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THE LESSON

Simon: Raymond whirls into the kitchen of Brasserie Blanc, Oxford, and doesn't stop moving or talking for the next hour, a small ball of obsessive perfectionism. “Don't be a chef,” he says. “It's a crazy life, always jumping from one place to another.” And as if to demonstrate, he jumps around the kitchen and from subject to subject for the next hour, telling me and the kitchen staff about Maman Blanc's wisdom, his travels in Japan . . . With a bit of gentle channelling, he gets to the onion chopping tuition - the importance of having at least one good (expensive) knife, and to always look at the structure of the onion before cutting. Always start cutting from the root end, but don't cut the root area itself - that way, the layers won't fall away as you cut. By taking care with the preparatory cuts, I find the final chopping easy. And I don't cut my hands this way either.

Raymond: A blunt knife makes your work harder, but it also bruises and spoils what you are cutting. Simon tended to chop downwards with the central part of the knife, but the secret is to go in with the point, and then slide through from tip to back in a curved motion.

THE FOLLOW-UP

Simon: I've been surprised how much more enjoyable chopping becomes if you instil something of Raymond's ritual and use a really good knife. I went out and bought a Wusthof, one of his recommendations. I could afford only a small one, but it's better than a big bad one.

Raymond: Simon has all the basics now. If he ever fancies a change of career, he can come and work in my kitchens.

THE DETAILS

Raymond Blanc runs a cooking school at Le Manoir Aux Quat' Saisons, day courses from £275. Visit: www.manoir.com

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