Richard Ehrlich
Star musicians and your favourite Times writers at the Albert Hall
Pressure cookers. Aren’t they something that granny used? Well, maybe she did. But so do I, as of a couple of months ago. And I’ve learnt that they’re not only brilliant, but one of the greenest cooking methods imaginable.
Just in case you’re not sure what pressure cookers do, here’s the simple low-down. Water under pressure boils at around 40C higher than water in the open air. The extra heat cuts cooking times by as much as 75 per cent.
My pressure cooker is a bells-and-whistles Tefal Jamie Oliver Clipso, costing around £70. It includes a clever timer, user-friendly controls for opening and closing, and double handles (strongly recommended) for easy lifting. I’m sure you can make do with a simpler model, but get one with a minimum capacity of 6 litres for cooking large quantities.
The pressure cooker presents little green advantage for certain foods. Many green vegetables, for instance, cook very fast in a lidded frying pan. It’s with longer-cooked items that the vessel really sails. New potatoes steam perfectly in five to eight minutes. The same time will give you lusciously soft braised cabbage.
Even more dramatic time and energy savings come with meat and poultry. Braised beef short ribs can be perfectly cooked in 30 minutes; red-cooked Chinese chicken thighs take just 10 minutes.
I’m planning to get more ambitious with the PC. My friend and colleague John Whiting, veteran of decades of pressure, cooks a chicken tagine that sounds appealing. Expect further reports in these pages. In the meantime, a word of warning: with PCs as with all cooking, you have to learn by experience. It isn’t a magic bullet. But is it worth the trouble? You bet it is, if you like saving time without sacrificing quality. And in the Green Kitchen, time = CO2.
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you should soak the red beans for a few hours in warm water or even over night and then pressure cook. it should only take about 10 -15 whistles.
shiv, london,
I bought a pressure cooker some time ago to cook pulses, etc. I cooked some red kidney beans for about 1.5 hours on and off and the beans were still as hard as bullets. I thought they might be stale so tried another packet with the same results. Where am I going wrong? Can anyone help please?
Eileen Kenny, Harrow, Middlesex
I've just bought a pressure cooker yesterday after reading your artical,I tried it for the first time last night to make rice to go with a curry i had previuosly made.Wow,I follwed the simple steps and was shocked by the results,the rice was nto stuck together it was perfectly shaped and fabulous! I can't wait to try out a whole host of recipes that came in the booklet with my cooker.
Gary Woolven, Bridlington, UK
A pressure cooker with spring-loaded rather than weight-loaded pressure control gives a further advantage. Because no liquid is lost in steam during the cooking, a very small amount of liquid can be used, resulting in stock/juices that are very concentrated without the need of further reduction. In fact, meat cooked on a low rack with very little liquid is in effect "steam roasted", as in an expensive restaurant steam oven.
John Whiting, London,
Thirty years ago my Mother gave me a pressure cooker and as you say it is definitely worth the trouble. On page 81 the Food Detective Sheila Keating refers to stock cubes. Put all the bones and left overs in a pressure cooker, steam for twenty minutes and hey presto you have the best stock ever and you know exactly what has gone into it.
Betty Field, Southampton, Hampshire