MEAT AND GREET

Warning: vegetarians might want to look away. I’ve been having rather a meaty time of late. I only have to think about North Ronaldsay lamb and I start salivating. The native sheep of Orkney’s most northerly island are confined to the seashore by a stone wall, so they survive almost entirely on seaweed. This gives intensely savoury, dark, gamey meat – I devoured two chops before I even got them to the table.

Another recent highlight was rare-breed white park beef from Bickleigh, in Devon.

It is grass-reared to 30 months (compared with a UK average of 24), which results in an amazing texture and depth of flavour.

Currently top of my drool list, however, is offal. It is plate-lickingly delicious. I wonder why so many of us have lost touch with our inner innard-lover. Our squeamishness means an edible fifth of most animals is simply thrown away, which is a terrible waste. This year, give tripe and heart, tongues and kidneys another go.

Okay, veggies can look again now.

North Ronaldsay lamb, from £7.50 for a shank (Nov-Mar); www.orkneysbest.co.uk. Bickleigh beef, from £6.99 per kg, from Selfridges; 0800 123400

JUST THE TONIC
As a concession to my growing waistline, I have started making my G&Ts with Fever-Tree Naturally Light Tonic Water. The latest addition to this brilliant mixer range balances the astringent bitterness of top-quality quinine with Sicilian lemon oil and natural fruit sugars, so there is none of the cloying chemical sweetness you get with most low-calorie drinks. £2.99 for four 200ml bottles, from Waitrose, Oddbins, Majestic and off-licences; www.fever-tree.com

KUNG HEY FAT CHOI
The Chinese New Year starts on Thursday. It’s traditional to have a big feast the night before. So get ready to wok!

TAKE 3

Richard Hughes, the head chef of Gascoyne Place in Bath, suggests this simple partner for cold meats and sausages.

6 red onions, chopped
200g unrefined dark brown sugar (preferably muscovado)
50ml balsamic vinegar

Cook the onions with butter or oil until soft and caramelised. Add the sugar and cook on a low heat for 3 minutes until dissolved. Add the balsamic vinegar and bubble until reduced to a sticky consistency. Leave to cool and store in an airtight container for up to three months.

Gascoyne Place, 1 Sawclose, Bath; 01225 445854, www.gascoyneplace.co.uk

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