Tony Turnbull
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For many years, come mid-afternoon, I found myself to be a social pariah. While friends huddled collegiately around a teapot and shared a few moments of communality, I, an inveterate teabag user, would slink quietly back to my desk with my selfish mug for one. So set was I in my ways that I even started to choose my brand by which bags floated best so were easiest to lift out with fingers. It was a sad, sad existence.
Then one day I visited Teasmith, John Kennedy's teashop in Spitalfields, East London, and realised just what I was missing. Here was a man who had dedicated most of his waking hours to tea making. After two years in Hong Kong, training with his own tea-master, he can do all that yin and yang and “every tea journey begins with a single leaf” stuff, but he didn't believe in ceremony for ceremony's sake. “You certainly don't have to get in to a Zen state to appreciate it. Those more ‘philosophical' aspects can end up being a barrier to people's enjoyment,” he says.
But sitting in the calm of his shop, watching as he set about the strange alchemy that turns a few dried leaves into the life-enhancing brew that the perfect cup of tea represents, I realised that the process could never be replicated by dropping a few bags into a mug. For 90 per cent of the enjoyment of tea drinking is in the ceremony attached to it. It's in the warming of the pot, choosing the favourite china cup - above all it's in the anticipation - and bags just give you too instant a hit. When you've put in a bit more work, the reward becomes all the more satisfying.
According to Kennedy, the perfect cup starts not with the tea, but with the pot - porcelain will not produce as soft a tea as Chinese clay, which is porous and allows the tea to breathe. Then there is the water, the temperature of which should vary for different teas: 55C for Japanese green teas, for example, 90-plus for oolongs. Then there is the way you pour it. “The idea is to use the shape of the pot to get the water circulating. That way you avoid temperature gradients, which could mean your tea infusing at a hotter temperature at the top and cooler at the bottom.”
Then of course there is the tea itself. You can get perfectly good tea that comes in bags, it is true - Twinings, for example, sells loose and bagged, and both come from the same suppliers - but this is not always the case. It's like buying tomatoes on the vine - they are a guarantee of a certain quality because any faults become more visible.
It may sound a bit over the top but you really can taste the results. And who ever heard of a sludgy teabag bringing the news you were going to meet a tall dark stranger.
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Picked some Sabah Tea in Borneo, to go with the Boh Tea from the Cameron Highlands. Now that's tea. We have empty tea bags here, so you can fill your own. "Another cup of tea?" "No thanks, I'm just brushed my teeth." Strong? Drops a migraine headache in its tracks.
Andrew Milner, Karuizawa, Japan
I was a big tea drinker until I discovered the coffee of France and Belgium.
Neil, Gloucestershire, England
I am a loose tea drinker - visitors say two things however -
1.) What a lot of trouble - can't be bothered with all that.
2.) You do make a nice cup of tea!
Jonathan Gompertz, Worcester, England
Back in England for the summer from Moscow and wondering where to find half decent, and preferably extremely good Chinese tea which I can find in every supermarket over there. Even Waitrose can only rise to an overly perfumed Lapsang Soushong. Any ideas?
Michael Maltby, sidmouth, UK
Several good reasons for buying loose, it is far more economical, the discovery of unknown teas, the unfurling leaves, yes absolutely the ceremony, but especially when shared amongst a group of like minded souls. Real solace at work by simple magic know what I mean ?
Terry Conway, Stansted Mountfitchet, Essex
I find that tea bags stain the cups , mugs , what does this?. dos it do that to your stomach?. I now only taks loose tea.
jim, donegal, ireland
I'm a Yank. I never drank tea 'til I tried the coffee in England. In time I grew to like tea & even drink back here in the good old U.S. of A. Don't care for the teabags though.
A.B., Huntington, USA
So sad most Brits only know tea as that abomination of liquid oozed from teabag of dust. People say they dislike tea - that's not tea its bitter poison. Let me make you real tea. Supermarkets will not give u the option much longer- look at the shrinking shelf space. Anyone want to join my campaign?
J Knight, London, United Kingdom
This is a lot of pretentious nonsense. What's wrong with tea bag tea is that it tastes thin and bitty - I don't know why. It may be the flavour of the bag, or it may be because the leaves are so small.
Also, with proper tea, you choose how much you put in the pot and it mashes better.
Dru Brooke-Taylor, Bristol,
living in japan i drink green tea. the better ones come loose and in the super market just next to the loose teas are the empty tea bags to put the leaves in!. mug size and teapot size. i just wish they sold them in england when i lived there.
nolan, okazaki, japan
Agree. I am an avid tea drinker and the way I do it is to pour a bit of lose tea at the bottom of the cup and the hot water on top of it. After a while, most of the tea will fall to the bottom - specially if you stir it . It yields a delicious flavour and you can - and should! - use that tea again.
Inés, Oxford, UK
David Mickelson, Vancouver, Washington, United States, you are right, there are exellent tea bags and there is horibble loose tea. You should look at the size of the leaves, the bigger, the better. Small, crushed or powdery tea leaves are horrible (to my humble opinion)
Delphine Verhaeghe, Largs,
"porcelain will not produce as soft a tea as Chinese clay, which is porous and allows the tea to breathe". If the tea needs to 'breathe' it can use its surface in contact with the air not through microscopic pores in the container. Same with opening red wine for a short time before use, pointless.
William Garrett, Harrow,
Tea Bags = lazy = instant = sandwiches at your desk = a total failure & a capitulation to the concept that lunch etc... = time, that could be sold, being lost.
As for mugs. The very name describes the people who use them.
MR M STANISTREET, NERAC, FRANCE 47
I am a tea drinker who sometimes also enjoy a good cup of coffee.
I only drink tea from a pot because I find that the material of the tea bags leave it's own taste to the brew.
Maybe it is just my imagination.
Torun Chakrabarty, Hong Kong, China
I'm a dedicated loose tea brewer and always will be. Bang on when you say that most of the enjoyment is with the ceremony. Guests always tell me they can tell the difference with loose versus bagged, and I've converted several of them. Bags will never cross my threshold as long as I'm around. Cheers
Rick, Montreal,
I am English and have always hated hot tea.
It didn't matter if it was made from a teabag or loose.
However I have found that Iced Tea with lemon is good on a hot summer afternoon.
P. Brooks, Palm Bay, Florida USA
I am also an American who loves drinking tea. I picked up the habit in England. But I've always wondered what is inherently inferior about tea bags? They are not all low quality tea--you can spend a bit more and get high quality tea that happens to be in a bag for convenience.
David Mickelson, Vancouver, Washington, United States
I'm a big tea drinker and I love the way the British and other countries has preserved the traditions of tea drinking. I would love for America to adopt the idea of Garden Parties so we can work tea into the occasion.
Richard, Calumet City, USA