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Like English wine, it has suffered from the taint of inauthenticity and has been the butt of condescending jokes. Now Japanese whisky has finally scotched all criticism by being voted the best in the world, ahead of its Highland rivals.
Yoichi 20 years old, distilled on the shores of the Sea of Japan, has become the first variety produced outside Scotland to win the coveted single malt award in an international competition run by Whisky Magazine, the main industry publication.
The whisky, distilled near the city of Sapporo on the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido, beat dozens of other varieties, including last year’s winner, Talisker 18 years old, produced on the Isle of Skye.
Suntory Hibiki, the brand advertised by the washed-up actor played by Bill Murray in the film Lost in Translation, scooped the award for the world’s best blended whisky. The historic double for Japanese whiskies has provoked consternation in Scotland, where whisky is as integral to a certain strand of national identity as bagpipes, haggis and the kilt.
Yoichi 20 years old, which sells for £150 a bottle, was praised by the judges for its “amazing mix of big smoke and sweet blackcurrant”, “explosive aroma” and “big, long and sweet finish”.
The decision to give the top prize to Yoichi followed a blind tasting of more than 200 of the world’s finest varieties by a panel of 16 of the world’s leading whisky experts.
The judges said Japanese distillers had succeeded in producing top Scotch thanks to the variable climate in Japan, which assists maturation and creates a purer whisky with a heightened aroma.
Traditional distilling apparatus such as coal-fired pot stills, used widely in Japan but rarely seen in Scotland, was also praised for producing a superior dram.
“Japanese whiskies performed magnificently and they are really starting to make waves,” said Rob Allanson, editor of Whisky Magazine.
Nikka, the company that produces Yoichi, and Suntory, the biggest spirits company in Japan, are making inroads into the British whisky market.
Tetsuji Hisamitsu, chief blender at the Yoichi distillery, said he was “very moved” by the award.
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What is happening in Scotland these days? Are the good Scots not drinking whiskey any more? This is a national and European tragedy, a real British tragedy. Japan to beat Scotland in whiskey.
Things are getting bad in Europe when the Japanese beat Scotland in whiskey too. Where is Mackintash?
Marcus, B. County .N.J., United States
I'm Japanese, and to be honest I prefer that Japan be no more than the strong second in whatever we do.
I hate it when Japanese people get cocky. It's just really, really annoying.
On the other hand, it's pretty embarrassing watching you other people cry sour grapes too.
Grow up. Move on.
rei miyasaka, Vancouver, BC, Canada
£150 a bottle?! Surely they should get minus points for that.
Johnny, Wherever,
Any dedicated drunkard of whisky will tell you that after half a bottle or so they could be drinking grandpa's dandelion wine and not know the difference. The advice is drink your favoured tipple for 6 glasses or so then switch to grandpa's burdock beverage.
Len, Perth,
Well done those involved! I have no issue with anyone who wants to contribute to making whisky perfect. Those who mention issues of race - have a good, hard look at yourselves as this is an unrelated topic.
Gordon Callan - with all due respect, you, sir, are an utter heathen!
Chris, Portsmouth,
If the variety produced in Scotland was really better, why didn't it win the blind tasting award ? It seems Japanese distillers are the ones maintaing the tradition (namely 'coal-fired pot stills') and not the Scots, so is it surprising (or undeserved) that they produce the better whisk(e)y ?
Roy, London,
Spent three weeks in Japan and it is a wonderful country. They are big whisky drinkers and are perfectionists so it was only a matter of time before they produced a whisky to beat Scotland. The Armenians will do the same with cognac and France just like Spain and other countries have done with wine.
DCH, Nottingham, UK
TO: Hiromi Ishida, Tokyo, Japan
Japan produces technological & industrial miracles
of which every Japanese citizen can be justly proud.
However, pride should never lead to arrogance.
Past arrogance has caused Japan great disgrace. More kindness to people/women will make Japan truly great.
Garth Strong, San Francisco, USA
"Think they won because of PC-ness. "
Alan, London, UK
What part of blind taste test do you not understand?
Matt, Hereford, UK
The article says, "Traditional distilling apparatus such as coal-fired pot stills, used widely in Japan but rarely seen in Scotland, was also praised for producing a superior dram. "
You know, we always immitate very well!
Yoshi, Manchester, England
For years the Japanese have been striving to produce first rate whisky. They have succeeded. For years California strived to produce first rate Champagne. They did so. Wonder why no one in the world tries to produce first rate sake except Japan?
Only the best products are copied it seems.
Max L. Cadenhead, Fort Lauderdale, , USA
If you are interested in Japanese whisky, there is a English language website all about it, called nonjatta.blogspot.com. It is written by a group of whisky fans and is pretty honest.
Japanese Whisky, Skipton, N. Yorks
I did not know that westerners were complaining about Japan's victory. That is what I would call building and then attacking a straw man. It does seem somewhat internally inconsistent to attack racism and then assert the superiority of one's own race. Just keep making good whiskey.
Ryan, Chapel Hill, USA
Why do some westerners complain about Japan's victory?
Is it because of racism or jealousy?
Why can't you take it as just one of many results of our superiority?
Hiromi Ishida, Tokyo, Japan
------
To be fair, the last line is exactly why people complain.
Andrew, Abu Dhabi,
Why do some westerners complain about Japan's victory?
Is it because of racism or jealousy?
Why can't you take it as just one of many results of our superiority?
Hiromi Ishida, Tokyo, Japan
First it was the great Bordeaux wines outdone by the California wines.
Now it is Scots whisky outdone by Japanese single malts.
It is the end of the world. I'm going to buy a bottle of real Scots whisky and drown my sorrow.
Bondy, Paris,
The temporal drag between image (perception) and reality can last a lifetime. Tend to drink imported Scotland labels largely because theyre cheaper than the local product. Japanese whisky tend to be big on the smoky taste, but not much else. Yoichi must represent a break through. Any given amount.
Andrew Milner, Karuizawa, Japan
It all tastes the same when you mix it with dry ginger ale, which is without a doubt the best way to drink Scotch. Try it, it's fantastic morning, noon or night.
Gordon Callan, Shanghai, China
I will still only drink Irish or Scottish whiskies. Those are the real whiskies because it has a heritage to it and not some industrial bred perfection. Think they won because of PC-ness.
Alan, London, UK
As a Balvenie collector, I was quite skeptical myself until I tried a bottle of Yoichi a few weeks ago that a friend brought back from a business trip in Japan.. In a nutshell, it truly is a stunning whiskey. Damned well done Nikka. Now release a 30 year and lets see how it really performs.
Bob, Socal,
There are many fine examples of Japanese whisky (This is the correct nomenclature, only the term 'Scotch' is protected). However, should I decide to spend this much on a whisky, I would go for a Scotch super-premium - Lagavulin 21yo natural cask strength. I do fancy trying the Yoichi though.
Tobi, Bournemouth, UK
I drank most of a bottle of Nikka whiskey about 15 years ago on a bender one night. It was fantastic whiskey. Hard as heck to find in the states it seems (maybe not now), but definitely worth it.
Doug, Richland, USA
I am big fan of Islay whiskys (like Lagavulin & Lapphroaig) but it won't prevent me to test Japan products. Nikka-whisky is veeery good and I am looking forward to meet Yoichi 20yo someday =P
Mikko Manninen, Tampere, Finland
Those people who are criticising it - have you actually tried it? You do realise that this award was based on a blind tasting of whisk(e)y experts?
Britain: we invent it then everybody else learns how to do it better. I eagerly await the next "best haggis award" going to Peru.
Peter Saffrey, Glasgow, UK
It is a shame like the Times cannot spell properly - Scotch Whisky is spelt thus and from outside of Scotland it is spelt Whiskey...... no doubt journalism from the Gordon Brown School of Edjumucashun.......
Toby Fella, Bucharest,
For ~$300 I can buy a lot of REAL Scotch. Let the Japenese stick to Sake, or will the Scots start brewing that.
acinosa, BC, Canada
There is no such think as Japanese whisky. Sexed-up, coffee-stained, viagratized sake is NOT whisky! If it's not Scotch...it's not whisky!
Garth STRONG, San Diego, USA
I am a 15 year old Single Barrel Balvenie man( when my son buys me a bottle) but would love to try Yoichi 20 year old.
As a drinker of Indian " whiskey" when in Delhi and unable to afford the proper stuff, I consider myself internationally qualified to recieve and comment on any sample - please.
robert everitt, wolverhampton,
whiskey was produced, not scotch; scotch is Scottish whisky. if this is difficult, just think Champagne/sparkling wine. Yanks seem to get this, pity Stuart MacDonald can't, even though he's putatively Scottish himself.
remember: if it's not Scottish it's crap! (no sour grapes, but maybe a wee bit of sour barley).
col, seattle,
I've been warning Scots of this for several years. Complacency; Singapore, 1942. But 20-year Yoichi, £150 (¥30,000), in the words of Ali-G: "If you paid that much you wuz ripped off."
Andrew Milner, Karuizawa, Japan