Armies have fought over it! So, go more slowly — acknowledge that France is worth a journey rather than a rush. Wander off the beaten track, take your time, and enjoy things that you would otherwise never discover.
Below are my suggestions for places to stop off en route to some of the main holiday destinations in France. Some are perfect for families, others for couples, but all make it well worth breaking the journey.
En route to Gascony
FAMILIES
A. Le Fleuray Hôtel, Cangey
Perfect if you have a helicopter — or hot-air balloon. Pretty perfect, too, for ordinary mortals driving to the south, for Peter and Hazel have created a haven of peace: a solid, handsome old manor house with duck pond and barns, mature trees and bushes. The rooms in the barn are just right for families, as they are slightly cut off from the rest. There’s a swimming pool for a post or pre-travel dip and a wonderful menu for children.
Le Fleuray Hôtel, 37530 Cangey (00 33 2 47 56 09 25, www.lefleurayhotel.com). Doubles from £54. Breakfast £7. Dinner from £19. Directions: A10 from Paris, 10 minutes from exit 18.
COUPLES
B. Le Pigeonnier du Perron, Availles en Châtellerault
There’s an excellent selection of wines from Cahors at this petit seigneurie once owned by René Descartes and home for 150 years to the Thiollet family — they have their own wine laboratory there. Daughter Emilie now prepares the meals — fish is her speciality. Sun-ripe tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and courgettes are home-grown along with herbs for the kitchen; a stone terrace with good outdoor furniture makes an inviting spot for alfresco dining. Excellent value.
Le Pigeonnier du Perron, Le Perron, 86530 Availles en Châtellerault (5 49 19 76 08, www.lepigeonnierduperron.com). Doubles from £42. Breakfast £5, dinner from £11. Directions: A10, 5 minutes from exit 27.
En route to Provence
