There is an oasis in this nanny-knows-best world where the law-abiding driver may officially ditch his milksop persona and unleash the beast within. It is a 13-mile stretch of public road through pleasant wooded hills and valleys that Stirling Moss called “the fastest, most demanding and most dangerous race track ever built”.

Here, a driver may torture himself and his machine to the limits and the phrase “health and safety” is left on the start line.

Germany’s Nürburgring is a glorious throwback to the heyday of road racing. Finished in 1927 it hosted the German Grand Prix on and off for 80 years and such men as Juan Fangio, Jackie Stewart and Jacky Ickx made their reputations there. A Formula One track remains but covers only a three- mile stretch at the southern tip of the Ring. The old track, the Nordschleife (northern loop), has long been deemed too dangerous for F1 racing — but you and I can go and play on it.

The Nordschleife remains a one-way public toll road, with precious few speed limits beyond the start/finish area, and on summer evenings and weekends the public come from far and wide to test their mettle.

The Ring is considered to be the ultimate driver’s track, where better drivers in lesser cars have performed historic deeds. In 1962 Jim Clark, driving a 1.5 litre Lotus 23, wiped the floor with a phalanx of Ferraris, Astons, Maseratis and Porsches with four times the horsepower. Six years later, when 1600cc Formula Two cars were allowed to compete in the 3 litre Formula One race, Jacky Ickx qualified third fastest in an F2 Matra Cosworth ahead of 15 F1 cars. More recently, the local heroine Sabine Schmitz, driving a Ford Transit, famously almost matched Jeremy Clarkson’s time in a Jaguar S-class.

So no blaming the car. You can blame the traffic — you’ll be sharing 12.947 miles of track and 73 bends with motorcycles, motor homes, even buses. Accidents are common. Given the number of blind corners and summits, one crash can lead to another.

You can spot the potential accident scenes by the size of the crowds — if you see an expectant mob, brake hard. German traffic laws apply: overtaking is on the left only and if you’re rear-ended when you’re on the left of the track the accident is your fault.

If you crash and survive, the bill can be horrendous: £10,000 for damage to fixtures and fittings and £1,350 an hour if you close the track. Then there’s your air ambulance and hospital stay — check your travel insurance for exclusion clauses — not to mention car recovery. AA five-star breakdown cover specifically excludes the Nürburgring.

Braving the Ring is for responsible grown-ups who accept the consequences of their actions, a precious quality in a world where risk is becoming illegal. Ring veterans warn against chasing lap times. Go there for the ultimate driving experience, but make sure you know your limits and you’ll live to drive another day.

HOW TO DO IT

What Brave the Nürburgring

Why Relive past glories of race-ace Jackie Stewart

Where Nürburg, Germany (don’t go to Nuremberg), off the E60 north of Trier

Vital statistics 12.947 miles long with 73 corners (40 right, 33 left)

Cost One lap £11 or more. Season tickets: £280 per half year, £540 per year

Car rental Rent (“mieten”) a BMW 325 on site for £265 a day; minimum age 25. See www.rent-racecar.de and www.ringhaus.com/hotel_en/public/cars.php

More info Official website at www.nuerburgring.de/home/index.html?L=1 though Ben Lovejoy’s site www.nurburgring.org.uk is better

Handiest accommodation Hotel An Der Nordschleife, Adenau (+49 2691 930 158, www.hotel-an-der-nordschleife.de)

Before going Check out Nürburgring video games for PS2, Xbox, and Xbox 360

Explore Features

• Porsche

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• Maserati

• Aston Martin

• Jaguar

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