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The dark world of eel poaching was exposed in France when two fishermen went on trial accused of selling tens of thousands of euros worth of the delicacy known as white gold.
Franck Marques, 34, and his brother, Thierry, 32, were charged with catching more than 300kg (660lb) of young eels in a case that has highlighted the growing threat to an already endangered species.
The trial came amid evidence that dozens of poachers have decimated the European eel population to supply restaurants in France and breeders in Japan, where the fish is also highly prized. The black market price for a kilo of elvers is €500 (£360) and twice as much in Japan, the court in Bordeaux was told.
Gastronomes in southwestern France call the tiny transparent elvers l'or blanc (white gold) because they are considered to be one of the finest local dishes when fried with garlic, red peppers and olive oil. Each weighs only 0.2g.
They rarely feature on the official menu because restaurateurs do not want to attract attention and awkward questions. But l'or blanc is usually available for regulars who are in the know, especially in January, when it is in season.
François Ruffié, a lawyer for the French Federation of Fishery Protection Officers, said, however, that elver numbers were falling. “White gold is disappearing partly because the waters are polluted and partly because of poaching.” He told the hearing this week that the Marques brothers had been caught poaching regularly but never paid their fines “because they have organised their bankruptcy”. Marianne Doménach, the state prosecutor, called for Franck Marques to be given an 18-month suspended prison sentence and his brother six months. She said that they should also be ordered to do community service.
The court was told that they had supplied 313kg of elvers over a ten-year period to an intermediary identified only as Popaul, who sold the ingredients to local chefs or Japanese middlemen.
The Marques brothers noted all their deals in a book, giving gendarmes the evidence that they needed for a prosecution.
Detectives believe that the brothers — who are also suspected of a black-market trade in secondhand cars — made about €10,000 a year from their poaching activities.
They admitted poaching but called for a lenient sentence because they said that they used a small net. Judgment was suspended until January.
With scientists saying the European eel population has fallen by up to 75 per cent over the past 20 years, gendarmes have begun a crackdown during the winter fishing season. Teams have been scouring the Gironde and Loire estuaries, where elvers are to be found, sometimes accompanied by helicopters with searchlights at night.
But a gendarmerie spokesman said: “There are up to 200 poachers working in gangs and most are well organised with spotters to say when we are coming.”
About 200 fishermen have licences enabling them to fish for elvers legally in France.
SERVES TWO
Ingredients
400g elvers
100g garlic
25g crushed Espelette pepper
Olive oil, salt, pepper
Parsley to taste
Method
Fry the garlic and Espelette pepper in very hot olive oil, add the elvers, cook for two minutes, add salt and pepper and serve with parsley
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Though density of the adult population of eel in the UK remains stable, recruitment of the baby eels has fallen in recent years. The European eel is now listed as an endangered species by CITES.
While fishing and poaching has come under close scrutiny, the reduction in recruitment is not just a fisheries management problem. It is a European environmental problem that has been brought about by a society that has been dominated by technology and economic growth.
The importance of habitat needs to be recognised. More than 80% of wetland habitat has been destroyed since the 1850s. Those habitats than remain need to be accessible to the migrating eels. Much greater recognition should be given to the impact of civil engineering schemes on upstream and downstream migratory pathways. Agriculture, drainage, navigation, flood control have all contributed to the loss of habitat and migratory pathways.
A much greater effort needs to be made to support existing habitats and restore lost ones.
It is also possible that the climatic changes that are now being recorded are having an effect on the oceanic spawning areas.
There is no low cost solution to the current problems. The financial resources spent chasing fishermen with helicopters are probably better directed towards supporting environmental projects.
I can see no justification to use baby eels for culinary purposes. This valuable resource should either be used for restocking or at the least for farming projects to take pressure of wild caught stocks.
Regrettably the recovery of eel stocks to previous historic levels of abundance is not possible. The environmental changes that have taken place are on such a scale that it will not be possible to restore migratory pathways and habitat to that of even 50 years ago
From a fishing perspective there are some major differences between the methods used in the UK and France. In the UK the traditional hand fishing method that is friendly towards the environment and the baby eels has been preserved. The baby eels that are caught are of a particularly high quality and are used for restocking inland waters all over Europe. In France fishing with hand nets is now illegal and those caught using this method are viewed as poachers. Ironically the only legal method of fishing in France is to use powerful trawlers that not only consume large quantities of fossils fuels, leave little chance of the baby eels escaping but also guarantee that up to half of the baby eels that are caught are either killed or damaged in the fishing process.
Peter Wood, Gloucester,
Just another example of the ocean being fished and polluted out.
Many fish species and shell fish numbers are doing down.
Example: from over the (nearly fished out) pond. Grouper
claimed by some seafood restaurants is found not to be
grouper and if it is expect to pay a high price for it.
Jerry Scroggin, Phoenix, Arizona/USA
Such a shame that their rarity means I will probably never have the chance to witness the wonderful taste of elvers again, a taste that has stayed in my memory since the 70's when my father would bring home the odd pint around Easter.
My mother would refuse to cook them unless the eyes were removed, so my father took over and simply fried them with chopped bacon. Probably the only thing my father ever cooked.
Paul Ritchie, Southampton,