In Britain, we have come quite late to the possibilities of anchovies in all their forms, from fresh or marinated to barrel-salted, smoked or preserved in good oil. They have long been tainted with the image of something salty and pungent atop a pizza; over the past ten years or so, that has changed. But anchovies, like so many species of fish, are now endangered due to over-fishing, particularly around the Bay of Biscay area of the Cantabrian Sea, where some of the largest, most sought-after anchovies are found.

Which anchovies are OK to buy?

Look for anchovies that are sustainably fished, using small nets that skim the surface of the sea (so there is no by-catch or damage to the seabed), and keep the catch small, so that the fish don’t get crushed and damaged under a weighty haul. Brindisa, champion of great artisan Spanish produce, has become famous for its big, meaty anchovies packed in oil, from Conservas Ortiz in Spain, a family business that has been going for more than 100 years. Its anchovies are sustainably fished using a fine ring or cerco net. Charles Redfern, founder of the Fish4Ever label, prefers the slightly smaller anchovies from Sicily. “To my mind, Sicilian anchovies are more tender, perhaps because they don’t have to fight as hard as the anchovies in the Cantabrian Sea, as they come from saltier, warmer, calmer waters,” says Redfern. “The anchovies are fished using little local boats with small nets, and only fish of a certain size are taken. The encouraging thing is that, although anchovy stocks can collapse and disappear, provided you fish responsibly, they recover very quickly.” The fish are cleaned, packed into big vats of salt for several months, then washed, filleted and put into jars with cold-pressed organic olive oil. “It’s a very artisan process, with each stage up to the final filling of the jars being done by hand,” says Redfern.

Which are best, salted anchovies or ones in oil?

It is really down to preference. Anchovies packed in salt will be a deep pinky-red in colour and feel closer to fresh fish in texture, but are less widely available and need to be rinsed and filleted before you use them. Anchovies in oil are a pinky-brown colour. Good ones should be firm and feel smooth when you eat them. The quality of the oil is key. “The oil we use,” says Redfern, “is a deep- green, fruity, Sicilian one, which is a spectacular product in itself.”

Where to buy

Fish4Ever anchovies are available from good supermarkets (about £2.75 for 95g) or online from Graig Farm Organics (www.graigfarm.co.uk). Visit www.fish-4-ever.com for information on sustainable fishing. Brindisa (www.brindisa.com) sells Ortiz anchovies in olive oil at Borough Market (020-7407 1036) and in Clerkenwell (020-7713 1666), £3.85 for 47.5g, and Nardin smoked anchovies, £5.50 for 100g.

Reader query

Where can I buy fresh English asparagus online?

Secretts Farm sends out asparagus in attractive boxes: 450g, £9.99, or 900g, £16.99 (01483 520520; www.asparagus.me.uk).

If you have a food query, e-mail food.detective@thetimes.co.uk

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