WHENEVER iceberg lettuce gets any press, it is inevitably preceded by the words “much-maligned”. But I haven’t heard anyone malign iceberg lettuce for years. I think, in fact, that it is very much admired, for its crisp crunch, its cool, fresh taste, and its versatility. Good grief, it even has a website — www.iceberg-lettuce.co.uk — courtesy of the British Iceberg Growers Association.

So popular is it that it even transcends its natural association with summer and salads, and turns up in a number of recipes suitable for the cooler parts of the year — wilted in broths, cooked into soups, and even wrapped around spicy, hot fillings.

If you are not yet ready for the hearty cabbages and slightly bitter greens of winter, then iceberg lettuce can help you to make the transition. Cook the leaves into a soup with bacon or ham, garlic, chicken stock and a touch of cream, or serve them as a hot vegetable next to a stir-fry, wilted in boiling water for 30 seconds, drained, and tossed with Chinese oyster sauce and a little sesame oil.

Another good trick is to shred the iceberg lettuce finely and toss into a stir-fry, a noodle dish or soup at the very last minute before serving, for a lovely “soft” crunch.

Here the lettuce is wilted in good chicken stock with peas and some softened shallots, and served as a brothy bed for a fine white fish such as brill. (For information on sustainable fish choices, visit the Marine Stewardship Council's www.fishonline.co.uk)

BRILL WITH LETTUCE AND PEAS AND PEAS

Prep: 10min
Cook: 30min

Serves 4

3 shallots, finely sliced
1tbsp butter
1tbsp olive oil
100ml dry white wine
250ml chicken or vegetable stock
300g green peas, frozen
sea salt and pepper
½tsp sugar
half iceberg lettuce
4 white fish fillets (such as brill) ~
1tbsp butter
1tbsp chopped parsley

METHOD

Heat the butter and olive oil in a saucepan, and gently cook the shallots until soft, for about 10 minutes. Cook the peas in salted, simmering water for 5 minutes, drain and rinse in cold water.

Add the white wine to the shallots and bring to the boil, stirring. Add the chicken stock, salt, pepper and sugar, and bring to the boil. Separate the leaves of the lettuce and tear them in half. Add the leaves and peas to the broth. Simmer and cover for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the butter in a non-stick frying pan and fry the fish, skinside down, until it is almost cooked, turning briefly to do the other side. Season well. Ladle the wilted lettuce, peas and broth into four warmed shallow bowls, and top with the fish. Scatter with parsley and serve.

www.timesonline.co.uk/foodandwine
— for previous recipes from T2