Look out for: long strands with a firm texture that doesn’t turn to mush when handled. You want a natural, warm wheat flavour rather than anything floury.  

Guest panellist: Theo Randall, head chef at the InterContinental, London W1 (020-7318 8747).

THE TOP THREE

Tesco Finest Spaghetti, 1kg, £2.59.

Fantastic. This is nice and long, and has a lovely clean, wholesome flavour. There’s a hint of almost nutty sweetness. You’d happily eat a plate of this with just a little oil and seasoning.

Napolina Spaghetti, 1kg, £2.55.

Holds its bite perfectly, and a lively consistency and earthy taste make this effortlessly eatable. Again, very hard to fault.

De Cecco Spaghetti, 500g, £1.49.

A classic spaghetti that’s coarse and robust, with what tastes like a good durum wheat content. Will complement a rich, meaty sauce especially well.

AND THE REST…

Co-Op Italian Spaghetti, 500g, 52p.

Obviously quite a commercial brand, this. Will fill a hole, but there’s no distinctive flavour despite its darker colour.

Sainsbury’s So Organic Spaghetti, 500g, 79p.

There’s a mustiness to the wheat flavour with this that reminds you of the dust at the bottom of an old cereal box. A sticky, gluey consistency doesn’t help either.

Asda Spaghetti, 500g, 78p.

This breaks up far too easily, and it’s soft and slightly slimy. You get a cheap, floury flavour that’s just on the wrong side of bland.

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