Just look at this list: lamb, lemon and anchovy meatballs, fragrant roast chicken with lemon and cream cheese, zesty almond tart. Joanna Simon’s recipes bring on an involuntary rumble of hunger. What is it that makes them so good? I think it’s the fact that they are never about novelty for novelty’s sake. Instead, they are her take on the classics: tried and tested flavour combinations so clearly made for each other that you want to dive straight in with your mouth open. I get recipe envy every time I look at them.

I’ve worked with Joanna for more than a decade, and as Style’s wine columnist, she knows exactly what gets the taste buds going. In food, as well as wine, that can be restraint as much as ostentation, knowing when to leave well alone rather than pile on the flavours. These recipes are delicious without trying too hard – and that makes them the sort of dishes every cook should have in their repertoire.

PULP ADDICTION: Other good things to do with lemons

— Stir lemon zest with mint, parsley or basil into a risotto just before serving.

— Lemon butter: work the zest of two lemons and 1 tbsp of the juice into 250g butter. Roll it into a fat sausage, wrap in clingfilm and freeze. Cut off slices and put them on cooked fish, poultry, meat or new potatoes, or melt them to make an instant sauce.

— Marinate meat or poultry in olive oil, lemon zest and juice, squashed garlic cloves, fresh herbs and seasoning in a large freezer bag in the fridge for 24 hours.

— Lemon roast chicken or guinea fowl: squash a lemon with the heel of your hand and pierce deeply with a skewer or carving fork about a dozen times. Put the whole lemon inside the bird with a handful of tarragon sprigs, dribble over any juice that has run and roast as usual.

— Preserved lemons: slit lemons vertically into four, leaving them joined at one end. Put 2 tsp sea salt into each and close them. Pack the fruit tightly into a wide-mouthed jar with a layer of salt at the bottom. Pour in enough lemon juice to cover the fruit, topping up with boiled but thoroughly cooled water if necessary. Seal tightly and refrigerate for at least 2 weeks. When you’re ready to use them, wash the salt off thoroughly before chopping. Use to flavour stews and north African dishes.

— Mix the zest of 2 lemons into 3-4 tbsp caster sugar. Leave for 30 minutes, then stir it into 250ml pasteurised ricotta to make a thick cream. Serve with soft fruit such as raspberries.

Today's recipes

Gremolata

Roast chicken with thyme and cream cheese

Lamb meatballs with lemon, anchovy and mint

Lemon, candied-peel and almond tart

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