What better time than St Patrick's Day to consider the pig, treasured by the Irish for its bacon and ham, pork and sausages. When it comes to pork, however, there is a spectrum of meat out there, ranging from the pale, often flabby, ultra-mild-tasting meat that comes from animals intensively reared indoors, to the darker, richly flavoured sweet meat that comes from traditional and rare-breed animals that grow slowly and roam outdoors. When in the Fifties pig farming began to focus its attention on three large, lean breeds (Large White, Landrace and White) many of our specialist native pigs such as the Ulster White and the Yorkshire Blue were lost. Thankfully, however, others such as the Middle White, Tamworth and Gloucester Old Spot have survived and are winning fans for their distinctive meat.

Should we be worried about conditions in intensive systems?

A survey just published by the RSPCA's Freedom Food scheme shows that as a nation we are becoming more concerned about animal welfare, but while we worry about the plight of intensively farmed poultry, 51 per cent of UK consumers think the welfare standards of pigs are very or fairly good. The Orwellian truth, though, is that some pigs are considerably more equal than others. In Britain, it has been illegal since 1999 for sows to be tethered or kept in narrow stalls with no room to turn around during pregnancy. In indoor systems, however, lack of space and straw for pigs to root in is an issue, as is the practice of confining sows in farrowing crates for 28 days to stop them rolling on to and crushing the piglets. According to Dr Julia Wrathall of the RSPCA, "Studies show that there is no benefit in reducing crushing after the first five days when the piglets are particularly vulnerable."

Is it possible to but a pig and have someone raise it for you?

The Number One Pig Consortium and Yorkshire Meats are two outfits run by pig lovers that will raise a free-range rare-breed pig for you. You can choose your pig, stick pictures of it on your fridge, and then, when the time comes, discuss the butchering. All in all, it works out at around £300 per animal.

Where to buy

Middle White pork in mixed boxes from Richard Vaughan at Huntsham Farm, Herefordshire (01600 890296; www.huntsham.com). Gloucester Old Spot pork from Jan McCourt at Northfield Farm, Rutland (01664 474271; www.northfieldfarm.com). Berkshire and Tamworth pork from Pentre Pigs in Powys (01938 553430; www.pentrepigs.co.uk).

For information on where to buy Freedom Food pork, visit www.freedomfood.co.uk

You can "adopt at pig" at www.numberonepig.co.uk (0845 6039478) and www.yorkshiremeats.co.uk (07931 509849).

Readers' queries

Where can I buy good-quality ready-meals to heat up while our kitchen is being renovated?

Pipers Farm has a range made with its carefully reared meat and really good, fresh ingredients that taste just like you made them at home (01392 881380; www.pipersfarm.com).

If you have a food query, e-mail food.detective@thetimes.co.uk

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