Peter Millar
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The lights are going out all over Britain. We shall not see them lit again in our lifetime. Or possibly ever. To paraphrase the British foreign secretary on the eve of the first world war might seem over the top, but we are facing a threat to the British way of life that I consider vastly more important than the existence of Belgium.
The British pub is under threat. An institution adored and envied all over the world is disappearing before our very eyes and with it our national drink, beer, as the nation that invented jingoism succumbs to its terminal preference for anything foreign.
It says as much as our football players’ performance on the pitch – or the number of foreigners in the Premier League – that the England team are sponsored by a Danish brewer. And how do we greet tourists from the Continent arriving at our magnificently refurbished St Pancras station? With a bar selling fizzy French wine at £8.95 a glass.
Vive la différence – the difference is that it’s twice what you’d pay in France.
According to figures released by the British Beer and Pubs Association (BBPA) last week, beer sales in pubs are down by 14m pints a day, or 49%, from 1979 levels. Nearly 60 pubs each month shut their doors for good.
This at a time when the alcohol abuse lobby, fifth column of the nanny state, is complaining about a binge drinking culture fuelled by 24-hour drinking.
Have any of them tried to find a pub in central London that is still open after 11pm on a weekday? It’s not easy. According to the BBPA, just a tiny number of pubs have added more than an hour to their opening times and that only at weekends.
The binge drinking culture is there – look at any town centre on a weekend – but it is built on people getting tanked up on cheap supermarket booze at home before going out to hit the bars and clubs that always had later licences anyway.
It revolves around vodka chasers, tequila slammers and overcarbonated imitations of continental lagers, produced by big corporations that pour millions into advertising them.
A quiet pint overlooking a cricket game on the village green is an iconic image of English identity, yet in rural areas particularly, rising property prices and fewer pub-goers mean inns that were once at the heart of communities become private “period” homes. Then the people who move into them wonder why there’s nowhere near to have a half on a Sunday and what happened to their rural idyll when nobody knows anybody any more.
A crucial element in encouraging the rot was the arrival of the alcopop in the mid1980s weaning an entire generation onto alcohol as a sweet fizzy drink. Restrictive licensing – keeping children out of most pubs and closing at 11pm – meant they grew up on alcohol bought (by an older mate) or shoplifted from supermarkets and drunk in bus shelters. As soon as they were old enough they gravitated to the bars and clubs that sold the same sort of drinks and didn’t send young adults home hours before bedtime.
Hence the modern prevalence of “second generation” alcopops – drinks such as WKD, heavily advertised, quirkily coloured vodka mixes, and vodka itself, a cheap, easily made spirit hyped by packaging and a hefty dose of prime-time telly.
If the government and the antidrinking nannies were serious about hitting binge drinking they would ban all alcohol advertising – listen to the television companies squeal! – restoring a level playing field for the small producers of traditional ales.
An acquaintance of mine, a retirement-age senior partner in a Midlands accountancy firm, boasts of never going out to the pub as if it is a sign of social advancement from his working-class roots to prefer to “sit at home of an evening with a glass of wine”. Snobbery, as ever, the telling British vice.
Yet not at the top. Young’s brewery still treasures its photograph of the Queen Mother pulling a pint. Prince Charles’s “the pub is the hub” campaign was right on message. It’s just a pity that the poor bloke rarely gets the chance to go down his local: most of his other ideas are the sort of thing you hear people come up with all the time after a couple of pints.
British beer and the British pub are joined at the hip, intermingled like no other alcoholic combination. British ale bought in a bottle is a fine but different product from cask ale drunk in a pub. Traditional real ale is a labour-intensive artisanal drink made with natural products and producing a rich range of flavours.
My local, the Pear Tree in Hook Norton, Oxfordshire, is blessed by being owned by the village’s brewery 150 yards away – which still delivers locally by horse-drawn dray – but we are well aware how lucky we are and terrified that we might be living on borrowed time.
Regulars include a jobbing gardener, a carpenter with a degree in earth sciences, the drayman who looks after the brewery horses, a nursery school teacher, a builder, a software writer, an optician, a lorry driver and one of the brainiest blokes I know who refills cigarette machines. Very few of us would know each other if it weren’t for the pub.
So stop reading this and get down to your local. Buy a pint. Talk to somebody, get a life and save a British institution.
Your country needs you!
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Fear not, craft brewing is alive and well, The art of brewing continues at home by a dedicated band of artisans.
106 brews where on offer at our annual festival in Derby last year, judged by international beer judges who have also attended the London, CAMRA event. We are not restricted to what sells, but offer the whole beer range, including many older beer style that your great grandfather would have drunk.
The press coverage of beer, our heritage drink is very poor, high praise for Mr Miller's article, the heart of Britain is still beating, just!
Perhaps he would like to carry on the campaign and report on the craft of brewing, quality, not quantity.
G Kingham, Alswear, Devon
When bars decided to promote smoking bans, they sent a clear message "smokers and their companions are no longer welcome".
If your hospitality is selective rather than inclusive, don't whine when your customers get the message.
Now that alcohol is the target, the point comes home to roost.
Your bending over the first time had a price in continuing with your expected flexibility. Your generous support of "protecting" others, in attempting to force their hand in deciding for them to quit smoking, will now find it's just rewards with quiting drinking beer in boring deserted pubs, that much easier.
England without pubs? Scratch that option off the travel plans.
Don't fret though, the non smokers will be rushing in to fill those non smoking seats any day now as promised.
Kevin, Brampton,
One of our locals started offering a weekly guest ale a couple of years ago. This became popular enough for the landlord to increase this to two different ales. Since July 1st, his sales have declined so much that he canât keep the beer in good condition. Rather than running the risk of serving up vinegar, heâs taken the guest beers off.
For some reason, CamRA seem to think the smoking ban is a good thing.
Karen, Retford, England
Blame the Brewey's they forced out the O.A.P's out of the pubs because the young have more money and the still charge stupid prices for not only beer but also soft drinks so you don't get One driver staying sober because they won't pay £2or more for a pint of cke etc.
sydney hobson, Leeds, UK
"So stop reading this and get down to your local. Buy a pint. Talk to somebody, get a life and save a British institution.
Your country needs you"!
Unless of course you are a smoker, then you would be best off at home, in the warm. That is exactly where I will stay, and many like me.
Funny, I thought before the ban, when all the alcopops wher available, the lack of customers were not a problem?
mandyv, cambs, UK
The main reason why pubs are going to the wall is the smoking ban.
Tim Clarke, Wigan, England
Perhaps bar prices have been the major factor in driving people from pubs to supermarkets. I had a drink with a colleague at lunchtime last week and was staggered by the cost of the bottle of well known German beer he ordered. £2.10. I saw the same bottle yesterday in Tescos at 40p each. Having say five bottles in the pub would cost £8.50 more than having them at home.
Ross, Liverpool,
A refereshing view on alcohol's role in society.
I agree that a village pub and a few pints doesn't lead to the excessesses seen in town centres.
Can we have more columns like this?
Jamal, Goring on Thames, Berkshire
A fantastic commentary on Britain's cultural state of affairs.
I am eighteen and an ale-evangelist: as much for the politics as the quality of the product.
Sadly people my age with similar views are scarce.
CamRA (Campaign for Real Ale) are a fantastic organisation that not only promote this wonderful British product, but for the rights of the drinker, pub and brewery. Visit their website to find out more!
Alex Ward, Keynsham, Bristol, UK