The news that Michelin has seen fit to award Tokyo a galaxy of stars was greeted with cries of “banzai!” by one of the eight new three-star chefs, and general Japanese jubilation. But although the Japanese were gracious enough to be pleased by the praise, it cannot have come as a surprise that once the Michelin inspectors arrived, 91 years after they began grading restaurants, they were impressed. Tokyo has 190,000 restaurants, and sushi chefs routinely spend seven years training to make distinctions between parts of tuna belly that baffle most Western diners, but which are essential when pleasing a subtle palate.

For, while the Japanese have built the fastest trains and most futuristic televisions, they have also long applied their stratospheric diligence to the art of fun. This country brought us Pokémon, karaoke and the intricate films of Ozu. Small wonder, then, that the small wonders of Japanese cuisine are the best in the world. Two thirds of the restaurants awarded stars do serve Japanese cuisine — from the succession of tiny dishes in kaiseki meals, to succulent Kobe beef cooked teppanyaki-style. Where French restaurants have been rewarded, the chefs are usually Japanese cooks who, having learnt cordon bleu techniques, practise them with Japanese finesse.

Tokyo was the first Asian city covered by Michelin, and another secret Asian location is being scouted. Now they have progressed from Europe and the US, who can blame them? Having encountered sashimi in Japan, the inspectors will be clamouring for laksa in Singapore and noodles in Beijing. Enviable tasks, indeed.