The melting creaminess of this rice pudding — simmered on the hob rather than baked — seems to be have been made in heaven specifically for the sweet-sourness of rhubarb.

Feeds 2 to 4. Takes 45 mins.

800ml milk
100g short-grain or arborio rice
50g sugar
1tsp clear rosewater syrup or extract
½tsp vanilla extract
1tsp cornflour
1 extra tbsp milk

FOR THE RHUBARB

400g rhubarb stalks
3tbsp soft brown or caster sugar
2tbsp orange juice
1tsp rosewater syrup or extract

Place the milk and rice in a heavy-based saucepan and heat gently, stirring occasionally. Lower the heat just before the milk comes to the boil and cook gently, uncovered, for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until each grain of rice is tender but still shapely, and the pudding is the consistency of thick soup. The milk should just “flutter” on top.

In the meantime, wash the rhubarb well, discard any leaves, and chop into 2cm lengths. Combine with the sugar, orange juice and rosewater in a covered saucepan and simmer for up to five minutes until soft.

Discard any skin that has formed on top of the milk, and add the sugar, rosewater and vanilla extract. Stir well until the sugar dissolves.

Mix the cornflour to a paste with an extra tablespoon of milk. Add the cornflour paste to the rice, stirring well, until the rice thickens.

You now have a choice: add the rhubarb, stir it through, and pour the pudding into four shallow dessert plates. Or layer the rice pudding and the rhubarb in heatproof glass bowls for a pretty effect. Serve warm or at room temperature.