Richard Ehrlich
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Pressure cookers. Aren’t they something that granny used? Well, maybe she did. But so do I, as of a couple of months ago. And I’ve learnt that they’re not only brilliant, but one of the greenest cooking methods imaginable.
Just in case you’re not sure what pressure cookers do, here’s the simple low-down. Water under pressure boils at around 40C higher than water in the open air. The extra heat cuts cooking times by as much as 75 per cent.
My pressure cooker is a bells-and-whistles Tefal Jamie Oliver Clipso, costing around £70. It includes a clever timer, user-friendly controls for opening and closing, and double handles (strongly recommended) for easy lifting. I’m sure you can make do with a simpler model, but get one with a minimum capacity of 6 litres for cooking large quantities.
The pressure cooker presents little green advantage for certain foods. Many green vegetables, for instance, cook very fast in a lidded frying pan. It’s with longer-cooked items that the vessel really sails. New potatoes steam perfectly in five to eight minutes. The same time will give you lusciously soft braised cabbage.
Even more dramatic time and energy savings come with meat and poultry. Braised beef short ribs can be perfectly cooked in 30 minutes; red-cooked Chinese chicken thighs take just 10 minutes.
I’m planning to get more ambitious with the PC. My friend and colleague John Whiting, veteran of decades of pressure, cooks a chicken tagine that sounds appealing. Expect further reports in these pages. In the meantime, a word of warning: with PCs as with all cooking, you have to learn by experience. It isn’t a magic bullet. But is it worth the trouble? You bet it is, if you like saving time without sacrificing quality. And in the Green Kitchen, time = CO2.
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