Not so long ago, North Londoners believed that South London was populated only by gangsters, boxing gyms and dangerous dogs. They were perhaps thankful that you couldn't get there by Tube. But that was before King's Cross ratholes became affordable only for celebrity chefs, and a gentrifying wave of property-starved northsiders went across the river. In Herne Hill - frontier country, where the tide of postmodern bars, ironic cafes and shops full of overpriced children's clothes is lapping at the railway arches - indigenous culture holds out in the Half Moon; not only South London to its core but, true to form, complete with its own boxing gym.

What's it like?

The link between boxing and pubs goes back to at least the 18th century when, in the absence of fruit machines, a bare-knuckle bout was a bankable way to pull the punters. The Half Moon has hosted a fighters' gym for 50 years; today it's run by former British and European light welterweight champion Clinton McKenzie. As well as honing the skills of serious sluggers, the gym does a roaring trade in boxercise classes; the pub offers post-punchbag relief for all. A palatial Grade II-listed Victorian pile, it sparkles with etched glass, gilded chandeliers, elaborate granite columns and fabulous painted mirrors showing tranquil scenes of waterbirds.

What do they drink?

There's not much call for caipirinhas or watermelon martinis at the Half Moon, where drinking is about pints, traditional spirits, and not much else. Someday soon, no doubt, it'll be bottles of pinot grigio washed down with sun-dried wasabi, but not just yet. For now, even asking for peanuts with your pint feels a bit soft. Unless, of course, they're for your dangerous dog.

Half Moon, 10 Half Moon Lane, Herne Hill, London SE24 (020-7274 2733)

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