It's official: the British asparagus season has arrived. Too much rain means it's a couple of weeks late, but you wouldn't know it from the proliferation of asparagus in the shops.

The earliest, naturally produced, spears come from Cornwall, cropping three or four weeks before the traditional start at the end of April, but the majority is grown in the Vale of Evesham. I mention this because I've noticed asparagus on sale at the supermarket all year round. According to the Asparagus Growers' Association, sales have gone up by 60 per cent in the past three years, fed by an extended British growing season that relies on underground heating and polytunnels, and foreign imports. What used to be a luxury, available only during its brief season, is now as familiar as carrots and cauliflower, and its low-calorie, quick-cook, nutrient-high profile helps it to qualify as a superfood.

The latest newcomer to the asparagus collection is white, grown underground exclusively for Marks & Spencer in Herefordshire. The curious pale spears have obvious novelty value but its mild flavour and noticeably juicy, crisp texture is reminiscent of sea kale, another forced, but still rare, seasonal British veg. It's good salad-style and delicious given the bruschetta treatment with cream cheese and Parma or Serrano ham.

A few asparagus spears are a time-honoured way of livening up peas to serve with grilled fish and hollandaise but the juicy texture of white asparagus works well with an essentially soft mixture of peas, spinach, spring onion and potato, in a thick leafy noodle meal-in-a-bowl soup.

To get the real point of asparagus, it should be cooked and eaten as quickly after harvesting as possible. As we head into the short British season, think about that when you see it on sale at your local farmers' market and consider combining a day out with picking your own. You can find your nearest pick-your-own or farm shop on www.british-asparagus.co.uk. Or make a note in your diary to visit the Cornish Asparagus Festival in Falmouth (www.penmeremanorhotel.co.uk) on May 18, or the famous asparagus auction at the Fleece Inn, Bretforton in the Vale of Evesham on May 25 (part of the English Asparagus Festival).

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