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It may be a food redolent of luxurious indulgence, but that has not stopped one of the world’s most opulent department stores from purging it from its food hall.
Harvey Nichols, purveyor of Britain’s more exclusive foodstuffs, has announced that it is to stop selling foie gras after a meeting with animal rights activists and a campaign of store-front protests.
The move has prompted connoisseurs to speculate that if even Harvey Nichols, beloved of the rich of pocket and palate, has abandoned foie gras, then the Gascon delicacy must be in dire straits indeed.
The Knightsbridge department store joins a long line of retailers that have taken the pâté off their shelves.
The store cited commercial reasons for the move, which campaigners seized on as proof that consumers were turning against it and top-range department stores are now under increasing pressure to follow suit.
Animal rights activists say that the foie gras industry relies on cruelty to the birds, ducks and geese, that have their livers swollen to up to ten times their normal size by a process of force-feeding, known as gavage.
The groups say that they routinely find dying geese and ducks in farms, often with holes in their necks.
This year has been a bad one for a delicacy that has earned a reputation as the most decadent of foodstuffs.
Dozens of outlets have banned the food, including House of Fraser and Jenners, the prestigious Edinburgh department store.
At the other end of the market, Makro, the cash-and-carry, said last month that it would no longer sell the product.
This year a councillor in York vied to follow the example of Chicago and make the city Britain’s first foie gras-free zone and failed because it was not considered to be in the authority’s remit.
Arnold Schwarzenegger passed a law in California phasing it out, and 138 MPs have signed an early day motion calling for a ban.
Ben Bradshaw, as Environment Minister, put the boot in when he called for a consumer-led boycott in February.
Noemie Ventura, the foie gras campaign manager for the charity People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta), said that the group is targeting the department stores it sees as the last refuge of the product.
“We met Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and Fortnum & Mason. We showed them video footage of geese in a foie gras farm, which we left with them. It’s the worst cruelty I’ve seen. And the cruelty is happening because of the retailers.”
Production of foie gras has already been banned in Britain, but European free-trade legislation means its sale cannot easily be prohibited.
It continues to fetch premium prices. Fortnum & Mason charges £60 for a 310g goose liver, which is enough to make starters for four or five people.
Supporters of the trade say a ban would take away diners’ freedom of choice and decimate the 15,000 farms in France that produce more than 75 per cent of the world’s foie gras.
But statistics suggest that Britain no longer has the stomach it once did for the delicacy.
By 2004 it was estimated that Britain consumed 50 tonnes of foie gras annually – a tiny proportion of the 20,000 tonnes produced around the world each year – and is reckoned to have slumped still further after bans by supermarkets and department stores.
Giles Coren, the Times food writer, praised the move. “It’s a lazy, lazy way for a half-competent chef to make his food seem flash,” he said. “If rich plutocrats have to go down the All Saints Road to buy it off scary blokes with knives, then all the better.”
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I would love to shove a 12 inch pole down Thomas Brown's throat and force feed him for a few weeks. He might feel differently.
P. Oconnor, Arlington, Va
Apparently some arrogant people seem to think that eating animals no matter how cruel it might be is what defines a human being. I'm glad to find that there are other compasionate and intelligent people that understand that a human being is defined by it's intelligent and capacity to make intelligent decitions and not by their barbaric ways to torture and kill other living creatures.
''As often as Herman had witnessed the slaughter of animals and fish, he always had the same thought: In their behavior toward creatures, all men were Nazis. The smugness with which man could do with other species as he pleased exemplified the most extreme racist theories, the principle that might is right''
Andres Grijalva, London, England
animal sufering shall never be carried out or encuraged unless this is extremely nessesary, even less to create a luxury product that comes from a force fed, sick animal.
This is a clear example of the selfishnes, unmoral, lack of enviromental understanding and apreciation that the human its aproching. im not an animal right activist,but it is quite clear that force fed foie gras needs to stop on the grounds of humanity.
its is amusing to reed the many comments with luck of objective and only atacking animal rights activist...dont waste your time writing and my time reading if you have nothing clever to say.
Angus Macnab, London, England
This is a crying shame, and a complete nonsense. There is no sense in which the production of Foie Gras is more cruel than the battery production of chickens and eggs, and in most cases it is far less so.The consumption of animals is one of the things which defines as humans, and this is sheer fascism. I shall make a point of eating Foie Gras asa regularly as possible from now on-it is a life-affirming delicacy.
Thomas Brown, Bristol,
Most of the comments here are made by ignorant, short-sighted people with questionable morals. Their attitudes reflect a general apathy that is causing so many problems in this country. It's all very well quoting "freedom of choice" but on that principle people would have the freedom to torture and murder a human being. These activities are deemed unacceptable in a society of so-called conscious beings. Why should people be able to commit these offences against other sentient animals?
I am a vegan but I do not wish to stop everyone eating meat. I believe that people who choose to eat meat should be restricted by what they can purchase. Intensive farming has no place in a civilised society. Only meat or dairy products from animals reared humanely should be available. As usual the general public only care about an issue when it becomes a personal threat. Hazards such as BSE and bird flu are only the beginning if we continue ignoring animal welfare.
Gemma, Bath,
It's ominous that Keith Wilson happens to live in france while defending the unatural force feeding of geese for foie gras . If you are vegetarian no animals have to be killed for food , so mr wilson put that in your pipe and smoke it .
Jean Bennington, Prestatyn, Denbighshire
I'd comment more fully on the article but I don't think it's possible to say it better than Keith Wilson. Animal rights 'terrorists' will continue hacking away until they enforce vegitarianism on all of us - which is not going to happen, guys...
What got me was when a couple of years ago they introduced the argument that fur was intrinsically evil because it was not a by-product of the food industry. This was then touted around by an unchallenging media which failed to ask the obvious questions of 'so what?' and 'this hasn't mattered for the last 'x' centuries, why does it suddenly matter now'?
Does the fact that mink pattie hasn't made it onto the menu at McDonalds yet make it wrong? Would PETA stop if the McMink Burger were added on?
If I owned fur it would be sorely tempting to walk past the fur Nazis protesting outside Harrods with a t-shirt saying 'this is the only fur I wear'.
Chris Jackson, London,
It is a dark day when vocal minorities restrict the choice and enjoyment of everyone else, and then scream at us for a lack of morals. I wonder how many of them have leather shoes/belts/purses, or take medicine, or drink milk, or eat eggs, or eat crops which have been planted at the expense of some animal's natural habitat. Hypocrites! Why can they just shut up and leave the rest of us alone.
I will continue to eat it, principally because I think it tastes divine. An orgasm on a plate...
Graham, London,
The customers of Harvey Nichols and Fortnumand Mason, who park up their Chelsea Tractors, while popping in for some tasty tit bits should come to South West France and see how real people with real tractors earn a living before dismissing an industry about which they know nothing.
Barbara, France,
I love the quote from Mr. Coren. As Sir John Gielgud has said, "foie gras is a disease, not a delicacy." This video, narrated by Sir Roger Moore, should be enought to turn anyone off foie gras:
http://www.goveg.com/feat/foie/
Go Harvey Nicks! Boycott Selfridge's and any other store that still sells foie gras.
David Sellers, Washington, DC
And another slice of democracy falls to the knife of animal rights extremists. Threats and blackmail triumph in a country which fails to defend it's citizens from these thugs.
What next, Lamb? (they pull the dummies from their mouths before slitting their throats, don't you know?)
Anyone who has visited an abattoir would be shocked by our food production, in particular, the Hallal method (but we shy away from challenging that). But it's a fact of life and we must live with it.
These people (PETA in particular) are winning by intimidation and gradually they will inflict their will on our right to enjoy our stature in the food chain.
Incidentally, Geese and Ducks do not have a "gag" reflex, they gorge themselves before migrating naturally in nature. The production of foi-gras mimics their behaviour in their natural environment. But let us not let facts get in the way of an animal rights campaign. Millions of animals die each week to feed us, this is not Disneyland.
Keith Wilson, Beziers, France
Once again a bunch of thugs,called the animal rights use intimidation to force others to have their perspective.
Why do people give into them!
Surely its up to the individial to have the right to chose.I personally hate the stuff,so I dont buy it.Thats the way it should be,what gives these people the right to dictate to others?
I still think people look great in fur coats,and so do people from most other European countries,you only have to walk round Paris to see how these lovely coats are appreciated,but in Britain people are too scared to do so as once again these idiots think they have the right to dictate to the rest of us their ill conceived values.!
These do gooders are obviously short of somethig to occupy their small minds
iain Milligan, Dubai, UAE