It's no surprise that, after Ireland, Britain clocks up the largest consumption of potatoes in Europe. We average around 103kg per person a year, the equivalent of around 500 medium-sized potatoes, and while over the past 20 years sales of processed products have outstripped those of fresh potatoes, the two markets are now levelling out. “Growers are responding to the processed market with more individual, local varieties with specific tastes and cooking properties,” says Rob Burrow of the British Potato Council.

Which varieties work best for different cooking methods?

At one end of the scale you have waxy potatoes (think Jersey Royals), which have a moist texture and hold their shape when boiled, so work well in salads. At the opposite end are floury potatoes, which are drier, more grainy and break up more easily. One of the most famous, though hard to find, is the Irish favourite, Golden Wonder. Floury potatoes make wonderful fluffy mash, and, handled carefully, brilliantly crisp roast potatoes or chips. Then there are the all-purpose varieties, such as Maris Piper and Desiree, which hit a mid-point on the waxy/floury scale, so will do most things OK, but can lack the wow factor of a specialist potato. That said, Heston Blumenthal plumped for Maris Piper for his famous three-stage chips, which are simmered gently, then blanched in oil and finally fried, with refrigeration in between each process.

Can you buy British all year round?

The joy of British potatoes is that around 100 varieties can be grown here, each with their own character and season, yet until recently the market was dominated by a handful of varieties, topped up with imports. At Carroll's Heritage Potatoes in Northumberland, Lucy and Anthony Carroll specialise in around 20 highly individual “heritage” varieties. These are the rare-breed pigs of the potato world, and favourites include the floury Dunbar Rover, which, says Lucy, “Makes wonderful mash and is beautiful baked, or roasted. The flavour is really buttery with a delicate sweetness.” Waxy Pink Fir, Roseval and Ratte are the ones for salad, and to complete a patriotic red, white and blue potato mix, there are Highland Burgundies and the confusingly named Salad Blues (they are floury not waxy).

Where to buy?

Carroll's Heritage Potatoes, Tiptoe Farm, Northumberland, (01890 883060; www.heritage-potatoes.co.uk). Jersey Royals direct from www.jerseyroyalpotatopost.com; 07797 746464. Waitrose encourages more unusual varieties — key the grower code on its bag labels into www.growingtrust.com to find out about the farm where they were grown. Golden Wonder seeds from Thompson and Morgan (01473 688821; www.potatoes.thompson-morgan.com).

Readers' queries

Where can I buy the “Dukkah” Middle Eastern spice dip containing hazelnuts and sesame?

Seasoned Pioneers sells the spice blend (add olive oil for a dip), £2.50 for 30g (www.seasonedpioneers.co.uk; 0800 0682348).

If you have a food query, e-mail food.detective@thetimes.co.uk

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