangarei UK Citizen, temp o/seas in New Zealand
Perhaps you should be asking the Tanzanian Government what it does with the USD 600 it receives for every person climbing Kili in park fees. Hard as the life of a porter is you are directing your ire at the wrong people. Those funds could do much to support the porters but little is reinvested.
Paul, London, UK
This traffic has been growing for years and should have been addressed long ago. I carried my own gear up Mount Kenya thirty years ago having seen the poor condition and equipment of the porters. Kenya is only 17,000 ft but only two of our party of six made it. For the porters it can mean death.
Mike, NYC, USA
In Nepal travel companies/agencies are well known to maximise profits by underbooking porters necessitating those on the trek to carry excessive loads of three sometimes four tourist backpacks.
Steve Edwards, Bali, Indonesia
This is a classic piece of black-and-white journalism.
Henry , Hong Kong,
So what is an unemployed sherpa going to do these days?
Tom, Perth, Oz