Who would have thought, a generation or so ago, that the subject of Christmas stuffing would become such a contentious issue? Not only do we have myriad flavours to argue over, from pancetta and garlic to chestnuts, spices and dried fruit, but there’s also the question of whether to stuff the festive bird or bake the stuffing separately.

Why should you cook the stuffing separately?

The Food Standards Agency sees Christmas as prime food-poisoning time, largely thanks to people underestimating the extra roasting time you need to allow for stuffed turkeys, in particular. Remember, you need to weigh the bird after it has been stuffed and up the cooking time accordingly. Also, be aware that the stuffing causes the bird to cook more slowly. Personally, I love those crunchy outside bits you get on a really tasty stuffing when it is baked outside the bird. However, many a chef and traditional cook beg to differ. “For me,” says Claire Symington of Seldom Seen farm, famous for her free-range geese, “some things are non-negotiable: the stuffing should go inside the bird, scenting the meat. The important thing is not to pack it tightly,” she adds. “It will expand a bit, and you need to leave room for steam to circulate and cook it properly.”

What’s in packet stuffing?

Lots of dried things, from herbs to onion and garlic, and, depending on the brand, flavourings, flavour enhancers, raising agents, anti-caking agents, glucose syrup, sugar, etc. Wheatflour is often the first ingredient listed, which shows its importance to the recipe, with salt pretty high up, too. All pertinent reasons to make your own, or choose a good ready-made fresh one. At her farm shop (www.seldomseenfarm.co.uk; 0116-259 6742), Claire Symington sells the fresh pork and orange stuffing that she uses to layer her famous three-bird roast (goose stuffed with chicken stuffed with pheasant). For goose, she also recommends a classic sage and onion stuffing. “For me, though, the best ever stuffing for goose or turkey is the one my mother made using the giblets when I was a child,” she says. “You fry 2 finely chopped onions in about 25g butter until soft, then add the diced giblets and fry for 3-4 minutes. Mix these with 250g cooked rice (preferably brown) and 125g chopped cooked mushrooms, a good tablespoon of chopped parsley, 50g raisins and 2 small eggs and season. I also like to boil up the goose or turkey neck first with some onions and carrots to make a stock, and use that to cook the rice, then I pick off the meat from the neck and add it to the cooked giblets.”

Readers’ queries

Where can I find a “vegetarian” haggis to serve at New Year?

Caledonian Connoisseur offers a choice of haggis, from traditional to vegetarian, and also baby venison haggis from Nichola and John Fletcher’s renowned farm in Auchtermuchty (01573 227310; www.caleyco.com).

If you have a food query, e-mail food.detective@thetimes.co.uk

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