Despite global warming, we still can’t compete with balmier countries in terms of growing fruit such as luscious figs and peaches. But while our climate often provides wardrobe crises by flitting between sunshine and rain, itdoes produce exquisite apples and pears.

The complex, aromatic flavour of a November cox’s orange pippin – the Chateau d’Yquem of English apples – or the melt-in-the-mouth fragrance of a ripe doyenne du comice pear is hard to beat. And with food miles a big concern, it seems sensible to support British-grown fruit, so seek out and savour some of the more unusual varieties.

KEEPING IT BRITISH

Apples

Ashmead’s kernel is highly aromatic, fine-textured and juicy

Blenheim orange has a warm, nutty flavour and tender crisp flesh

Charles Ross has juicy, coarse-textured flesh

Chivers delight at its best has an aromatic, mildly tart taste

Crispin is a mild, fresh-tasting apple

King of the pippins has a crisp, nutty flavour

Red pippin has a rich, sweet flavour and a slight tang

Spartan originated in Canada and has small, sweet, rich-tasting fruit

St Edmunds russet has small, sweet, well-balanced fruit

Winter wonder is a new British apple similar to a cox’s orange pippin

Pears

Black Worcester is an ancient British cooking pear perfect for old-fashioned warden pear pies; it requires 1-2 hours’ gentle baking

Elliot is a new blushed russet pear that is similar to conference

Glou Morceau is second only to comice: eat when the skin turns pale yellow and the flesh is firm but melting

Louise Bonne of Jersey was a popular freckled, rustic variety of pear that disappeared from commercial orchards in the 20th century

Taylor’s gold was originally bred in New Zealand and has melting, fragrant flesh and a golden russet skin

Vicar of Winkfield needs to be cooked to get its full flavour

Recipes

Prosciutto, rocket and apple cheese

Apple cheese

Grilled salmon with pear salsa

Seared pork fillet with lemon thyme red cabbage

Pear ice-cream

Apple pie

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