Valerie Elliott, Countryside Editor
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A leading member of the Soil Association, which urges consumers to buy locally produced food, is transporting meat hundreds of miles across Europe to produce bacon and sausages.
Helen Browning, the director of food and farming at the charity, which campaigns for and certifies organic produce, sends pig shoulders from Wiltshire to Germany for processing into sausages and imports pork loins from Sweden to make bacon.
The Soil Association’s website endorses a campaign to “Eat Organic, Buy Local” and urges consumers to seek out local produce.
“With a healthily growing local food sector, there are now more opportunities to buy fresh locally grown organic produce. We can all play our part in supporting local organic food by voting with our shopping basket,” it says.
Oliver Walston, a prominent arable farmer who has 2,000 acres near Cambridge, said that Ms Browning was guilty of double standards. “I like organic food and I like Helen Browning. But what sticks in my throat is to hear an organisation say on the one hand ‘eat local’ and on the other hand she can say, ‘our sausages will be made in Germany and our bacon will come from Sweden’.
“Any consumer who listens to the Soil Association saying you should eat local and cut food miles will be amazed about Helen Browning’s produce,” he said.
Ms Browning, who advises the Government on the Sustainable Food and Farming Strategy, is supplied with pigs for sausage meat from farms in Gloucestershire, Dorset, Wiltshire and Somerset. The animals are slaughtered in Gloucester before their frozen shoulders are sent to Nuremberg to be processed and packaged.
Her bacon supplies come from pigs reared near Gothenburg, where they are slaughtered. Their loins are then sent to Suffolk for packaging and sold in Tesco and Sainsbury.
Ms Browning, 45, was unavailable for comment yesterday. Tim Finney, the commercial director of her company, Eastbrook Farm Organic Meats, said that the business was forced to seek pig farms outside Britain last July because of a shortfall in the supply of British organic pigs.
“We found suitable farms in Sweden. We have changed their practices to ensure that they are raised in full accordance with Soil Association guidelines,” he said.
“ Mr Finney added that the company had sent frozen shoulders to Germany since 2002 because the Nuremberg packers preserved meat using a heat process that was not available in Britain. “It meant that the sausages lasted longer, which is vital if you are dedicated to not using preservatives, as we are,” he said. Mr Finney said that Ms Browning was not guilty of hypocrisy. “I have never met anybody who has less inclination towards double standards. She has spent 20 years of her life trying to persuade British people to rear organic produce and set up a business to try and sell it. If she could sell just British products, she would,” he said.
He added that three more British organic pig producers will begin supplying Eastbrook from May 2008.
Lawrence Woodward, director of the Elm Farm Organic Research Centre, which campaigns to tighten organic standards, said: “It is not good that they have to transport the meat out. But they have not been able to find a processor in Britain willing to guarantee the quality they want and to work to their recipes.
“People would be surprised about it and don’t expect it and it is hard to explain. But if you can’t find anyone in the UK, what do you do? The alternative is to go out of business. The lack of facilities for small-scale operators in this country is desperate.”
— Additional reporting by Martha Bedford.
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Nope sorry M Onslow, I agree with Valentine, whilst there are benifits to the enviornment and to sustainability in SOME of Organic farming practices it neither makes food healthier or better. Sure some of it tastes better, much better but this because they have been left to roam outside and eat grass, etc. NOT because they are Organic. YOu can have hormone reared animals that live on grass, yum good eating. and sustainable too. No you eco freeks who refise to listen to the real science get of the band wagon and do somthing useful for a change.
Chris, Yorks,
I'm all for organic food which often tastes far better (particularly in the case of lamb). However, this campaign to "buy local" seriously discriminates against those regions of the world (for example Africa) where agriculture is what they do best and which depend on the international trade in agricultural produce.
Arnold Ward, Weybridge, Surrey, UK
Valentine you really, really, really need to check your facts before you proffer these kinds of statements. Fortunately I suspect (hope) other people are better informed and will simply roll eyes heavenwards on reading your comment.
No-one who IS better informed would suggest that organic food production systems do not have better environmental footprint, better animal welfare standards, and better traceability systems than the majority of the mass produced food available. That's just for starters. And there is an increasing body of information building up which demonstrates that organic food contains more of the things that are good for you, and less of the things that are bad for you.
It may not always be local, but creating a market with produce from abroad can help stimulate local production long term. And it's not always more expensive - fact. Where it is more expensive, be assured there is a very good reason for it.
You don't work for the FSA by any chance do you??
M Onslow, Northern Ireland, UK
Slowly but surely, people are beginning to see just how fraudulent are organic claims. Organic food is not healthier or more nutritious or safer than any other; organic methods are not better for âthe environmentâ; organic food is not even local. Itâs just more expensive.
Valentine Dyall , London,
When the Social Association decided to get involved in the "food miles" & "carbon footprint" debates, it made a big mistake. It knows a lot about organic food production, certification, and quality, and that's why its members join it and trust it . It doesn't have a mandate to say anything about transport. 'Eat Local' could actually mean 'Boycott Organic' in a lot of cases.
Gordon Rae, Totnes, Devon, UK