You might have seen the ad: Ann Widdecombe, the nation’s battle-axe virgin-in-chief, fronting the campaign to bring better tortelloni to Britain. It’s possibly one of the most irritating ever produced. But don’t let that put you off – the pasta is actually rather good. The brand is Giovanni Rana, Italy’s bestselling filled pasta, and it has recently appeared in British supermarkets. Rana, a bit of a national hero back home, was the first man to come up with a machine for making filled pasta on a commercial scale. He is even credited (only half jokingly) with reinvigorating Italian sex lives – the idea being, I presume, that if you unshackle people from the kitchen, they get to spend more time trussed up in the bedroom.

As with all mass-produced “fresh” pasta, there are ingredients you won’t find in mama’s kitchen, but it’s still an improvement on the supermarkets’ own labels. The pasta layer is unusually thin (only 0.5mm) and the fillings generous. My only gripe is with the varieties on sale over here – prosciutto crudo and cheese cappelletti, tortelloni with beef “bolognese”, tomato and mozzarella, and ricotta and spinach. The Italians get pumpkin with amaretti, so why can’t we?

If you want exotic fillings, The Fresh Pasta Company has a delicious venison tortelloni, or track down the excellent La Tua, which has seasonal variations such as pigeon and crab. They’re only available in London: if you live elsewhere, you’ll have to get your kicks in the bedroom instead.

Giovanni Rana, from Sainsbury’s, Asda and Morrisons; www.giovannirana.co.uk. The Fresh Pasta Company, from Fortnum & Mason and selected delis; www.thefreshpastacompany.com. La Tua, from Borough Market, SE1, and selected delis; www.latuapasta.com

SEVILLE ACTION

Don’t miss Seville orange season – they are in the shops for a couple of weeks more. Use the fruit for marmalade and the juice for salad dressings and ceviche. Or put a few in the freezer for a citrus hit later in the year.

SMOOTH OPERATOR

After the success of last year’s limited-edition Guinness variety, Marmite has done it again. This time, the spreadable special is Lovers’ Marmite with champagne, which hits the shops just in time for Valentine’s Day. Limited to 600,000 jars, it is slightly sweeter and smoother, with subtle floral hints of wine. Available nationwide for £2.99, or gild the lily with a personalised silver lid by Theo Fennell (from £95; www.theofennell.com). If you are giving it on February 14, just make sure your lover likes Marmite – or it could be a deal-breaker.

TAKE 3

Ed Sargent, of the Potting Shed pub in the Cotswolds, suggests the following wintry starter.

Serves 4

— 8 jerusalem artichokes, scrubbed clean
— 400g smoked haddock fillet, skinned
— 300g serrano ham, cut into strips

Quarter the artichokes and drop into a pan of boiling water. Cook for 15 minutes, so they retain some firmness but can be pierced with the tip of a knife.

Immerse the haddock in a pan of boiling water and poach gently until the flesh is firm. Remove, leave to cool, then flake.

In a bowl, toss the artichokes in mild olive oil, then drop into a hot frying pan. Cook until golden on all sides. Add the smoked haddock and warm through for 2-3 minutes, keeping it moving so it doesn’t stick. Finally, add the ham, season, and serve.

The Potting Shed, Crudwell, Malmesbury, Wiltshire; 01666 577833

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