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A strange thing happened yesterday morning: I found myself in wholehearted agreement with Gordon Brown. His comments urging British consumers to stop wasting food came after a new Cabinet Office report discovered that British families are each throwing away food worth an average of £420 a year. Put it all together and that's more than £1 billion worth of groceries going uneaten annually. Instead, it's left to fester in wheelie-bins and then landfill, preying on our consciences and draining our bank accounts in the process.
This report does not tell us anything we did not already know - that a great many people are throwing away an awful lot of food. It is commonplace these days, and doesn't seem abnormal; we just think, “Oh well, out of date, I'll chuck it.” And we do, with only the vaguest flicker of regret. What these figures will do, I hope, is jolt some people into thinking again about the way in which they shop, cook and eat. Not necessarily out of environmental considerations, but out of something far more compelling: the desire to save money. Can you really afford to throw away £420 a year?
Housekeeping is the art of provisioning your household and serving up interesting and economical meals for a family. And it is a skill in decline. If you're not in the habit of it, planning a weekly shop that covers all the bases but doesn't leave you with a huge surplus can seem like too much bother.
It feels archaic, a burdensome duty that can be sidestepped easily enough by purchasing ready meals or chucking some chicken breasts into your basket on the way home. Look in any city centre supermarket during the evening: it will be filled with young professionals queueing to buy obvious ingredients for that night's meal. Eighteen months ago, I would have been in the queue too: I was a kitchen cynic.
I hated the responsibility of shopping and cooking for my husband and our two children. It was unwanted drudgery. So I went on auto-pilot, buying similar food every week. If we wanted anything special that meant another trip to the shops, where I'd buy in a frenzy to compensate for not having really thought through what I was doing. Result? More wasted food, higher grocery bills. I'd be spending up to £100 a week on food shopping, and throwing out a fair proportion of that food at the end of the week.
Now, though, I spend between £50 and £60 a week, my family eats better, more interesting food, there is no waste and - best of all - we've become much more hospitable, inviting friends around for dinner much more often than we did before. The transformation happened because I have been co-writing a book with chef Rosie Sykes and food expert Polly Russell, acting as a glorified guinea-pig.
Between us we have devised The Kitchen Revolution, a cookbook with planners, shopping lists and recipes for every day of the year. It relies heavily on creative use of leftovers, using store-cupboard foods, and cooking in bulk so that you can have home-made ready meals tucked away in your freezer for those nights when you lack the will to set-to with your oven. The book is extremely detailed - it was written for numpties like me - but researching it has taught me a few wider housekeeping rules that have completely changed my relationship with food and cooking.
Rule 1: Learn to love your leftovers
Don't see them as negative, curled-up reminders of food you didn't get around
to eating. Leftovers are treasures that make your life easier and save you
money, time and energy. Because they have already been cooked, half the work
has been done for you. All you need is a little creative forethought. You
have to interpret them into other dishes. For example, below are three
recipes. First there is what we call a “big meal from scratch”, a rather
delicious roast leg of lamb with braised lentils and carrots. Then there are
two other recipes, both of which incorporate leftovers from the first. Take
the carrots: these look limp and unprepossessing, but add the leftover roast
garlic from the lamb to give them a new, delicious richness. Combined with
some peas from the freezer and other ingredients, they become the heart of
the second dish. And you don't have to worry about starting a new meal, or
even shopping for a new meal, from scratch. So much of our food is
pre-packaged that some people seem to recoil from the idea of eating rough
and ready old leftovers. Well, don't: using them is a revelation.
Rule 2: Buy seasonal foods
I always thought foodies were just being precious when banging on about this,
but I have to admit that they were right: seasonal food tastes better and
it's cheap. Look up a list of seasonal foods and try buying some of July's
entries - you'll see the difference too.
Rule 3: Know, and use, what's in your store cupboard and your freezer
I make sure I have the ingredients of my favourite “larder feast”, as I call
store-cupboard dishes, in stock at all times. It's a lentil and chorizo stew
that may not sound entirely gourmet, but is delicious and takes about 25
minutes to put together. Now we can invite friends around off the cuff and
there is no need any more to do a last-minute shop. Best of all, I'm basing
my meal on 29p cans of lentils, not extraordinarily priced chicken breasts.
Reading them back now these three bits of advice sound almost laughably simple. However, before I made them part of my domestic life I was one of Gordon Brown's wasters, and I lacked the knowledge to change.
Nobody wants to be told what to do all the time. Certainly our book isn't supposed to be dictatorial - we want people to take the ideas and recipes and adapt them as they wish. And we all have nights when there's nothing better than the sound of the pizza man's moped pulling up in front of your door.
But there is a decadence, even a wantonness, about the way so many of us feed ourselves now that is clearly unsustainable. Remember, £1 billion worth of food a year, thrown away uneaten. The only people that's good for are supermarket shareholders.
Embracing leftovers, seasonal food, and store-cupboard cooking - the basic precepts of good, old-fashioned home economics - will take some of that money back from their income streams and return it to your pocket. Then you can spend it on something really wanton.
The next step: cook one - get two free
Forget about “buy one, get one free”: as Gordon Brown would tell you, that
just leads to waste, and throwing out food at the end of the week. This way
you can treat the whole family to delicious roast leg of lamb with new
season's garlic, braised lentils and glazed baby carrots - and with the
leftovers, you can create two more tasty dishes on succeeding days. In this
recipe lamb is roasted slowly on a bed of fresh garlic until both have
become meltingly soft and sweet. Garlic fresh from the ground is known as
wet garlic and has a milder flavour than when the bulb is dried. It looks
similar to ordinary garlic except that the bulb tends to be bigger and the
skins are softer and slightly moist; they often have a faint purple tint. In
this recipe the bulbs are roasted whole until soft. The cooked garlic pulp
can then be squeezed out of the cloves by everyone as they eat.
Roast leg of lamb with braised lentils and glazed baby carrots
Spiced lentil salad with hoummos and lamb
Braised summer vegetables with pancetta and sherry
From The Kitchen Revolution, by Rosie Sykes, Polly Russell and Zoe Heron, Ebury Press, £25. Available from Times BooksFirst for £22.50, free p&p. timesonline.co.uk/booksfirst
For more recipes and advice on saving time, effort and money in the kitchen go to thekitchenrevolution.co.uk
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It is common sense - I always do this. I do not know where you shop though, as even seasonable veg is not cheap, and I cannot find a can of lentils for 29 pence and I'm vegan! Please let me know where you shop!
Chris, shrewsbury,
Never follow recipies,as that usually involves buying ingredients in larger quantities than is needed.
Never let a man do the shopping. I landed up with 5 kilos of root ginger and 50 dabs once, but I used the lot, (with difficulty) as I have never thrown any food away!
anne, salisbury,
Firstly, shouldn't Mr Brown tell us, the tax payer, how much food is wasted in The Commons canteen. If all these greedy MPs could eat was salad, how much money could the U.K. household save on indirect food bills?
James Taylor, Faversham, U.K.
People are too hung up on "use-by" dates. Try looking, tasting, smelling. Most foods are perfectly wholesome for days beyond their date. These dates are are a ploy by supermarkets to encourage people to throw out and buy more and swell their profits.
Jennifer, Malaga, Spain
I cook large stews and curries which I then freeze. Stews don't require expensive cuts of meat, and freezing reduces the amount of time spent slaving over the stove significantly.
Tim, Auckland, New Zealand
We may waste food but some one wants to weigh up the food leftover from MP's banquets. They is enough to feed a family of 4 for 1 month and I don't mean with beans on toast on the menu.
They need to take care of their own kitchens.
Les, Sheffield, UK
Better still. Don't have leftovers. Dish it up and eat it all up. Clear your plate.
The fashion for emaciated thinness has a lot to answer for.
cam, essex,
Learn to love stale leftovers? I look forward to your recipe for Woolton pie and snoek snacks. Not
julia, london,
For the last few weeks I have also been menu planning and writing lists prompted by the cost of my supermarket spiralling upwards. I am saving £50-60 a week on the shop for a family of four. That is a tidy saving! It is much easier knowing what you are cooking and shopping for each day.
Ann-Marie, Harrogate, uk
why are the big supermarkets not being pulled up for wasting so many thousand tons of food???
the produce has to meet a certain standard eg if a cabage is not the right shape!! it gets thrown.. surley supermarkets have a big impact on food waste.
Bungle, UK, Cambs
When can we expect food rationing? Such is Labour's love with the past.
steve tea, manchester, cheshire
Now I know Brown has lost the plot he should be finding ways of reducing the Tax burden not rifling our bins
ARWascoe, Dundee,
The use of leftovers in modern receipes needs promotion. It was pleasing to see the modernity of those chosen by Zoe. I fear that most people would associate leftovers with receipes leftover from prior decades and so be unethusiastic.
Yvonne, Whitley Bay,
Typical irresponsible argument from Brown and his cronies. Only the rich waste food. The rest of us are already living on scraps and garbage.
Its long past time this unelected prime minister stepped down.
Henry Adams, Manchester, UK
Yes - most of us could cut back on our food waste and yes this should be encouraged but to imply that household food waste is a significant contributory factor in the price hike is absolute rubbish. The waste from the G8 food summit alone would have fed a household for weeks if not months!!
Jerry, Norwich,
My 1920's copy of Mrs Beatons Home Cooking laments the loss the skill of "using up" so it seems as though there is little change really. Some of the recipies for reusing last night's dinner found in old cookbooks are simply wonderful and well worth the effort.
Becky, Truro,
I like the sound of the lentil and chorizo stew. What's the recipe?
Jenny, London,
I think we need to get back to ground roots and there should be an emphasis at school to learn Home Economics. This was a subject I took at school , it wasn't just a school subject but life lessons from cooking to organising a budget for the home to fitting a plug to a kettle.
Sandy , Chandlersford,
It seems things have gone full circle. I remember when I was a kid my Mother always stuck to a list. Everything was bought in individual shops and we certainly had no waste. We didn't have the large supermarkets and the huge variety there is now - but we ate well and survived.
pauline, ashford kent,
The biggest stumbling block to using leftovers these days is an awful lot of people have never been taught, or have never needed to know how to cook anything
jeff, Stafford, UK
My gran always did a Sunday roast & you could guarantee that Mon there'd be roast meat sliced up, left veg added + a few fresh & left over gravy (she always made enough) heat thoroughly, served with mash (real) potatos. I think of her every time I do it myself.Bring back domestic science in schools.
Susan, Dallas, USA
Perhaps the first step towards not wasting food is to make lists - lists of what meals you intend to cook, and from that a shopping list. I always find it surprising how many people you see wandering around a supermarket putting things at random into their basket. No wonder there is so much waste.
Sarah Lord, Macclesfield, UK