The tyres are the most likely cause of the noise. The harder sports suspension allows more tyre noise to be transmitted through to the car, making it more noticeable. Some makes of tyre are noisier than others, so changing to a quieter type will help considerably. A rough rule is that tyres made from a harder rubber compound will be noisier and have slightly less grip, although you won’t really notice the reduced grip unless you’re hurtling round a racing circuit. On the plus side, harder tyres will last longer. Softer tyres are quieter, have more grip, but wear out more quickly – and they tend to be more expensive to start with. Ask a good tyre dealer who stocks many different makes to recommend the best compromise for your ears and your wallet and shop around for the best deal.

I have a 2003 Renault Megane convertible with an electronic hood. Unfortunately the engine turned off as the roof was going up. Now the roof won’t go up or down. We called the Renault people and they said it needs to be reset. How can I fix this myself? Name and address withheld

You close the hood manually and the system will reset itself. The procedure is described in detail in the owner’s handbook. In the luggage compartment cavity there is a lever to close the roof manually together with a screw that operates the hydraulic part of the system. Turn the screw as far as possible and then follow the instructions in the handbook for closing a manual hood.

I have 1998 Hyundai Lantra Sorrento Auto. I recently had the brake discs and pads changed. However, since then I have been experiencing brake judder, as well as knocking noises from the brakes. Having returned to the garage which did this work several times, they are still unable to diagnose a problem. I have also taken the car to the main dealer for inspection and they suggest changing the discs and pads again to cure the problem. Name and address withheld

Ask the garage to check the run out of the new discs. I had exactly the same problem a few years ago on a Hyundai Coupe. Although there’s nothing specified by Hyundai, the new discs needed a light skim to make them run true. The dealer I used took the car to another garage that had a skimming machine and the problem was cured.

I have a 1997 VW Golf 1.4L which has done just under 70,000 miles. It has never failed me previously in any way, but it has recently developed a tendency to cut out just before or at the point of stopping. I just restart it, but it can be inconvenient when I want to pull away quickly. Name and address withheld

It sounds like a fault with the idle speed control. This is an increasingly common – and irritating – problem on modern cars as they age. It often means you need a new throttle position sensor or idle speed control valve, but there are some simple things you can check before you spend any money.

First, check all the air and vacuum pipes around the engine for leaks. There are plenty of them, all made of rubber. Make sure none have come loose, they’re not perished and any clips are secure and tight. Next, try cleaning the inside of the throttle housing around the throttle plate itself. Your car was available with single point or multi-point injection, so I can’t tell you exactly where it is without more information about the engine, but the easy way to find it is to get an accomplice to press the accelerator pedal with the engine switched off while you look under the bonnet to see what’s moving. Take off the air filter or large hose to get to the throttle and if there’s a greasy black deposit, clean it off with a bit of rag or kitchen roll – it’s just a few years of accumulated engine fumes and nothing to worry about. If neither of these work, it’s back to a dealer I’m afraid.