Ben Hoyle
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Gourmets in search of the best food in Britain should avoid the fashionable restaurants in London and head into the regions, according to the new edition of the Good Food Guide.
For the first time, the food bible of the middle classes has ranked its 40 highest-scoring restaurants and found that nearly three quarters are outside the capital.
London has 11 in the top 40 – not even double the number in the South West, which has six.
At the top of the pile is The Fat Duck in Bray, whose chef, Heston Blumenthal, is credited with “white-hot gastronomic alchemy”. He edges Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant in Chelsea into second place, which is the celebrity chef’s third such blow from a leading guide in a month The highest new entry is Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, Cornwall, at number 12, which demonstrates “refined, beautifully crafted cooking” in a relaxed setting. Other highly ranked newcomers include Gidleigh Park, Devon, at number 18 and Edinburgh’s Kitchin at 38.
The diversity of high-quality food around Britain is reflected in another first for the book: ten regional awards, nominated by the guide’s 30,000 readers. Caroline Blake, the series editor of the Good Food Guide, said that the list reflected a general raising of standards in regional restaurants, partly as a result of diners’ growing interest in locally sourced ingredients.
“There’s a real drive towards local produce, driven by consumers. Whether they’re concerned about the quality of the meat and fish or the number of air miles that their fruit has travelled, people want to know where their food has come from,” she said.
About 100 inspectors judged and ranked more than 1,200 restaurants for this year’s guide, almost double the number who contributed to the this year’s edition despite a reduction in dining privileges. For 55 years, since the guide’s launch, inspectors were entitled to claim a three-course meal for two and a bottle of wine. Now they are restricted to dinner for one and a single glass, which Ms Blake said had brought the Good Food Guideinto line with its competition.
Blumenthal said that the readers’ views that played a role in the Good Food Guide’s rankings were what set it apart and for The Fat Duck to win had “special significance”. “The Good Food Guideis the longest serving UK restaurant guide and we are really privileged to have received this award from their readers – our diners,” he said.
Top 40
(Cooking scores in brackets)
1 The Fat Duck, Bray, Berkshire (9)
2 Gordon Ramsay, Royal Hospital Road, London (9)
3 Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Great Milton, Oxfordshire (9)
4 Winteringham Fields, Winteringham, Lincolnshire (8)
5 Le Champignon Sauvage, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire (8)
6 Le Gavroche, London (8)
7 Pétrus, London (8)
8 Waterside Inn, Bray, Berks (8)
9 The Vineyard, Stockcross, Berks (8)
10 The Square, London (8)
11 Pied à Terre, London (8)
12 Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, Fowey, Cornwall (8)
13 L’Enclume, Cartmel, Cumbria (8)
14 Tom Aikens, London (8)
15 Restaurant Martin Wishart, Edinburgh (8)
16 The Capital, London (7)
17 Restaurant Sat Bains, Nottingham (7)
18Gidleigh Park, Chagford, Devon (7)
19 Anthony’s, Leeds (7)
20 Juniper, Altrincham, Cheshire (7)
21 Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles, Auchterarder, Perthshire (7)
22 Hambleton Hall, Oakham, Rutland (7)
23 Holbeck Ghyll, Windermere, Cumbria (7)
24 Fischer’s Baslow Hall, Derbys (7)
25 Tyddyn Llan, Llandrillo, Wales (7)
26 Harry’s Place, Grantham, Lincs (7)
27 The Creel, Orkney (7)
28 Mr Underhill’s, Ludlow, Shrops (7)
29 Bohemia, St Helier, Jersey(7)
30 Castle Hotel, Taunton (7)
31 Chester Grosvenor, Chester (7)
32 Old Vicarage, Ridgeway, Derbyshire (7)
33 Midsummer House, Cambridge (6)
34 Maze, London (6)
35 Club Gascon, London (6)
36 Simpsons, Birmingham (6)
37 Bath Priory, Bath (6)
38 The Kitchin, Edinburgh (6)
39 The Greenhouse, London (6)
40 The Ledbury, London (6)
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and dont forget McD's is now available in most towns.
M, hants, uk
Fortunately I ive in Bray! 2 in the top 10 and half an hour from 2,3,6,7,9,10,11 etc,..
Alan Stewart, Bray, Berksire
England and especially London has the best Indian vegetarian dining establishments in the world !
Brien Comerford, Glenview, United States
Only 1 in the North East in Leeds. I don't beleive it.
Norm, Newcastle, UK
Paul tamborinni at hotel du vin Glasgow is far superior to the Kitchin in Edinburgh.
bryan, glasgow, scotland
none in the whole of Sussex!
Alice, Brighton,
Slightly more detail than common restaurant names such as "Pied à Terre" would be useful, especially in London.
Ian Brown, London,
mr underhills did not close down two years ago, the merchant house did ...
richard lander, barcelona,
UK wide, obviously not! I take it that someone has redrawn the map to ignore Norn Iron's gastronomic contribution...ever heard of Nick's Warehouse, Deanes, Roscoffs, James St South...I could go on but I dont think you'd get the point
tony o'neill, Belfast, Northern Ireland
What a narrow choice ! Why not include other types of great food - japanese , Chinese ( many types ) , Italian etc .Or is this too difficult a task for your "gourmets "
This is like producing a "best " of wine list which only includes french , italian , german etc without any of the NEW " world wines ---Australian , South African , Chilean and USA .
What a looad of rubbish you have just published.
The International travellers to the UK are looking for the "best" restaurants to visit - lets have a fair list - please .
david kirkman, hong kong , hong kong - SAR
Mr Underhills closed down 2 years ago!!!
F Metzo, Ludlow, UK shropshire
I count only five South West restaurants but six in the East Midlands - Winteringham, Sat Bains, Hambleton, Fischer's, Harry's Place and The Old Vicarage.
Andy, Manchester, UK