Kevin Coulson
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Japanese people don’t like to say ‘no.’ They have roundabout ways of saying it, but in what is still a hierarchical society, many of them prefer not to lose face in this way. So, they will always try to find a solution. This is what Xin Chu, a Japanese grandmother explained to me on my flight to Tokyo last summer.
A not dissimilar mentality allowed me and my two overdrawn companions to have a fun-filled three weeks in the ‘Land of the Rising Sun’.
We wanted to go somewhere completely different, having already travelled extensively around South East Asia, South America and the Antipodes between us. For our trio, which consisted of an artist, an architect and sushi monster, there was only one place to go.
Initially, a trip to Japan seemed impossible as it has a reputation for being one of the most expensive countries to travel in and certainly not a destination for cash strapped graduates.
But with a modicum of organisation and planning we realised it was still possible on a shoestring budget, albeit a fairly long one.
We extensively explored this fascinating country in a relatively short period of time, visiting some amazing places, from the mind-blowing cities of Tokyo and Osaka, to the hot springs of Beppu.
If you are thinking of embarking on a similar trip, here are a few handy tips to cut costs, find bargains and stretch your budget.
Accommodation
If you are savvy about it, you can save a fistful of Yen. Make sure you book ahead online as the Japanese only have a few cheap Youth Hostels in each city, which get booked up quickly. They range from ¥1800 (about £8) to around ¥4000 (£17) and are all very clean and comfortable.
Other options include the traditional Japanese hotels, called ryokan which cost from about ¥4000 per person per night. This involves living in a room with tatami (straw mat) flooring, changing into a typical yukata (robe) and sleeping on a futon. They are worth a visit if you can spare a few Yen.
If the ryokan is traditional Japanese fare, the capsule hotel is symbolic of the modern metropolis. We heard they are sleazy places where ‘salary men’ head after a drinking binge but we found them to be convenient, and cheaper than the ryokan at around ¥3500.
You stash all your belongings in a locker and sleep in a plastic pod, which is stacked on top of two or three others, in a row of hundreds. Inside there is a bed, radio, a small shelf and a TV built into the ceiling. They are comfortable, but not for the claustrophobic.
Hotels will usually have some sort of entertainment room with a television and a public bath known as ‘onsen’. These gender divided onsens are an experience in themselves and involve sitting on a potty-like stool cleaning yourself with a small hand towel covered in soap before using the huge bath, jacuzzi or sauna that typically to accompanies them.
Be prepared for a lot of naked Japanese men or women, which can be disconcerting initially and is not for the shy.
If you are really strapped for cash in a major city, go to an internet café. It will charge you a nominal fee for ‘all night internet’ and you can sleep in the web room on the comfortable padded chairs, or sofas. Just watch out for the cyber-nerds who may wake you at four in the morning.
Eating
You can eat pretty well for about ¥2000 a day (£9). There are lots of cheap eateries in Japan serving meals starting at ¥400. Many of the restaurants have plastic reproductions of plates of food in the window making it easy to order by pointing your finger and saying “ku-da-sai” (‘please’ in Japanese).
Noodle soup - Ramen, Udon or Soba varieties - is popular but be wary as whatever it says on the menu, is whatever will be immersed in water, even tempura vegetables which will disintegrate on contact with the liquid!
Sushi is more expensive - but well worth it if you have a spare stash of cash - as the freshness and variety is unrivalled. An early morning trip to the Tsukiji fish markets in Tokyo is highly recommended for this- but beware of the Wasabi!
If you are desperate to save money, head to the Japanese equivalent of McDonalds - Yoshinoya. It has a selection of rice dishes topped with mystery meats in a pleasant sauce. You will spot Yoshinoya's luminous orange sign in most big cities.
Transport
One of the best things that you can do is buy a Japan Rail pass before your trip, as you can’t buy them in Japan. The passes allow unlimited travel on the famed Shinkansen or “bullet trains” which are a serious piece of kit. They look more like an airplane from the front, and are quicker, cleaner, more comfortable and more reliable than any other form of ground transport I have been on.
A two-week rail pass costs around £200 but covered pretty much all of our travel, including ferries and buses outside of Tokyo and you can get to all of the major cities in Japan on them too.
Money
Do not be seduced into believing that because Japan is a developed country with cutting-edge technology that they have an adequate banking system for Westerners. Japan is still very much a cash culture so make sure you have plenty of Yen on you at all times - and that your insurance covers you up to that amount.
Despite numerous guidebooks saying one Japanese bank accepts visa, we couldn’t find it. In reality, the post office is the only place you can draw out money or exchange travellers’ cheques and it is only open until 4pm daily.
Language and general etiquette
English does not suffice in Japan. The majority of people speak no understandable English and even those at the tourist information desks struggled. A combination of some choice phrases learned from a phrasebook or a language website like this one should help you in combination with improvised gesticulations.
The magic word in Japanese is ‘sumimasen’ which can mean ‘sorry’,’ excuse me,’ ‘please’ and ‘thank you’ depending on the intonation.
Locals will go out of their way to help you and even if they are unable to help, this does not put them off trying. Although, when asking for directions just remember that because they do not want to lose face by saying they don’t know, they might end up losing you!
Finally, do not forget to bow instead of shaking hands. The hierarchy dictates that you bow lower than someone of higher status than you. If unsure, just go low.
Sticking to the shoe string
Japan doesn't offer many expensive once-in-a-lifetime activities like skydiving so there are few hidden extras once you get there that could cause you to blow your budget.
It is one of the most interesting countries I have been to and - with a bit of research and planning - it is more than possible to travel around with a limited budget. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise.
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I went to Japan in 2007 and would confirm that it was much cheaper than it is reputed to be.
Long distance train travel and hotels are a bit expensive (similar to the UK) but everything else seemed way cheaper than the UK.
In general getting around is easy as the transport system is excellent and well signed in English. Despite this, hardly anyone spoke a word of English. It matters not though, as they're set up for most standard tourist requests.
Aaron Davis, London,
Too often we hear 1-dimensional views about travelling in Asia from bland guide books and from people who've plodded the same old 'backpacker's trail' through Thailand and Vietnam etc.
How refreshing to read an informative and personal account of a country we hear surprisingly little about in terms of inexpensive travelling. Sumimasen!
Alex , London,
Great article! Really made me consider an option for travelling that hadn't really thought of. I too, was under the common misconception that it was simply too expensive! Thanks.
Oliver Pollard, London,
Hey Kevin, thankyou for the Info. I had always fancied checking out Japan but counted it out purely on the basis of cost... you have made me think again!!
Mark, London
Mark Paterson, St.Albans, UK
I'm planning a trip to Japan in February, although not skint money will be tight. This has made me feel 10 times better as everyone I've spoken to says how expensive it is!
Thanks for the tips Mr. Coulson, I'll let you know how I get on!
Joe, London,
Fascinating article - really made me want to see more for myself, never realised it was possible to do on a budget!! great insight thanks!
Oliver Pollard, London,