As an exercise in rebranding, the pashmina mark II has put on an exemplary display from which many a fallen idol, from Robert Mugabe to the Krankies, could learn a trick. As observed in this very column a while ago, the pashmina is back – and whereas before it ended up looking twee and yummy mumsy, this time it’s exuding a vague, rock’n’roll grunginess.

It has pulled off this miracle by doing absolutely nothing. Pashminas haven’t suddenly acquired bells or bondage straps.

Au contraire, they’re sober affairs, in loose weave cashmere, linen and silk mixes, probably in some shade of greige, foie gras or slate, depending on the ambitions of whoever’s writing the press release. There are lots of companies offering them, from www.pure.co.uk’s rainbow family to Toast’s lovely, muted ticking linen/viscose scarves (www.toast.co.uk). If it’s unadulterated luxury you’re after, Denis Colomb is the name currently in the personal address books of the fashion set. Think summer-weight gauziness that’s both ultra-light and warm, or winter pashmina coats – and take out a new mortgage (from Dover Street Market, London W1).

Not to be confused with pashminas of yore, which were pretty and pastel and draped across shoulders, mark II is wound round the neck and dangles down the front, school-of-Burberry style, as a deliberate counterpoint to summer’s ultra-feminine ruffles fest. If you’re aiming for androgynous tailoring, the kinda-depressed pashmina will ensure you don’t look too severe. If you’re a celebrity, you could wear one with an evening dress to show you’re cool. Think of it as a new kind of necklace, but only if it helps.

Spurred on by the success of my personal pashmina odyssey these past few months, I’ve been tempted to progress onto other scarves, successful scarf-wearing being the PhD of clothes. Unless you’re Chloë Sevigny, the dowager Duchess of Devonshire, Inès de la Fressange or Marilyn Monroe prancing around nude behind a transparent scarf on a Bert Stern shoot, it’s hard to avoid looking like BA cabin crew. Still, Hermès didn’t get this far with four customers, so there must be a knack. Unfortunately, none of us in the fashion department can identify it. It would appear that on the whole, successful scarf-wearing is an innate talent, like having the ability to bite your toe nails or be French.

Except there’s a new way to wear scarves that’s almost universally foolproof – not knotted in a neat choker that ends up slipping round your neck, but folded into a big triangle at the front and tied, Middle-Eastern style. This is a cunningly brilliant route to prints and colours you wouldn’t otherwise be seen dead in, but know will cut a dash. And when scarves are passé again, you can make pillowcases out of them, which will be good for your skin. You can’t say that about Balenciaga’s summer gladiator boot.