Edinburgh on the cheap, year-round

There is only one problem with my two favourite cities, Edinburgh and London. They are inconveniently 405 miles apart. Living north of the border and going to university in the south, I have tried every mode of transport between the two capitals – trains, planes, hitch-hiking, sponsored bike ride – but I always end up tired, dirty and severely out of pocket.

With the Easter holidays coming around again, and the Edinburgh Festival not too far off in August, I was determined to find an affordable and comfortable way to get to Edinburgh even if it was only for the weekend. Then the answer came to me: the sleeper.

Known romantically as The Deerstalker, a journey on the Caledonian Sleeper seemed like an adventure in itself. Incredibly, “Bargain Berths” (bunk beds) cost only £19 each way - about a quarter of the price of a normal train to Edinburgh - and effectively included two free nights’ accommodation.

Of course it was too good to be true, as the cheapest tickets sold out in about 1947 and I booked a measly week in advance. I settled for a one-way £44.90 “reclining airline-style seat”, which was still relatively cheap and available until the day before travel.

Arriving at London Euston for my 11.45pm train, I was as excited as a kid on Haribo. The train was black and old-fashioned in appearance, and my first thought was the Hogwarts Express. After all, Edinburgh is where Hogwarts is, or where Harry Potter was born, or something like that.

My reclining seat was adequately spacious with a foot rest, a fold-out table and an eye-mask. When I hit the lever, the seat moved forward and reclined so that I sank comfortably into its cushioned lining. So far so good.

The carriage was half empty and my fellow travellers were quite a motley crew; a family with a tired-looking child in a pushchair sat at one end of the carriage, a businessman behind them, and further down, an elderly lady of the sort likely to feed her grandchildren furry toffees from her handbag as a “wee treat”.

I sat behind two young guys who spent most of the journey loudly swapping stories about their X-rated experiences while visiting strip clubs, until the family asked them to be quiet. Another man in his mid-thirties sat on the other side of the aisle. He seemed bitterly disappointed to be missing a Friday night out clubbing and persisted in ringing his friends to try to chat up girls from the train. This would be many people’s idea of hell I suppose, but for a seasoned eavesdropper like myself, listening to others' amusing conversations was a great soundtrack for the journey.

I ventured down the train to check out the buffet car, which was stocked with cheap booze for those who did not want to remember the journey. It also included a couple of tables at which you could enjoy haggis, neaps and tatties (offal, turnips and potatoes) for £3.50, perhaps an attempt to acquaint delicate Londoners with stodgy Scottish cuisine.

Apart from the buffet car, I was disappointed to find few other facilities on board except for a surprisingly clean toilet, and realised there would be no chance of a shower the next morning. On the way back to my seat I peered enviously into the berths - compact rooms with two bunk beds, blue blankets and some even with a sink - and vowed to book early for a bed next time.

Settling into my seat, I realised it may not be as comfortable as it first appeared. After two hours of leaning on the window with a jumper for a pillow, I woke up to find my neck was numb. The seat next to me was free, so I pushed up the arm rest and tried to create a makeshift bed with my legs hanging into the aisle, but ended up kicking the man opposite me - not entirely a bad thing as he had been snoring gutturally since about 3am. I unsuccessfully tried several other positions, most of which yoga experts probably would not recommend without years of training, and resigned myself to a largely sleepless night.

Seven uncomfortable hours later the train pulled in to Edinburgh Waverley station, exactly on time at 7.15am, and I was more tired and dirty than ever to the point where I tried to stay on the train for an extra hour’s kip. It worked until about 8am, as passengers are allowed “waking-up time”, but soon afterwards I was asked to move along on by the ticket inspector.

However, despite the lack of comfort on my journey, the sleeper let me get the most out of my few days in Edinburgh by getting me there bright and early on Saturday morning. I could have started my day by climbing Arthur’s Seat to see the city in the morning light or watching the sun rise over the castle from Princes Street gardens. On the other hand, the Penny Black on the Royal Mile opens at 7am. See you at the bar.

Sleeper price list

The Caledonian Sleeper runs between London and Edinburgh in both directions every night except Saturday. Book online at First ScotRail or call 08457 55 00 33.

Apex tickets are cheaper than open tickets and are available one week in advance.

Bargain berths are only available online for specified trains, and can be booked up to three months in advance. They sell out very quickly, so it is advisable to book as far ahead as possible.

First class berth (single occupancy + sink): £165 return (apex); £205 return (open)

Second class berth (double occupancy): £95 return (apex); £149 return (open)

Reclining seat: £44.90 return (apex); £87 return (open)

Bargain berth (double occupancy berth at reduced price): £19-£49 one way

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